Harley Davidson FXD DYNA 2019. Service repair Manual and Wiring Diagrams — page 4

CHAPTER TWO

eration by the pump lever. This movement causes

the diaphragm to force fuel from the pump cham-

ber, through a check valve and into the carburetor

ACCELERATOR

venturi. The diaphragm spring returns the dia-

PUMP SYSTEM

phragm to the uncompressed position, which allows

the chamber to refill with fuel.

If the engine hesitates during sudden accelera-

tion, check the operation of the accelerator pump

Throttle rod

system. Carburetor Service is covered in Chapter

Pump

Seven.

Throttle

lever

shaft

Vacuum-operated fuel

Spring

Venturi

shutoff valve testing

Pump

All models are equipped with a vacuum-operated

nozzle

fuel shutoff valve. A vacuum hose is connected be-

tween the fuel shutoff valve diaphragm and the car-

buretor. When the engine is running, vacuum is

applied to the fuel shutoff valve through this hose.

For fuel to flow through the fuel valve, a vacuum

Check

must be present with the fuel shutoff valve handle in

valve

the ON or RES position. The following steps trou-

Diaphragm

bleshoot the fuel shutoff valve by applying a vac-

uum from a separate source. A Miti-Vac

Pump

hand-operated vacuum pump (Figure 47), gas can,

rod

drain hose that is long enough to reach from the fuel

Spring

valve to the gas can, and hose clamp are required for

this test.

WARNING

Gasoline is highly flammable. When

servicing the fuel system in the follow-

Disconnect the vacuum hose (Figure 49) from

ing sections, work in a well-ventilated

the fuel shutoff valve.

area. Do not expose gasoline and gas-

6. Connect a hand-operated vacuum pump to the

oline vapors to sparks or other igni-

fuel shutoff valve vacuum hose nozzle.

tion sources.

7. Turn the fuel shutoff valve lever (A, Figure 48)

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

to the ON position.

2. Visually check the amount of fuel in the tank.

CAUTION

Add fuel if necessary.

In Step 8, do not apply more than 25

3. Turn the fuel shutoff valve to the OFF position

in. (635 mm) Hg vacuum or the fuel

(A, Figure 48) and disconnect the fuel hose (B, Fig-

shutoff valve diaphragm will be dam-

ure 48) from the fuel shutoff valve. Plug the open

aged.

end of the hose.

4. Connect the drain hose to the fuel shutoff valve

8. Apply 25 in. Hg of vacuum to the valve. Fuel

and secure it with a hose clamp. Insert the end of the

must flow through the fuel shutoff valve when the

drain hose into a gas can.

vacuum is applied.

WARNING

9. With the vacuum still applied, turn the fuel shut-

Do not perform this test if there are

off valve lever (A, Figure 48) to the RES position.

open flames or sparks in the area.

Fuel must continue to flow through the valve.

TROUBLESHOOTING

ENGINE NOISES

1. Knocking or pinging during acceleration can be

caused by using a lower octane fuel than recom-

mended or a poor grade of fuel. Incorrect carburetor

jetting and an incorrect (hot) spark plug heat range

can cause pinging. Refer to Spark Plug Heat Range

in Chapter Three. Check also for excessive carbon

buildup in the combustion chamber or a defective

CDI unit.

2. Slapping or rattling noises at low speed or dur-

ing acceleration can be caused by excessive pis-

ton-to-cylinder wall clearance. Check also for a

bent connecting rod(s) or worn piston pin and/or

piston pin hole in the piston(s).

3. Knocking or rapping while decelerating is usu-

ally caused by excessive rod bearing clearance.

4. Persistent knocking and vibration or other

noises are usually caused by worn main bearings. If

the main bearings are in good condition, consider

the following:

a. Loose engine mounts.

b. Cracked frame.

c. Leaking cylinder head gasket(s).

d. Exhaust pipe leakage at cylinder head(s).

e. Stuck piston ring(s).

f. Broken piston ring(s).

g. Partial engine seizure.

h. Excessive connecting rod bearing clearance.

i. Excessive connecting rod side clearance.

j. Excessive crankshaft runout.

5. Rapid on-off squeal indicates a compression

leak around the cylinder head gasket or spark plug.

6. Valve train noise- Check for the following:

a. Bent pushrod(s).

b. Defective lifter(s).

c. Valve sticking in guide.

10. Release the vacuum and check that fuel flow

d. Worn cam gears and/or cam.

stops.

e. Damaged rocker arm or shaft. Rocker arm

11. Repeat Steps 8-10 five times and check that

may be binding on shaft.

fuel flows with vacuum applied and stops flowing

when the vacuum is released.

ENGINE LUBRICATION

12. Turn the fuel shutoff valve OFF. Disconnect the

vacuum pump and drain hoses.

An improperly operating engine lubrication sys-

13. Reconnect the fuel hose (B, Figure 48) onto the

tem will quickly lead to serious engine damage.

fuel shutoff valve.

Check the engine oil level weekly as described in

14. If the fuel valve failed this test, replace the fuel

Chapter Three. Oil pump service is covered in

shutoff valve as described in Chapter Seven.

Chapter Four.

CHAPTER TWO

Oil Light

The oil light, mounted on the indicator light panel

(Figure 50, typical), will come on when the ignition

switch is turned ON before starting the engine. Af-

ter the engine is started, the oil light will turn off

when the engine speed is above idle.

