Harley Davidson FXD DYNA 2019. Service repair Manual and Wiring Diagrams — page 3
40
CHAPTER TWO
2. Cover the spark plug hole with a clean shop cloth
3
to lessen the chance of gasoline vapors being emit-
ted from the hole.
3. Insert the spark plug (Figure 3), or spark tester
(Figure 4), into its plug cap and ground the spark
plug base against the cylinder head. Position the
spark plug so the electrode is visible.
NOTE
If a spark plug is used, perform the
procedure with a new spark plug.
WARNING
Mount the spark plug, or tester, away
from the spark plug hole in the cylin-
4
der so the spark cannot ignite the gas-
oline vapors in the cylinder. If the
engine is flooded, do not perform this
test. The firing of the spark plug can
ignite fuel that is ejected through the
spark plug hole.
4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
WARNING
Do not hold the spark plug, wire or
connector, or a serious electrical
shock may result.
1.
Fouled spark plug(s).
5. Turn the engine over with the electric starter. A
2.
Improperly adjusted enrichener valve.
crisp blue spark should be evident across the spark
3.
Intake manifold air leak.
plug electrode or spark tester terminals. If there is
4.
A plugged fuel tank filler cap.
strong sunlight on the plug, shade the plug by hand
to better see the spark.
5.
Clogged carburetor fuel line.
6. If the spark is good, check for one or more of the
6.
Contaminated fuel system.
following possible malfunctions:
7.
An improperly adjusted carburetor.
a. Obstructed fuel line or fuel filter.
8.
A defective ignition module.
b. Low compression or engine damage.
9.
A defective ignition coil.
c. Flooded engine.
7. If the spark is weak or if there is no spark, refer to
10. Damaged ignition coil primary and secondary
Engine is Difficult to Start in this chapter.
wires (Figure 5).
11. Incorrect ignition timing.
NOTE
12. Low engine compression.
If the engine backfires during starting
attempts, the ignition timing may be
13. Engine oil too heavy (winter temperatures).
incorrect due to a defective ignition
14. Discharged battery.
component. Refer to Ignition Timing
in Chapter Three for more informa-
15. A defective starter motor.
tion.
16. Loose or corroded starter and/or battery cables.
17. A loose ignition sensor and module electrical
Engine is Difficult to Start
connector.
Check for one or more of the following possible
18. Incorrect pushrod length (intake and exhaust
malfunctions:
valve pushrods interchanged).
TROUBLESHOOTING
41
7. Incorrect carburetor float level.
5
Engine Runs but Misfires
2
1. Fouled or improperly gapped spark plugs.
2. Damaged spark plug cables.
3. Incorrect ignition timing.
4. Defective ignition components.
5. An obstructed fuel line or fuel shutoff valve.
6. Obstructed fuel filter.
7. Clogged carburetor jets.
8. Loose battery connection.
Engine Will Not Crank
9. Wiring or connector damage.
10. Water or other contaminants in fuel.
Check for one or more of the following possible
11. Weak or damaged valve springs.
malfunctions:
12. Incorrect camshaft/valve timing.
1. Ignition switch turned OFF.
13. A damaged valve(s).
2. A defective ignition switch.
14. Dirty electrical connections.
3. Run switch in OFF position.
15. Intake manifold or carburetor air leak.
4. A defective engine run switch.
16. A plugged carburetor vent hose.
5. Loose or corroded starter and battery cables (so-
17. Plugged fuel tank vent system.
lenoid chatters).
6. Discharged or defective battery.
Engine Overheating
7. A defective starter motor.
8. A defective starter solenoid.
1. Incorrect carburetor adjustment or jet selection.
9. A defective starter shaft pinion gear.
2. Incorrect ignition timing or defective ignition
10. Slipping overrunning clutch assembly.
system components.
11. A seized piston(s).
3. Improper spark plug heat range.
12. Seized crankshaft bearings.
4. Damaged or blocked cooling fins.
13. A broken connecting rod.
5. Low oil level.
6. Oil not circulating properly.
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
7. Leaking valves.
8. Heavy engine carbon deposits.
In the following check list, it is assumed that the
engine runs, but is not operating at peak perfor-
Engine Runs Roughly with
mance. This will serve as a starting point from
Excessive Exhaust Smoke
which to isolate a performance malfunction.
