Dodge Ram Truck 1500-2500-3500. Manual — part 1377

3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If

the oil leak is found and identified, repair as necessary.

4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat inspec-

tion.

5. If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test method

as follows:

1. Disconnect the PCV hoses at the cylinder head covers and plug or cap the outlet on the covers.

2. Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube.

CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.

3. Gradually apply air pressure from 6.89 kPa (1 psi) to 17.23 kPa (2.5 psi) maximum while applying soapy water
at the suspected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure that provides the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per service manual procedures.

4. If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.

6. If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply. Remove the air hose, all plugs, and caps. Connect the PCV

hoses. Proceed to next step.

7. Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds approx-

imately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.

NOTE: If oil leakage is observed at the dipstick tube to oil pan location; remove the tube, clean and reseal
using Mopar

T

Stud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube applications only), and for O-ring style tubes, remove

tube and replace the O-ring seal.

INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS

Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the engine, a more
involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followed to help pinpoint the source of the leak.

If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Raise the vehicle.

3. Remove clutch housing inspection cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light to check

for the oil leak. If a leak is present in this area, remove transmission for further inspection.

a. Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaft damage.

b. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup plug or rear

crankshaft seal retainer gasket leak. See proper repair procedures for these items.

4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase as previously described.

CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).

5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is detected between

the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged.
The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that can be polished out with emery cloth.

CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.

6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled.

7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified, replace component(s) as

necessary.

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ENGINE - 8.3L - SERVICE INFORMATION

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STANDARD PROCEDURE

ENGINE CORE AND OIL GALLERY PLUGS

Using a blunt tool such as a drift (4) and a hammer,
strike the bottom edge of the cup plug. With the cup
plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers (2) or other suit-
able tool and remove plug (5).

CAUTION: Do not drive cup plug into the casting
as restricted cooling can result and cause serious
engine problems.

Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylinder
block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer. Lightly
coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopar

T

Stud and

Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug is cleaned
of all oil or grease. Using proper drive plug, drive plug
into hole so that the sharp edge of the plug is at least
0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the lead-in chamfer.

It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant.
The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle placed in service immediately.

FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS AND SEALERS

There are numerous places where form-in-place gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken when apply-
ing form-in-place gaskets to assure obtaining the desired results. Do not use form-in-place gasket material
unless specified. Bead size, continuity, and location are of great importance. Too thin a bead can result in leakage
while too much can result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the
proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.

There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket materials that are used in the engine area. Mopar

T

Engine RTV

GEN II, Mopar

T

ATF-RTV, and Mopar

T

Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different properties and can not

be used in place of the other.

MOPAR

T

ENGINE RTV GEN II

Mopar

T

Engine RTV GEN II is used to seal components exposed to engine oil. This material is a specially designed

black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties when exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the
air causes the material to cure. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After
one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.

MOPAR

T

ATF RTV

Mopar

T

ATF RTV is a specifically designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties

to seal components exposed to automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and moisture. This material is avail-
able in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before use.

MOPAR

T

GASKET MAKER

Mopar

T

Gasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket material. The material cures in the absence of air when

squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic material is for
use between two machined surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.

MOPAR

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BED PLATE SEALANT

Mopar

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Bed Plate Sealant is a unique (green-in-color) anaerobic type gasket material that is specially made to seal

the area between the bedplate and cylinder block without disturbing the bearing clearance or alignment of these
components. The material cures slowly in the absence of air when torqued between two metallic surfaces, and will
rapidly cure when heat is applied.

MOPAR

T

GASKET SEALANT

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ENGINE - 8.3L - SERVICE INFORMATION

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Mopar

T

Gasket Sealant is a slow drying, permanently soft sealer. This material is recommended for sealing

threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and machined parts
under all temperatures. This material is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS) cylinder head gaskets. This
material also will prevent corrosion. Mopar

T

Gasket Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4 oz./16 oz. can

w/applicator.

FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER APPLICATION

Mopar

T

Gasket Maker material should be applied sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant to one

gasket surface. Be certain the material surrounds each mounting hole. Excess material can easily be wiped off.
Components should be torqued in place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel is recommended during
assembly to prevent smearing material off the location.