If the oil light does not come on when the ignition

switch is turned to ON and the engine is not run-

ning, check for a burned out oil light bulb as de-

scribed in Chapter Eight. If the bulb is working,

check the oil pressure switch (Figure 51) as de-

scribed in Chapter Eight.

6. Restricted oil filter.

If the oil light remains on when the engine speed

7. Plugged air filter-to-breather system hose.

is above idle, turn the engine off and check the oil

level in the oil tank. If the oil level is satisfactory,

the oil may not be returning to the tank from the re-

CLUTCH

turn line. Check for a clogged or damaged return

line or a damaged oil pump. If the motorcycle is be-

All clutch troubles, except adjustments, require

ing operated in conditions where the ambient tem-

partial clutch disassembly to identify and repair the

perature is below freezing, ice and sludge may be

problem. Refer to Chapter Five for clutch service

blocking the oil feed pipe. This condition will pre-

procedures.

vent the oil from circulating properly.

Clutch Chatter or Noise

Oil Consumption High or Engine

This problem is usually caused by worn or

Smokes Excessively

warped friction and steel plates.

1. Worn valve guides.

2. Worn valve guide seals.

Clutch Slippage

3. Worn or damaged piston rings.

4. Oil pan overfilled.

1. Incorrect clutch adjustment.

5. Oil filter restricted.

2. Worn friction plates.

6. Leaking cylinder head surfaces.

3. Weak or damaged diaphragm spring.

4. Damaged pressure plate.

Oil Fails to Return to Oil Tank

Clutch Dragging

1. Oil lines or fittings restricted or damaged.

2. Oil pump damaged or operating incorrectly.

1. Incorrect clutch adjustment.

2. Warped clutch plates.

3. Oil pan empty.

3. Worn or damaged clutch shell or clutch hub.

4. Oil filter restricted.

4. Worn or incorrectly assembled clutch ball and

5. Damaged oil feed pump.

ramp mechanism.

5. Incorrect primary chain alignment.

Engine Oil Leaks

6. Weak or damaged diaphragm spring.

1. Clogged air filter breather hose.

TRANSMISSION

2. Restricted or damaged oil return line to oil tank.

3. Loose engine parts.

Transmission symptoms are sometimes hard to

4. Damaged gasket sealing surfaces.

distinguish from clutch symptoms. Refer to Chapter

5. Oil tank overfilled.

Six for transmission service procedures.

TROUBLESHOOTING

vibration problems. Vibration can also be caused by

the following conditions:

1. Cracked or broken frame.

2. Severely worn primary chain.

3. Tight primary chain links.

4. Loose, worn or damaged engine stabilizer link.

5. Loose or damaged rubber mounts.

6. Improperly balanced wheel(s).

7. Defective or damaged wheel(s).

8. Defective or damaged tire(s).

9. Internal engine wear or damage.

10. Loose or worn steering head bearings.

11. Loose swing arm pivot shaft nut.

Jumping Out of Gear

1. Worn or damaged shifter parts.

FRONT SUSPENSION

2. Incorrect shifter rod adjustment.

AND STEERING

3. Incorrect shifter drum adjustment.

4. Severely worn or damaged gears and/or

shift

Poor handling may be caused by improper tire in-

forks.

flation pressure, a damaged or bent frame or front

steering components, worn wheel bearings or drag-

ging brakes. Possible causes for suspension and

Difficult Shifting

steering malfunctions are listed below.

1. Worn or damaged shift forks.

2. Worn or damaged shifter clutch dogs.

Irregular or Wobbly Steering

3. Weak or damaged shifter return spring.

4. Clutch drag.

1. Loose wheel axle nut(s).

2. Loose or worn steering head bearings.

3. Excessive wheel bearing play.

Excessive Gear Noise

4. Damaged cast wheel.

1. Worn or damaged bearings.

5. Spoked wheel out of alignment.

2. Worn or damaged gears.

6. Unbalanced wheel assembly.

3. Excessive gear backlash.

7. Incorrect wheel alignment.

8. Bent or damaged steering stem or frame at steer-

ing neck.

LIGHTING SYSTEM

9. Tire incorrectly seated on rim.

10. Excessive front end loading from non-standard

If bulbs burn out frequently, check for excessive

equipment.

vibration, loose connections that permit sudden cur-

rent surges, or the installation of the wrong type of

bulb.

Stiff Steering

Most light and ignition problems are caused by

loose or corroded ground connections. Check

1. Low front tire air pressure.

these prior to replacing a bulb or electrical compo-

2. Bent or damaged steering stem or frame.

nent.

3. Loose or worn steering head bearings.

EXCESSIVE VIBRATION

Stiff or Heavy Fork Operation

Excessive vibration is usually caused by loose en-

1. Incorrect fork springs.

gine mounting hardware. A bent axle shaft or a

2. Incorrect fork oil viscosity.

loose suspension component will cause high-speed

3. Excessive amount of fork oil.

CHAPTER TWO

4. Bent fork tubes.

Insufficient Braking Power

Worn brake pads or disc, air in the hydraulic sys-

Poor Fork Operation

tem, glazed or contaminated pads, low brake fluid

level, or a leaking brake line or hose can cause this

1. Worn or damage fork tubes.

problem. Visually check for leaks. Check for worn

2. Fork oil capacity low due to leaking fork seals.

brake pads. Check also for a leaking or damaged

3. Bent or damaged fork tubes.

primary cup seal in the master cylinder. Bleed and

4. Contaminated fork oil.

adjust the brakes. Rebuild a leaking master cylinder

5. Incorrect fork springs.

or brake caliper. Brake drag will result in excessive

6. Heavy front end loading from non-standard

heat and brake fade. See Brake Drag in this section.

equipment.

