Acura CSX. Manual — part 14
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4-5
Circuit Diagram
G401
BLK
ORN
(M/T model)
BLK
BLU/WHT
G101
ORN
RED
No. 1 (100 A)
IGNITION SWITCH
BAT
ST
No. 2 (50 A)
BATTERY
UNDER-HOOD FUSE/RELAY BOX
BLK/WHT
YEL
STARTER
CUT
RELAY
UNDER-DASH
FUSE/RELAY
BOX
TRANSMISSION
RANGE SWITCH
(ON: P, N position)
CLUTCH
INTERLOCK
SWITCH
(ON: Pedal
pressed)
ST HOT in
START (III)
H1
3
C1
1
1
2
F29
STARTER
S
B
WHT
G9
19
20
C101
1
C102
WHT
(A/T model)
7
1
1
4
2
3
#
@
−
−
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−
−
−
−
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Special Tools Required
YES
NO
YES
NO
YES
NO
4-6
Starting System
Starter System Circuit Troubleshooting
OTC3131
Alternator, Regulator, Battery & Starter tester OTC3131
Available through the Honda Canada Inc. Technical
Tools Department; FAX
866-398-8665/e-mail:
ch_technicaltools
ch.honda.com
NOTE:
• Air temperature must be within 15
38 °C
(59
100 °F) during this procedure.
• After this inspection, you must reset the engine
control module (ECM)/powertrain control module
(PCM). Otherwise, the ECM/PCM will continue to stop
the fuel injectors from operating.
• The battery must be in good condition and fully
charged.
1. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery & starter
tester (OTC3131) to the battery as shown.
NOTE: The probe is not used for battery testing.
2. Do the BATTERY TEST.
The battery is OK. Go to step 3.
If the display indicates BAD BATTERY, replace
the battery, then retest. If the display indicates
CHARGE & RETEST, charge the battery, then retest.
3. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the
data link connector (DLC) (see step 2 on page 11-3).
4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle
and the ECM/PCM. If it does not communicate,
troubleshoot the DLC circuit (see page 11-204).
6. Select ALL INJECTORS STOP in the PGM-FI
INSPECTION menu with the HDS.
7. Set the parking brake, then with the shift lever in N
or P (A/T model) or the clutch pedal pressed (M/T
model), turn the ignition switch to START (III).
The starting system is OK. Go to step 14.
Go to step 8.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
9. Check the electrical connections at the battery, the
negative battery cable to the body, the engine
ground cables, and the starter for looseness and
corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again.
Repairing the loose connection corrected the
problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 14.
Based on the following symptoms, take the
appropriate action:
• If the starter does not crank the engine at all, go
to step 10.
• If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too
slowly, go to step 12.
• If the starter does not disengage from the
flywheel ring gear (M/T model) or torque
converter ring gear (A/T model) when you
release the key, replace the starter, or remove
and disassemble it, and check for the following:
– Starter solenoid and switch malfunction
– Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning
clutch
Does the display indicate GOOD or GOOD, LOW
CHARGE?
Does the star ter cr ank the engine nor mally?
Does the star ter cr ank the engine nor mally?
02
−
−
YES
NO
4-7
A
B
10. Make sure the shift lever is in N or P (A/T model) or
neutral (M/T model), then disconnect the engine
wire harness 1P connector (A). Connect a jumper
wire from the battery positive terminal to the
starter subharness 1P connector (B).
Go to step 11.
Check the starter subharness. If the wire is OK,
remove the starter (see page 4-10), then repair or
replace (see page 4-13) it as necessary.
11. Check the following items in the order listed until
you find the problem circuit:
NOTE: After the open circuit or high resistance in
the circuit is found and repaired, go to step 14.
• Check for an open or short in the YEL wire and
connectors between the driver’s under-dash
fuse/relay box and the ignition switch.
• Check for an open or short in the RED wire and
connectors between the under-dash fuse/relay
box and the engine wire harness 1P connector.
• Check for an open or short in the ORN wire and
connectors between the under-dash fuse/relay
box and the clutch interlock switch (M/T model).
• Check for an open or short in the ORN wire, BLU/
WHT wire and connectors between the under-
dash fuse/relay box and the transmission range
switch (A/T model).
• Check for poor ground at G401 (M/T model) or
G101 (A/T model).
• Check for a faulty ignition switch (see page 22-72).
• Check for a faulty clutch interlock switch (M/T
model) (see page 4-8).
• Check for a faulty transmission range switch (A/T
model) (see page 14-265).
• Check for a faulty starter cut relay (see page
22-70).
Does the star ter cr ank the engine?
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01
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−
YES
NO
M/T model
4-8
4-8
Starting System
Clutch Interlock Switch Test
OTC3131
A
B
Terminal
Position
Clutch Interlock Switch
Clutch Interlock Switch
2
1
(PRESSED)
(RELEASED)
12. Do the STARTING TEST with the alternator,
regulator battery & starter tester.
NOTE: The probe is used for starter testing.
Go to step 13.
Replace the starter, or remove and
disassemble it, and check for these problems:
• Drag in the starter armature
• Short in the armature winding
• Excessive drag in the engine
• Open circuit in starter armature commutator
segments
• Excessively worn starter brushes
• Open circuit in the starter brushes
• Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
• Faulty overrunning clutch
13. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and
the flywheel ring gear (M/T model) or the torque
converter ring gear (A/T model) for damage.
Replace any damaged parts.
14. Select ECM/PCM reset (see page 11-4) in the PGM-
FI INSPECTION menu to cancel ALL INJECTORS
STOP with the HDS.
1. Disconnect the clutch interlock switch 2P connector
(A).
2. Remove the clutch interlock switch (B).
3. Check for continuity between the terminals
according to the table.
• If the continuity is not as specified, replace the
clutch interlock switch (see page 12-8).
• If OK, install the clutch interlock switch, and
adjust the pedal height (see page 12-8).
Terminal side of
male terminals
Does the display indicate cr anking voltage gr eater
than or equal to 8.5 V and the cur r ent dr aw less
than or equal to 380 A?
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