Mopar

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Engine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket material should be applied in a continuous bead approximately 3

mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a 3.17 mm or 6.35 mm (1/8 in.
or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant may be removed with a shop
towel. Components should be torqued in place while the sealant is still wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The
usage of a locating dowel is recommended during assembly to prevent smearing material off the location.

Mopar

T

Gasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely over both

surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a can w/applicator can
be brushed on evenly over the sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be used on engines with multi-
layer steel gaskets.

ENGINE GASKET SURFACE PREPARATION

To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface prep-
aration must be performed, especially with the use of
aluminum engine components and multi-layer steel
cylinder head gaskets.

Never use the following to clean gasket surfaces:

•

Metal scraper

•

Abrasive pad or paper to clean cylinder block
and head

•

High speed power tool with an abrasive pad or a
wire brush (1)

NOTE:

Multi-Layer

Steel

(MLS)

head

gaskets

require a scratch free sealing surface.

Only use the following for cleaning gasket surfaces:

•

Solvent

or

a

commercially

available

gasket

remover

•

Plastic or wood scraper (3)

•

Drill motor with 3M Roloc™ Bristle Disc (white or yellow) (2)

CAUTION: Excessive pressure or high RPM (beyond the recommended speed), can damage the sealing sur-
faces. The mild (white, 120 grit) bristle disc is recommended. If necessary, the medium (yellow, 80 grit) bris-
tle disc may be used on cast iron surfaces with care.

HYDROSTATIC LOCKED ENGINE

When an engine is suspected to be hydrostatically locked, regardless of what caused the problem, the following
steps should be used.

CAUTION: DO NOT use starter motor to rotate the engine, severe damage may occur.

1. Inspect air cleaner, induction system and intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of foreign material.

2. Remove negative battery cable.

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ENGINE - 8.3L - SERVICE INFORMATION

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3. Place a shop towel around the spark plugs when removing them from the engine. This will catch any fluid that

may possibly be in the cylinder under pressure.

4. With all spark plugs removed, rotate engine crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket.

5. Identify the fluid in the cylinder(s) (i.e., coolant, fuel, oil or other).

6. Make sure all fluid has been removed from the cylinders. Inspect engine for damage (i.e., connecting rods, pis-

tons, valves, etc.)

7. Repair engine or components as necessary to prevent this problem from re-occurring.

CAUTION: Squirt approximately one teaspoon of oil into the cylinders, rotate engine to lubricate the cylin-
der walls to prevent damage on restart.

8. Install new spark plugs.

9. Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.

10. Fill engine with specified amount of approved oil and install new oil filter.

11. Connect negative battery cable.

12. Start engine and check for any leaks.

REMOVAL - ENGINE ASSEMBLY

1. Perform fuel pressure release procedure (Refer to

14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).

2.

Disconnect negative battery cable.

3. Disconnect throttle body air inlet duct, remove air

cleaner cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR INTAKE
SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER ELEMENT - REMOVAL).

4. Raise and support the vehicle.

5. Remove the lower engine shield.

6. Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-

GINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRAINING
COOLING SYSTEM).

7. Paint mark and remove the driveshaft (Refer to 3 -

DIFFERENTIAL

&

DRIVELINE/PROPELLER

SHAFT/PROPELLER SHAFT - REMOVAL).

8. Remove the transmission (Refer to 21 - TRANS-

MISSION/TRANSAXLE/MANUAL - REMOVAL).

9. Remove the starter (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/

STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL).

10. Disconnect the front exhaust pipe flange to

exhaust manifold fasteners (1 and 2).

11. Disconnect the hydraulic cooling fan lines and capture any spillage (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR

FAN - REMOVAL).

12. Drain engine oil and remove the oil filter.

13. Separate the air conditioning hose from the fan shroud.

14. Disconnect the lower radiator hose.

15. Disconnect the power steering line support bracket at the lower left of the radiator.

16. Loosen both engine mount through bolts.

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ENGINE - 8.3L - SERVICE INFORMATION

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