Spongy Brake Feel

Poor Rear Shock

This problem is generally caused by air in the hy-

Absorber Operation

draulic system. Bleed and adjust the brakes.

1. Weak or worn springs.

Brake Drag

2. Damper unit leaking.

3. Shock shaft worn or bent.

Check the brake adjustment while checking for in-

4. Incorrect rear shock springs.

sufficient brake pedal and/or hand lever free play. Also

5. Rear shocks adjusted incorrectly.

check for worn, loose or missing parts in the brake cali-

pers. Check the brake disc for excessive runout.

6. Heavy rear end loading from non-standard

equipment.

Brakes Squeal or Chatter

7. Incorrect loading.

Check brake pad thickness and disc condition.

BRAKE PROBLEMS

Check that the caliper anti-rattle springs are prop-

erly installed and in good condition. Clean off any

All models are equipped with front and rear disc

dirt on the pads. Loose components can also cause

brakes. Good brakes are vital to the safe operation

this. Check for:

of any vehicle. Perform the maintenance specified

1. Warped brake disc

in Chapter Three to minimize brake system prob-

2. Loose brake disc.

lems. Brake system service is covered in Chapter

3. Loose caliper mounting bolts.

Twelve. When refilling the front and rear master

4. Loose front axle nut.

cylinders, use only DOT 5 silicone-based brake

5. Worn wheel bearings.

fluid.

6. Damaged hub.

Table 1 STARTER MOTOR TEST SPECIFICATIONS

Minimum no-load speed @ 11.5 volts

3000 rpm

Maximum no-load current @ 11.5 volts

90 amps

Current draw

Normal

160-180 amps

Maximum

200 amps

Brush length (minimum)

0.433 in. (11.0 mm )

Commutator diameter (minimum)

1.141 in. (28.981 mm)

TROUBLESHOOTING

Table 2 ELECTRICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Item

Specification

Battery capacity

12 volts, 19 amp hour

Alternator

AC voltage output

16-20 VAC per 1000 rpm

Stator coil resistance

0.1-0.2 ohms

Voltage regulator

Voltage output @ 3600 rpm

14.3-14.7 @ 75 degrees F (24 degrees C)

Amps @ 3600 rpm

32 amps

Ignition coil

Primary resistance

0.5-0.7 ohms

Secondary resistance

5500-7500 ohms

Table 3 DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES

Diagnostic Code No.

Fault Condition

MAP sensor

Battery voltage

Front cylinder ignition coil

Rear cylinder ignition coil

Tachometer

Crankshaft position sensor

Camshaft position sensor (1999-2000)

Bank angle sensor

RAM failure

ROM failure

EPROM failure

Ignition module failure

Camshaft position sensor and

crankshaft position sensor timing

CHAPTER THREE

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

The service life and operation of the

Tune-up section at the end of this chapter lists pro-

Harley-Davidson depends on the maintenance it re-

cedures that affect drivability and performance. If a

ceives. This is easy to understand once it is realized

procedure requires more than minor disassembly, it

that a motorcycle, even in normal use, is subjected

is covered in a subsequent chapter.

to tremendous heat, stress and vibration. When ne-

Periodic maintenance intervals are listed in Table

glected, any motorcycle becomes unreliable and

1 at the end of the chapter. Subsequent tables pro-

dangerous to ride.

vide capacities, recommendations and specifica-

All motorcycles require attention before and after

tions.

riding them. The time spent on basic maintenance

and lubrication will give the utmost in safety and

ROUTINE SAFETY CHECKS

performance. Minor problems found during these

inspections are simple and inexpensive to correct. If

Perform the following safety checks before the

they are not found and corrected at this time, they

first ride of the day.

can lead to major, more expensive problems.

Start by doing simple tune-up, lubrication and

maintenance procedures. Tackle more involved

General Inspection

jobs after becoming more familiar with the ma-

chine.

1. Inspect the engine, transmission and primary

Perform critical maintenance tasks and checks

drive for oil leakage.

weekly. Perform others at specific time or mileage

2. Check the tires for embedded stones. Pry them

intervals or if certain symptoms appear. The

out with a suitable tool.

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

2. Push the rear brake pedal down and check that

the brake light comes on soon after the pedal has

been depressed.

3. Make sure the headlight and taillight are on.

4. Move the dimmer switch up and down between

the high and low positions, and make sure both

headlight elements are working.

5. Push the turn signal switch to the left and right

positions and make sure all four turn signal lights

are working.

6. Check that all accessory lights work properly, if

so equipped.

7. Check the horn button operation.

3. Check tire pressure (Table 2) when the tires are

8. If the horn or any light fails to work properly, re-

cold. Refer to Tires and Wheels in this chapter for

fer to Chapter Eight.

more information.

4. Make sure ALL lights work.

5. Inspect the fuel lines and fittings for leakage.

MAINTENANCE INTERVALS

6. Check the fuel level in the fuel tank. Top off, if

required.