1. Clogged air filter element.
Fouled Spark Plugs
2. Incorrect rich carburetor adjustment.
3. Choke not operating correctly.
If the spark plugs continually foul, check for the
4. Water or other contaminants in fuel.
following:
5. Clogged fuel line.
1. Severely contaminated air filter element.
6. Spark plugs fouled.
2. Incorrect spark plug heat range. See Chapter
7. A defective ignition coil.
Three.
8. A defective ignition module or sensor(s).
3. Rich fuel mixture.
9. Loose or defective ignition circuit wire.
4. Worn or damaged piston rings.
10. Short circuits from damaged wire insulation.
5. Worn or damaged valve guide oil seals.
11. Loose battery cable connections.
6. Excessive valve stem-to-guide clearance.
12. Incorrect camshaft/valve timing.
42
CHAPTER TWO
6
STARTER/SOLENOID
7
VOLTAGE DROP TEST
TERMINALS
(SOLENOID CIRCUIT)
M terminal
C terminal
0.1 amp
Start switch
Field wire
0.1 amp
20 amp
Relay
Ignition circuit
breaker
VOM
Ignition switch
Starte
Main circuit
50 terminal
breaker
Solenoid
150 amp
Battery
13. Intake manifold or air filter air leaks.
150 amp
Starter
Engine Loses Power
1. Incorrect carburetor (lean) adjustment.
2. Engine overheating.
3. Incorrect ignition timing.
4. Incorrectly gapped spark plugs.
ELECTRIC STARTING SYSTEM
5. An obstructed muffler.
6. Dragging brake(s).
The starting system consists of the battery, starter
motor, starter relay, solenoid, start switch, starter
Engine Lacks Acceleration
mechanism and related wiring.
When the ignition switch is turned on and the
1. Incorrect carburetor adjustment.
start button is pushed in, current is transmitted from
2. Clogged fuel line.
the battery to the starter relay. When the relay is ac-
3. Incorrect ignition timing.
tivated, it in turn activates the starter solenoid that
4. Dragging brake(s).
mechanically engages the starter with the engine.
Starting system problems are most often related
to a loose or corroded electrical connection.
Valve Train Noise
Refer to Figure 6 for starter motor and solenoid
terminal identification.
1. A bent pushrod(s).
2. A defective hydraulic lifter(s).
3. A bent valve.
Troubleshooting Preparation
4. Rocker arm seizure or damage
(binding
on
shaft).
Before troubleshooting the starting system, check
5. Worn or damaged camshaft gear bushing(s).
the following:
6. Worn or damaged camshaft gear(s).
1. Make sure the battery is fully charged.
TROUBLESHOOTING
43
6. The spark plugs are in good condition and prop-
8
erly gapped.
7. The ignition system is working correctly.
2
Voltage Drop Test
Before performing the steps listed under Trouble-
shooting, perform this voltage drop test. These steps
will help find weak or damaged electrical compo-
nents that may be causing the starting system prob-
lem. A voltmeter is required to test voltage drop.
1. To check voltage drop in the solenoid circuit,
connect the positive voltmeter lead to the positive
9
battery terminal; connect the negative voltmeter
VOLTAGE DROP TEST
lead to the solenoid (Figure 7).
(STARTER GROUND CIRCUIT)
NOTE
0.1 amp
The voltmeter lead must not touch the
Start switch
starter-to-solenoid terminal. Figure 8
0.1 amp
shows the solenoid terminal with the
20 amp
starter/solenoid removed to better il-
Relay
lustrate the step.
Ignition circuit
breaker
2. Turn the ignition switch on and push the starter
VOM
button while reading the voltmeter scale. Note the
Ignition switch
following:
a. The circuit is operating correctly if the volt-
Main circuit
meter reading is 2 volts or less. A voltmeter
breaker
reading of 12 volts indicates an open circuit.
b. A voltage drop of more than 2 volts shows a
problem in the solenoid circuit.
Solenoid
150 amp
c. If the voltage drop reading is correct, con-
Battery
150 amp
tinue with Step 3.