The recommended service intervals are listed in

7. Check the operation of the front and rear brakes.

Table 1. Strict adherence to these recommendations

Add DOT 5 brake fluid to the front and rear master

will go a long way toward ensuring long service

cylinders as required.

from the motorcycle. To prevent rust damage when

8. Check clutch operation. If necessary, adjust the

operating the motorcycle in areas of high humidity

clutch as described in this chapter.

or when riding near the ocean, increase the lubrica-

9. Check the throttle operation. The hand throttle

tion service intervals.

must move smoothly with no roughness, sticking or

tightness. The throttle must snap back when re-

This chapter describes most of the services shown

leased. Adjust throttle free play, if necessary, as de-

in Table 1. The remaining chapters cover those pro-

scribed in this chapter.

cedures that require more than minor disassembly

10. Check the rear brake pedal. It must move

or adjustment.

smoothly.

11. Inspect the front and rear suspension. Make

sure they have a good solid feel with no looseness.

TIRES AND WHEELS

12. Check the exhaust system for leakage or dam-

age.

Tire Pressure

CAUTION

Check the tire pressure often to maintain tire pro-

When checking the tightness of the ex-

file, traction, and handling and to get the maximum

posed fasteners on the Dyna Glide, do

life out of the tire. Carry a tire gauge (Figure 1) in

not check the cylinder head bolts

the motorcycle’s tool kit. Table 2 lists the cold tire

without following the specific cylin-

der head tightening sequence de-

pressures for the tires.

scribed in Chapter Four.

NOTE

After checking and adjusting the air

Lights and Horn

pressure, reinstall the air valve caps.

These caps prevent debris from col-

With the engine running, check the following.

lecting in the valve stems and causing

1. Pull the front brake lever and check that the

air leakage or incorrect tire pressure

brake light comes on.

readings.

CHAPTER THREE

Tire Inspection

The tires take a lot of punishment, so inspect them

periodically for excessive wear, deep cuts and im-

bedded objects such as stones or nails. If a nail or

other object is found in a tire, mark its location with

a light crayon prior to removing it. This will help lo-

cate the hole for repair.

Refer to Chapter Nine for tire changing and repair

information. Check local traffic regulations con-

cerning minimum tread depth. Measure with a tread

depth gauge (Figure 2) or a small ruler. As a guide-

line, replace tires when the tread depth is 5/16 in.

(8.0 mm.) or less.

Laced Wheel Spoke Tension

Check the laced wheels for loose or damaged

spokes, on models so equipped. Refer to Chapter

Nine for spoke service.

Rim Inspection

On both cast and laced wheels, check the wheel

rims for cracks and other damage. If damaged, a rim

can make the motorcycle handle poorly. Refer to

CAUTION

Chapter Nine for wheel service.

Holding the motorcycle straight up

will result in an incorrect oil level

reading.

PERIODIC LUBRICATION

Wipe the area around the oil filler cap with a

Engine Oil Level Check

clean rag. Then pull the oil filler cap (Figure 3) out

Check the engine oil level with the dipstick/oil

of the transmission case. Wipe the dipstick off with

filler cap located in the transmission/oil tank case

a clean rag and reinsert it all the way into the oil tank

cover. The dipstick and oil filler cap (Figure 3) is

until it bottoms. Withdraw the filler cap again and

located on the right side top surface of transmission

check the oil level on the dipstick. The oil level

cover.

should be at the FULL HOT mark on the dipstick

(Figure 4). If the oil level is even with, or below the

NOTE

ADD QUART mark, continue with Step 4. If the oil

Check both vent hoses and intercon-

level is correct, go to Step 5.

necting oil hoses for swelling, cracks

4. To correct the oil level, add the recommended

or damage and replace immediately.

Check each hose connection and

engine oil listed in Table 3.

make sure the hose clamps are secure.

CAUTION

1. Start and run the engine for approximately 10

Do not overfill the oil level in the

minutes or until the engine has reached normal op-

transmission or the oil filler cap will

erating temperature. Then turn the engine off and

pop out when the oil gets hot.

allow the oil to settle in the tank.

2. Place the motorcycle on a level surface and park

5. Check the O-ring (Figure 5) for cracks or other

it on its jiffy stand.

damage. Replace the O-ring if necessary.

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

FULL HOT

DO NOT OVERFILL

For cold check do not exceed this

point when filling with oil

ity to use under anticipated ambient temperatures,

not engine oil temperature. Using oil additives is

not recommended as they may cause clutch slip-

page.

WARNING

Contact with oil may cause skin can-

cer. Wash hands with soap and water

as soon as possible after handling en-

gine oil.

CAUTION

Do not use the current SH and SJ

rated automotive oils in motorcycle

6. Reinstall the oil filler cap and push it down until

engines. The SH and SJ rated oils

it bottoms.

contain friction modifiers that reduce

frictional losses on engine compo-

nents. Specifically designed for auto-

Engine Oil and Filter Change

motive engines, these oils can damage

motorcycle engines and clutches.

Regular oil and filter changes will contribute

more to engine longevity than any other mainte-

NOTE

nance performed. Table 1 lists the recommended oil

The engine oil tank is an integral part

and filter change interval. This assumes that the mo-

of the transmission case and is con-

torcycle is operated in moderate climates. The time

nected to the rear of the crankcase

interval is more important than the mileage interval

with two hoses. The oil level dipstick

because combustion acids, formed by gasoline and

is located on the upper right side of

the transmission/oil tank case (Fig-

water vapor, will contaminate the oil even if the mo-

ure 3).

torcycle is not run for several months. If the motor-

cycle is operated under dusty conditions, the oil will

NOTE

become contaminated more quickly and should be

Never dispose of motor oil in the

changed more frequently than recommended.

trash, on the ground or down a storm

Use a motorcycle oil with an API classification of

drain. Many service stations and oil

SF or SG. The classification is printed on the con-

retailers will accept used oil for recy-

tainer. Always try to use the same brand of oil at

cling. Do not combine other fluids

each change. Refer to Table 3 for correct oil viscos-

with motor oil to be recycled. To lo-

CHAPTER THREE

Front of

motorcycle

1. Engine drain plug

2. Transmission drain plug

cate a recycling facility, contact the

American Petroleum Institute (API)

at www.recycleoil.org.

1. Start and run the engine for approximately 10

minutes or until the engine has reached normal oper-

ating temperature. Then turn the engine off and allow

the oil to settle in the transmission case. Support the

motorcycle so that the oil can drain completely.

NOTE

Before removing the oil filler cap,

clean off all dirt and debris around it.

2. Remove the oil filler cap (Figure 3) as this will

speed up the flow of oil.

NOTE

The transmission/oil tank case is

equipped with two drain plugs. Make

sure to remove only the engine oil

drain plug (1, Figure 6). Do not re-

move the transmission drain plug (2,

Figure 6).

3. Place a drain pan underneath the transmis-

sion/oil tank pan and remove the engine oil drain

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

Quickly remove the oil filter as oil will begin

to run out.

c. Hold the filter over the drain pan and pour out

the remaining oil. Place the filter in a plastic

bag, seal it and dispose of it properly.

d. Remove the drain plug and gasket. Wipe the

drain plug sealing surface on the oil pan with

a clean, lint-free cloth.

e. Coat the neoprene gasket (Figure 9) on the

new filter with clean oil.

CAUTION

Tighten the oil filter by hand. Do not

overtighten.

f. Screw the oil filter onto its mount by hand and

tighten until the filter gasket just touches the

sealing surface, then tighten the filter by hand

an additional 1/2 to 3/4 turn.

6. Replace the engine oil drain plug O-ring (Figure

10) if leaking or damaged.

7. Lubricate the O-ring with clean engine oil before

installing it. Then screw in the drain plug and

O-ring and tighten to the torque specification in Ta-

ble 6.

8. While the engine is drained of oil, inspect the oil

plug (Figure 11) at the base of the right side crank-

case for leakage. If leakage has occurred, remove

the oil plug, clean the threads thoroughly in solvent

and dry. Apply Loctite Pipe Sealant, or an equiva-

lent, to the threads and reinstall the oil plug. Tighten

the plug to the specification in Table 6.

CAUTION

Do not overfill the engine in Step 9.

Table 4 lists two engine oil refill ca-

pacities. One capacity is for an oil

and filter change and the other is for

after rebuilding the engine. If too

much oil is added, the oil filler cap

plug and O-ring (A, Figure

7) from the left side of

will be forced out of the transmission

the pan.

case cover when the oil gets hot.

4. Allow the oil to drain completely.

9. Add the correct viscosity (Table 3) and quantity

5. To replace the oil filter (Figure 8), perform the

(Table 4) of oil into the transmission/oil tank case.

following:

Insert the oil filler cap into the case and push it

a. Temporarily install the drain bolt and O-ring

down until it bottoms.

and tighten finger-tight. Then move the drain

NOTE

pan underneath the oil filter.

After oil has been added, the oil level

b. At the front of the engine, install a socket type

will register above the FULL HOT

oil filter wrench squarely over the oil filter

dipstick mark (Figure 4) until the en-

and loosen it by turning it counterclockwise.

gine runs and the filter fills with oil.

CHAPTER THREE

To obtain a correct reading after add-

ing oil and installing a new oil filter,

follow the procedure in Step 10.

10. After changing the engine oil and filter, check

the oil level as follows:

a. Start and run the engine for 1 minute, then

shut it off.

b. Check the oil level on the dipstick as de-

scribed in this chapter.

c. If the oil level is correct, it will register in the

dipstick’s safe operating level range. If so, do

not top off or add oil to bring it to the FULL

HOT level on the dipstick.

11. Check the oil filter and drain plug for leaks.

TRANSMISSION

12. Dispose the used oil properly.

DIPSTICK

Transmission Oil Level Check

Table 1 lists the recommended transmission oil

inspection intervals. When checking the transmis-

sion oil level, do not allow any dirt or debris to enter

Add

Full

the transmission/oil tank case opening.

WARNING

O-ring

Contact with oil may cause skin can-

cer. Wash oil from hands with soap

and water as soon as possible after

handling engine oil.

NOTE

The transmission oil tank is an inte-

Wipe the dipstick and reinsert it back into the

gral part of the transmission case.

clutch release cover housing; do not screw the

The oil level checking dipstick is lo-

cated on the forward portion of the

cap/dipstick into place. Rest it on the housing and

clutch release cover attached to the

then withdraw it. The oil level is correct when it reg-

side of the transmission/oil tank case.

isters between the two dipstick marks (Figure 13).

1. Ride the motorcycle for approximately 10 min-

CAUTION

utes and shift through all five gears until the trans-

Do not add engine oil. Add only the

mission oil has reached normal operating

recommended transmission oil listed

in Table 5.

temperature. Turn the engine off and allow the oil to

settle in the tank. Park the motorcycle on a level sur-

face and have an assistant support it so that it is

4. If the oil level is low, add the recommended type

standing straight up.

of Harley-Davidson Transmission Oil, or equiva-

lent, listed in Table 5. Do not overfill.