3. To check the starter motor ground circuit, con-
Starter
nect the negative voltmeter lead to the negative bat-
tery terminal; connect the positive voltmeter lead to
the starter motor housing (Figure 9).
4. Turn the ignition switch on and push the starter
button while reading the voltmeter scale. The volt-
age drop must not exceed 0.2 volts. If it does, check
the ground connections between the meter leads.
2.
Battery cables are the proper size and length. Re-
5. If the problem is not found, refer to Trouble-
place damaged or undersized cables.
shooting in the following section.
3. All electrical connections are clean and tight.
High resistance caused from dirty or loose connec-
NOTE
Steps 3 and 4 check the voltage drop
tors can affect voltage and current levels.
across the starter motor ground cir-
4. The wiring harness is in good condition, with no
cuit. Repeat this test to check any
worn or frayed insulation or loose harness sockets.
ground circuit in the starting circuit.
5. The fuel tank is filled with an adequate supply of
To do so, leave the negative voltmeter
fresh gasoline.
lead connected to the battery and con-
44
CHAPTER TWO
nect the positive voltmeter lead to the
ground in question.
10
STARTER JUMP TEST
Troubleshooting
The basic starter related troubles are:
1. Starter motor does not spin.
2. Starter motor spins but does not engage.
3. The starter motor will not disengage after the
start button is released.
4. Loud grinding noises when starter motor turns.
5. Starter motor stalls or spins too slowly.
Perform the steps listed under Troubleshooting
Preparation. The following test results must be
Battery
within 1/2 volt of battery voltage.
CAUTION
Never operate the starter motor for
more than 30 seconds at a time. Allow
C Terminal
the starter to cool before reusing it.
Failing to allow the starter motor to
50 Terminal
cool after continuous starting at-
tempts can damage the starter.
Starter motor does not spin
11
1. Turn the ignition switch on and push the starter
button while listening for a click at the starter relay
in the electrical panel. Turn the ignition switch off
and note the following:
a. If the starter relay clicks, test the starter relay
as described under Component Testing in this
section. If the starter relay test readings are
correct, continue with Step 2.
b. If the solenoid clicks, go to Step 3.
c. If there was no click, go to Step 6.
b. If the voltage drop is more than 2 volts, check
2. Check the wiring connectors between the starter
the solenoid and battery wires and connec-
relay and solenoid. Note the following:
tions for dirty or loose fitting terminals; clean
a. Repair any dirty, loose fitting or damaged
and repair as required.
connectors or wiring.
b. If the wiring is okay, remove the starter motor
4.
Remove the starter motor as described in Chap-
as described in Chapter Eight. Perform the so-
ter Eight. Momentarily connect a fully charged
lenoid and starter motor bench tests described
12-volt battery to the starter motor as shown in Fig-
in this section.
ure 10. If the starter motor is operational, it will turn
3. Perform a voltage drop test between the battery
when connected to the battery. Disconnect the bat-
and solenoid terminals as described under Voltage
tery and note the following:
Drop Tests in this section. The normal voltage drop
a. If the starter motor turns, perform the sole-
is less than 2 volts. Note the following:
noid pull-in and hold-in tests as described un-
a. If the voltage drop is less than 2 volts, per-
der Solenoid Testing (Bench Tests) in this
form Step 4.
section.
TROUBLESHOOTING
45
starter relay. The voltmeter must read battery volt-
12
age. Note the following:
a. If battery voltage is noted, continue with Step
7.
2
b. If there is no voltage, go to Step 8.
7. Check the starter relay ground at the starter relay
(Figure 11). Note the following:
a. If the starter relay is properly grounded, test
the starter relay as described in this section.
b. If the starter relay is not grounded, check the
ground connection. Repair the ground con-
nection, then retest.
8. Check for voltage at the starter button. Note the
following:
13
a. If there is voltage at the starter button, test the
starter relay as described in this section.
b. If there is no voltage at the starter button,
check continuity across the starter button. If
there is voltage leading to the starter button
but no voltage leaving the starter button, re-
place the button switch and retest. If there is
no voltage leading to the starter button, check
the starter button wiring for dirty or
loose-fitting terminals or damaged wiring;
clean and/or repair as required.