CAUTION

5. Inspect the filler cap O-ring. Replace if worn or

Do not check the oil level with the mo-

damaged.

torcycle supported on its jiffy stand or

6. Install the oil filler cap/dipstick and tighten it se-

the reading will be incorrect.

curely.

2. Clean the area around the transmission filler

7. Wipe any spilled oil off the clutch release cover

cap/dipstick (Figure 12).

housing.

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

CAUTION

Do not add engine oil. Add only the

recommended transmission oil in Ta-

ble 5. Make sure to add the oil to the

correct oil filler hole.

7. Refill the transmission through the oil filler

cap/dipstick hole with the recommended quantity

(Table 4) and type (Table 5) transmission oil.

8. Install the transmission filler cap/dipstick cap

and O-ring (Figure 12) and tighten securely.

9. Remove the oil drain pan from underneath the

transmission oil pan and dispose of the oil as out-

Transmission Oil Change

lined under Engine Oil and Filter Change in this

chapter.

Table 1 lists the recommended transmission oil

change intervals.

10. Ride the motorcycle until the transmission oil

1. Ride the motorcycle for approximately 10 min-

reaches normal operating temperature. Then shut

utes and shift through all five gears until the trans-

the engine off.

mission oil has reached normal operating

11. Check the transmission drain plug for leaks.

temperature. Turn off the engine and allow the oil to

12. Check the transmission oil level as described in

settle in the tank. Park the motorcycle on a level sur-

this chapter. Readjust the level if necessary.

face and have an assistant support it so that it is

standing straight up.

2. Clean the area around the transmission filler

Primary Chaincase

cap/dipstick (Figure 12). Unscrew it and remove

Oil Level Check

the cap.

The primary chaincase oil lubricates the clutch,

NOTE

primary chain and sprockets. Table 1 lists the inter-

The oil tank pan is equipped with two

vals for checking the chaincase oil level. When

drain plugs. Make sure to remove the

checking the primary chaincase oil level, do not al-

transmission oil drain plug (B, Fig-

low any dirt or debris to enter the housing.

ure 7) and not the engine oil drain

1. Park the motorcycle on a level surface and sup-

plug (A, Figure 7).

port it so that it is standing straight up. Do not sup-

3. Place a drain pan underneath the transmis-

port it on the jiffy stand.

sion/oil tank pan and remove the transmission oil

CAUTION

drain plug and O-ring (B, Figure 7).

Do not check the oil level with the mo-

WARNING

torcycle supported on its jiffy stand or

If any oil spills onto the ground, wipe

the reading will be incorrect.

it up immediately before it contacts

the rear tire.

2. Remove the screws securing the clutch inspec-

tion cover and O-ring (Figure 14). Remove the

4. Check the drain plug O-ring (Figure 10) for

cover.

damage and replace if necessary.

3. The oil level is correct when it is even with the

5. The drain plug is magnetic. Check the plug (Fig-

bottom of the clutch opening or at the bottom of the

ure 10) for metal debris that may indicate transmis-

clutch diaphragm spring (Figure 15).

sion damage, then wipe the plug off. Replace the

plug if damaged.

CAUTION

6. Install the transmission drain plug and gasket (B,

Do not add engine oil. Add only the

Figure 7) and tighten to the specification in Table

recommended primary chaincase lu-

bricant listed in Table 5.

CHAPTER THREE

4. If necessary, add Harley-Davidson Primary

Chaincase Lubricant, or equivalent, through the

opening (Figure 16) to correct the level.

5. Install the clutch inspection cover O-ring (Fig-

ure 17) onto the primary chain case cover.

6. Install the clutch inspection cover and tighten

the screws to the torque specification in Table 6.

Primary Chaincase Oil Change

Table 1 lists the recommended primary chaincase

lubricant replacement intervals.

1. Ride the motorcycle for approximately 10 min-

utes and shift through all five gears until the trans-

mission oil has reached normal operating

temperature. Turn off the engine and allow the oil to

settle. Park the motorcycle on a level surface and

have an assistant support it so that it is standing

straight up. Do not support it with its jiffy stand.

2. Place a drain pan under the chaincase and re-

move the drain plug (Figure 18).

3. Allow the oil to drain for at least 10 minutes.

4. The drain plug is magnetic. Check the plug for

metal debris that may indicate primary drive com-

ponent or clutch damage, then wipe the plug off.

Replace the plug if damaged.

5. Reinstall the drain plug and tighten securely.

6. Remove the screws securing the clutch inspec-

tion cover and O-ring (Figure 14). Remove the

cover.

CAUTION

Do not add engine oil. Add only the

recommended primary chaincase lu-

bricant listed in Table 5.

7. Refill the primary chaincase through the clutch

opening (Figure 16) with the recommended quan-

tity (Table 4) and type (Table 5) primary chaincase

oil. Do not overfill. The oil level must be even with

the bottom of the clutch opening or at the bottom of

the clutch diaphragm spring (Figure 15).

8. Install the clutch inspection cover O-ring (Fig-

ure 17) onto the primary chain case cover.

9. Install the clutch inspection cover and tighten

the screws to the specification in Table 6.

10. Ride the motorcycle until the primary chaincase

oil reaches normal operating temperature. Then shut

the engine off and recheck the oil level.

11. Check the primary chaincase drain plug for

leaks.

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

bly and Assembly (FXDX and FXDXT

Models) in Chapter Ten.