14
Starter motor spins but does not engage
If the starter motor spins but the pinion gear does
not engage the ring gear, perform the following:
1. Remove the outer primary cover as described in
Chapter Five.
2. Check the pinion gear (A, Figure 12) mounted
on the end of the jackshaft. If the teeth are chipped
or worn, inspect the clutch ring gear (B, Figure 12)
for the same problems. Note the following:
a. If the pinion gear and ring gear are damaged,
service these parts as described in Chapter
b.
If the starter motor does not turn, disassemble
Five.
the starter motor as described in Chapter
b. If the pinion gear and ring gear are not dam-
Eight, and check it for opens, shorts and
aged, continue with Step 3.
grounds.
3. Remove and disassemble the starter motor as de-
5.
If
the problem is not evident after performing
scribed in Chapter Eight. Then check the overrun-
Steps 3 and 4, check the starter shaft to see if it is
ning clutch assembly (Figure 13) for:
binding at the jackshaft. Check the jackshaft for
a. Roller damage (Figure 14).
binding or damage. Refer to Starter Jackshaft in
b. Compression spring damage (A, Figure 15).
Chapter Five.
c. Excessively worn or damaged pinion teeth.
6. If there is no click when performing Step 1, mea-
d. Pinion does not run in overrunning direction.
sure voltage between the starter button and the
e. Damaged clutch shaft splines (B, Figure 15).
46
CHAPTER TWO
f. Damaged overrunning clutch assembly (Fig-
15
ure 16).
4. Replace worn or damaged parts as required.
Starter motor will not disengage
after the start button is released
1. A sticking solenoid, caused by a worn solenoid
compression spring (A, Figure 15), can cause this
problem. Replace the solenoid if damaged.
2. On high-mileage vehicles, the pinion gear (A,
Figure 12) can jam on a worn clutch ring gear (B,
Figure 12). Unable to return, the starter will con-
tinue to run. This condition usually requires ring
16
gear replacement.
3. Check the start switch and starter relay (Figure
11) for internal damage. Test the start switch as de-
scribed under Switches in Chapter Eight. Test the
starter relay as described in this chapter.
Loud grinding noises when
the starter motor turns
Incorrect pinion gear and clutch ring gear engage-
ment (Figure 12) or a broken overrunning clutch
mechanism (Figure 16) can cause this problem. Re-
move and inspect the starter motor as described in
17
Chapter Eight.
Starter motor stalls or spins too slowly
1. Perform a voltage drop test between the battery
and solenoid terminals as described under Voltage
Drop Tests in this section. The normal voltage drop
is less than 2 volts. Note the following:
a. If the voltage drop is less than 2 volts, con-
tinue with Step 2.
b. If the voltage drop exceeds 2 volts, check the
tions for dirty or loose-fitting terminals; clean
solenoid and battery wires and connections
and repair as required.
for dirty or loose-fitting terminals; clean and
3.
Perform a voltage drop test between the battery
repair as required.
ground wire and the starter motor as described under
2. Perform a voltage drop test between the solenoid
Voltage Drop Tests in this section. The normal volt-
terminals and the starter motor as described under
age drop is less than 0.2 volts. Note the following:
Voltage Drop Tests in this section. The normal volt-
a. If the voltage drop is less than 0.2 volts, con-
age drop is less than 2 volts. Note the following:
tinue with Step 4.
a. If the voltage drop is less than 2 volts, con-
b. If the voltage drop exceeds 0.2 volts, check
tinue with Step 3.
the battery ground wire connections for dirty
b. If the voltage drop exceeds 2 volts, check the
or loose-fitting terminals; clean and repair as
solenoid and starter motor wires and connec-
required.
TROUBLESHOOTING
47
4. Perform the Starter Current Draw Test in this
18
section. Note the following:
a. If the current draw is excessive, check for a
damaged starter motor or starter drive assem-
2
bly. Remove the starter motor as described in
Chapter Eight and perform the Free Running
Current Draw Test in this section.
b. If the current draw reading is correct, con-
tinue with Step 5.
5. Remove the outer primary cover as described in
Chapter Five. Check the pinion gear (A, Figure 12).