Table 1 lists the factory recommended fork oil

change intervals.

1. Place a drain pan beside one fork tube, then re-

move the drain screw and washer (Figure 19, typi-

cal) from the slider.

2. Straddle the motorcycle and apply the front

brake lever. Push down on the fork and release. Re-

peat to force as much oil out of the fork tube as pos-

sible.

CAUTION

Do not allow the fork oil to come in

contact with any of the brake compo-

nents.

3. Replace the drain screw washer if damaged.

4. Repeat Steps 1-3 for the opposite fork tube.

5. Raise and secure the front end so that the front

wheel clears the ground. Make sure both fork tubes

are fully extended.

6. Loosen the upper fork bridge bolt (A, Figure 20)

on each side.

NOTE

If the handlebars interfere with fork

top cap removal in Step 7, partially re-

move the handlebars as described in

Chapter Ten.

Center plug

7A. On models with a center plug, perform the fol-

lowing:

a. Loosen the center plug and remove it (Figure

21).

Fork cap

b. Install the drain screw and washer and tighten

securely.

7B. On all other models, perform the following:

a. Loosen the top cap (B, Figure 20) and re-

move it with the spacer and oil seal.

b. Install the drain screw and washer and tighten

securely.

8. Insert a small funnel into the fork tube opening.

9. Fill the fork tube with the correct viscosity and

Front Fork Oil Change

quantity of fork oil. Refer to Table 5 and Table 7.

(Except FXDX and FXDXT Models)

Remove the small funnel.

10A. On models with a center plug, install the fork

NOTE

tube plug into the fork tube and tighten securely.

The cartridge fork installed on FXDX

and FXDXT models must be partially

10B. On all other models, install the top cap and the

disassembled for fork oil replace-

O-ring seal and tighten to the torque specification

ment. Refer to Front Fork Disassem-

listed in Table 6.

CHAPTER THREE

11. Tighten the upper fork bridge bolt (A, Figure

20) on each side to the torque specification in Table

12. Repeat for the opposite fork tube.

13. If partially removed, install the handlebar as

described in Chapter Ten.

14. Road test the motorcycle and check for leaks.

Control Cables

Lubricate the control cables at the intervals speci-

fied in Table 1 or when they become stiff or slug-

gish. At this time, inspect each cable for fraying and

cable sheath damage. Cables are relatively inexpen-

sive and should be replaced if faulty. Lubricate the

cables with a cable lubricant.

CAUTION

If the original equipment cables have

been replaced with nylon-lined ca-

bles, do not lubricate them as de-

scribed in this procedure. Oil and

most cable lubricants will cause the

cable liner to expand, pushing the

liner against the cable sheath. Ny-

lon-lined cables are normally used

dry. When servicing nylon-lined and

other aftermarket cables, follow the

manufacturer’s instructions.

CAUTION

Insert the lubricant nozzle tube into the lubrica-

Do not use chain lube to lubricate

tor, press the button on the can and hold it down

control cables.

until the lubricant begins to flow out of the other

CAUTION

end of the cable. If the lubricant squirts out from

The starting enrichment valve (choke)

around the lubricator, it is not clamped it to the ca-

cable is designed to operate with a

ble properly. Loosen and reposition the cable lu-

certain amount of cable resistance.

bricator.

Do not lubricate the enrichener cable

or its conduit.

NOTE

If the lubricant does not flow out of

1A. Disconnect the clutch cable ends as described

the other end of the cable, check the

cable for fraying, bending or other

under Clutch Cable Replacement in Chapter Five.

damage. Replace damaged cables.

1B. Disconnect both throttle cable ends as de-

scribed under Throttle and Idle Cable Replacement

4. Remove the lubricator tool and wipe off both

in Chapter Seven.

ends of the cable.

2. Attach a lubricator tool to the cable following its

5A. Reconnect the clutch cable ends as described

manufacturer’s instructions (Figure 22).

under Clutch Cable Replacement in Chapter Five.

NOTE

5B. Reconnect both the throttle cable ends as de-

Place a shop cloth at the end of the ca-

scribed under Throttle and Idle Cable Replacement

ble to catch all excess lubricant.

in Chapter Seven.

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

dry, lubricate it with a light weight oil. To service

the pivot pin, refer to Front Master Cylinder in

Chapter Twelve.

Clutch Lever Pivot Pin

Lubrication

Inspect the clutch lever pivot pin for adequate lu-

brication at the intervals specified in Table 1. If the

pin is dry, lubricate it with a light weight oil. To ser-

vice the pivot pin, refer to Clutch Cable Replace-

ment in Chapter Five.

6. Adjust the cables as described in this chapter.

PERIODIC MAINTENANCE

Throttle Control Grip

Lubrication

This section describes the periodic inspection,

adjustment and replacement of various operational

Table 1 lists the recommended throttle control

items on the Dyna Glide. Perform these procedures

grip lubrication intervals. To remove and install the

at the intervals in Table 1, or earlier, if necessary.

throttle grip (Figure 23), refer to Throttle and Idle

Cable Replacement in Chapter Seven. Lubricate the

throttle control grip (where it contacts the handle-

Primary Chain Adjustment

bar) with graphite.

As the primary chain stretches and wears, its free

play movement increases. Excessive free play will

Steering Head Lubrication

cause premature chain and sprocket wear and in-

crease chain noise. If the free play is adjusted too

Lubricate the steering head bearings at the inter-

tight, the chain will wear prematurely.

vals specified in Table 1. Complete lubrication re-

quires removal of the steering head assembly. Refer

NOTE

to Chapter Ten.