If the teeth are chipped or worn, inspect the clutch
ring gear (B, Figure 12) for the same problem.
a. If the pinion gear and ring gear are damaged,
19
service these parts as described in Chapter
Five.
b. If the pinion gear and ring gear are not dam-
aged, continue with Step 6.
6. Remove and disassemble the starter motor as de-
scribed in Chapter Eight. Check the disassembled
starter motor for opens, shorts and grounds.
Component Testing
The following sections describe how to test indi-
vidual starting system components. Refer to Chap-
20
ter Eight for starter service.
STARTER RELAY
Starter Relay
Removal/Testing/Installation
Check the starter relay operation with an ohmme-
Ohmmeter
ter, jumper wires and a fully charged 12-volt bat-
87
tery.
85
NOTE
Do not loosen the electrical panel
87A
screws. They are trapped within the
86
30
mounting pin and do not have to be re-
moved.
1. Carefully pull out and remove the electric panel
cover (Figure 17).
2. Remove the nuts securing the outer panel (Fig-
ure 18) and remove the outer panel.
3. Disconnect and remove the starter relay (Figure
19) from the starting circuit.
12-volt battery
4. Connect an ohmmeter and 12-volt battery be-
tween the relay terminals shown in Figure 20. This
setup will energize the relay for testing.
48
CHAPTER TWO
5. Check for continuity through the relay contacts
21
using an ohmmeter while the relay coil is energized.
The correct reading is 0 ohms. If resistance is exces-
sive or if there is no continuity, replace the relay.
6. If the starter relay passes this test, reconnect the
relay.
7. Install the outer panel (Figure 18) and tighten
the nuts.
8. Correctly position the electrical panel cover with
the This side down label facing down (Figure 21).
9. Carefully push the electric panel cover (Figure
17) back into position. Push it on until it bottoms.
Starter Motor Current Draw Tests
22
CURRENT DRAW TEST
The following current draw test measures current
(amperage) that the starter circuit requires to crank
the engine. Refer to Table 1 for current draw speci-
fications.
Induction
A short circuit in the starter motor or a damaged
ammeter
pinion gear assembly can cause excessive current
draw. If the current draw is low, suspect an under-
charged battery or an open circuit in the starting cir-
cuit.
Current draw test (starter motor
Solenoid
mounted on the engine)
NOTE
Battery
This test requires a fully charged bat-
tery and an inductive ammeter.
1. Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL.
Starter
2. Disconnect the two spark plug caps from the
spark plugs. Then ground the plug caps with two ex-
tra spark plugs. Do not remove the spark plugs from
the cylinder heads.
5.
If the current draw exceeds the current
draw
3. Connect an inductive ammeter between the
specification in Table
1, check for a defective
starter motor terminal and positive battery terminal
starter or starter drive mechanism. Remove and ser-
(Figure 22). Connect a jumper cable from the nega-
vice these components as described in Chapter
tive battery terminal to ground (Figure 22).
Eight.
4. Turn the ignition switch on and press the start
6. Disconnect the ammeter and jumper cables.
button for approximately 10 seconds. Note the am-
meter reading.
Current draw test (starter motor
removed from the engine)
NOTE
The current draw is high when the
This test requires a fully charged 12-volt battery,
start button is first pressed, then it will
drop and stabilize at a lower reading.
an inductive ammeter, a jumper wire (14 gauge
Refer to the lower stabilized reading
minimum) and 3 jumper cables (6 gauge mini-
during this test.
mum).
TROUBLESHOOTING
49
23
24
FREE RUNNING
CURRENT DRAW TEST
2
Ammeter
M terminal
charged battery or an open field winding or
50 terminal
armature in the starter motor.
Solenoid Testing
(Bench Tests)
This test requires a fully charged 12-volt battery
and three jumper wires.
Battery
Starter mounting flange
1. Remove the starter motor (A, Figure 24) as de-
scribed in Chapter Nine.
NOTE
The solenoid (B, Figure 24) must be
1. Remove the starter motor as described in Chap-
installed on the starter motor during
ter Eight.
the following tests. Do not remove it.
NOTE
The solenoid must be installed on the
2. Disconnect the C field wire terminal (C, Figure
starter motor during the following
24) from the solenoid before performing the follow-
tests.
ing tests. Insulate the end of the wire terminal so
that it cannot short out on any of the test connectors.