On models so equipped, always dis-

arm the optional TSSM security sys-

tem prior to disconnecting the battery

Wheel Bearings (1999 Models)

or the siren will sound.

Lubricate the wheel bearings at the intervals

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable as de-

specified in Table 1. Complete lubrication requires

scribed in Chapter Eight.

removal of the wheel bearing assemblies. Refer to

2. Support the motorcycle with the rear wheel off

Chapter Nine.

the ground.

NOTE

Swing Arm Bearings

Note the location of the inspection

cover screws. There are two different

Lubricate the swing arm at the interval in Table 1.

length screws and they must be rein-

Refer to Chapter Eleven for procedures.

stalled in the correct location.

3A. On all models except FXDWG, perform the fol-

Front Brake Lever Pivot Pin

lowing:

Lubrication

a. Make an alignment mark (A, Figure 24) on

Inspect the front brake lever pivot pin for lubrica-

the outer shift lever and the end of the inner

tion at the intervals specified in Table 1. If the pin is

shift lever shaft.

CHAPTER THREE

b. Remove the clamping bolt (B, Figure 24) and

remove the outer shift lever.

c. Remove the screws and the inspection cover

and gasket (Figure 25) from the primary

chaincase cover.

3B. On FXDWG models, remove the primary chain

inspection cover and gasket.

4. Turn the primary chain to find the tightest point

on the chain. Measure chain free play at this point.

NOTE

Figure 26 is shown with the primary

chain case removed to better illus-

trate the steps.

5. Check primary chain free play at the upper chain

run midway between the sprockets (Figure 26). The

correct primary chain free play specifications are:

a. Cold engine: 5/8 to 7/8 in. (16-22 mm).

b. Hot engine: 3/8 to 5/8 in. (10-16 mm).

If the primary chain free play is incorrect, con-

tinue with Step 6. If the free play is correct, go to

Step 7.

6A. On 1999-2000 models, perform the following:

a. Loosen the primary chain adjuster shoe nut

(Figure 27).

b. Move the shoe assembly up or down to cor-

rect free play.

c. Tighten the primary chain adjuster shoe nut to

the torque specification in Table 6, then re-

check free play.

6B. On 2001 models, perform the following:

a. Loosen the primary chain adjuster shoe nut

(A, Figure 28).

b. Move the shoe assembly up or down to cor-

rect free play.

c. Tighten the primary chain adjuster shoe nut

(A, Figure 28) to the torque specification in

Table 6, then recheck free play.

7. Install the primary chain inspection cover and a

new gasket (B, Figure 28). Tighten the cover

screws to the specification in Table 6.

8. Lower the motorcycle to the ground.

Final Drive Belt

Deflection and Alignment

Inspect drive belt deflection and rear axle align-

ment at the intervals specified in Table 1. If the

drive belt is severely worn, or if it is wearing incor-

LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

on the lower belt run, midway between the front and

DRIVE BELT DEFLECTION

rear sprockets.

2. Lower the motorcycle to the ground.

3. Position the motorcycle so that both wheels are

on the ground. When checking and adjusting drive

belt deflection in the following steps, have an assis-

tant sit on the seat facing forward.

NOTE

Use the Harley-Davidson belt tension

Belt deflection

gauge (part No. HD-35381) or equiv-

10 lb. (4.5 kg)

alent to apply pressure against the

drive belt in Step 4.

4. Apply a force of 10 lb. (4.5 kg) to the middle of

the lower belt strand while measuring the belt’s de-

flection measurement at the same point (Figure 29).

Compare the belt deflection measurement with the

specification in Table 8. If the belt deflection mea-

surement is incorrect, continue with Step 5. If the

deflection measurement is correct, go to Step 8.

5. Support the motorcycle with the rear wheel off

the ground.

6. Remove the spring clip and loosen the rear axle

nut (A, Figure 30).

7. Turn each axle adjuster (B, Figure 30) in equal

amounts to adjust belt deflection while maintaining

REAR AXLE

rear wheel alignment. Recheck drive belt deflection

ALIGNMENT TOOL

as described in Step 4.

8. When the drive belt deflection measurement is

Grommet

correct, check axle alignment as follows:

a. To make the alignment tool shown in Figure

31, refer to Vehicle Alignment in Chapter

1-1/4 in.

Nine.

(32 mm)

b. Support the motorcycle with the rear wheel

10 in.

(254 mm)

off the ground.

c. Insert the alignment tool into the swing arm

index holes. Then hold it parallel to the rear

axle and slide the grommet on the tool until it

rectly, refer to Chapter Eleven for inspection and re-

aligns with the axle center point (Figure 32).

placement procedures.

d. Remove the alignment tool without disturb-

ing the position of the grommet and insert the

NOTE

tool into the opposte side of the swing arm.

Check the drive belt deflection and

Compare the axle center point with the posi-

axle alignment when the belt is cold.

tion of the grommet. Axle alignment is cor-

rect if the two measurements are within 0.32

in. (0.8 mm) of each other.

1. Support the motorcycle with the rear wheel off

e. If the axle alignment is incorrect, adjust the

the ground. Then turn the rear wheel and check the

axle with the axle adjusters (B, Figure 30)

drive belt for its tightest point. When this point is lo-

while maintaining the correct drive belt de-

cated, turn the wheel so that the belt’s tight spot is

flection measurement.

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