2. Mount the starter motor in a vise with soft jaws.
3. Connect the 14-gauge jumper cable between the
CAUTION
positive battery terminal and the solenoid 50 termi-
Because battery voltage is being ap-
nal (Figure 23).
plied directly to the solenoid and
starter in the following tests, do not
4. Connect a jumper cable (6-gauge minimum) be-
leave the jumper cables connected to
tween the positive battery terminal and the ammeter
the solenoid for more than 3-5 sec-
(Figure 23).
onds; otherwise, the voltage will dam-
5. Connect the second jumper cable between the
age the solenoid.
ammeter and the M terminal on the starter solenoid
(Figure 23).
NOTE
6. Connect the third jumper cable between the bat-
Thoroughly read the following proce-
tery ground terminal and the starter motor mounting
dure to familiarize and understand
flange (Figure 23).
the procedures and test connections.
7. Read the ammeter, the correct ammeter reading
Then perform the tests in the order
is 90 amps. A damaged pinion gear assembly will
listed and without interruption.
cause an excessively high current draw reading. If
the current draw reading is low, check for an under-
3. Perform the solenoid pull-in test as follows:
50
CHAPTER TWO
25
26
SOLENOID PULL-IN TEST
SOLENOID HOLD-IN TEST
C terminal
C terminal
Solenoid
Solenoid
Battery
Battery
Starter
Starter
50 terminal
50 terminal
a. Connect 1 jumper wire from the negative bat-
tery terminal to the solenoid C terminal (Fig-
27
SOLENOID RETURN TEST
ure 25).
b. Connect 1 jumper wire from the negative bat-
tery terminal to the solenoid housing (ground)
(Figure 25).
C terminal
c. Touch a jumper wire from the positive battery
terminal to the starter 50 terminal (Figure
Solenoid
25). The pinion shaft (D, Figure 24) must pull
into the housing.
Battery
d. Leave the jumper wires connected and con-
tinue with Step 4.
4. To perform the solenoid hold-in test, perform the
Starter
following:
50 terminal
a. With the pinion shaft pulled in (Step 3), dis-
connect the C terminal jumper wire from the
negative battery terminal and connect it to the
6. Replace the solenoid if the starter shaft failed to
positive battery terminal (Figure 26). The
operate as described in Steps 3-5. See Solenoid Re-
pinion shaft will remain in the housing. If the
placement in Chapter Eight.
pinion shaft returns to its out position, replace
the solenoid.
CHARGING SYSTEM
b. Leave the jumper wires connected and con-
tinue with Step 5.
The charging system consists of the battery, al-
5. To perform the solenoid return test, perform the
ternator and a solid state rectifier/voltage regula-
following:
tor.
a. Disconnect the jumper wire from the starter
The alternator generates alternating current (AC)
50 terminal (Figure 27); the pinion shaft must
which the rectifier converts to direct current (DC).
return to its out position.
The regulator maintains the voltage to the battery at
b. Disconnect all of the jumper wires from the
a constant level despite variations in engine speed
solenoid and battery.
and load.
TROUBLESHOOTING
51
8. Do not mount the voltage regulator/rectifier unit
28
in another location.
9. Make sure the negative battery terminal is con-
nected to the engine and frame.
2
Troubleshooting
If the battery is discharged, perform the following
procedure.
1. Test the battery as described in Chapter Eight.
Charge the battery if required. If the battery will
hold a charge, continue with Step 2.
29
2. Perform the regulator ground test.
Testing
If charging system trouble is suspected, first
check the battery charge. Clean and test the battery
as described in Chapter Eight. If the battery is fully
charged, test the charging system as follows.
If the battery discharges while riding the motor-
cycle, perform the Voltage Regulator/Rectifier Test .
Also refer to Current Drain Test (Battery Dis-
A malfunction in the charging system generally
charges While Riding the Motorcycle).
causes the battery to remain undercharged.
If the battery discharges while the motorcycle is
not running, perform the Current Drain Test (Bat-
tery Discharges While the Motorcycle is Not Run-
Service Precautions
ning) test.
Before servicing the charging system, observe
the following precautions to prevent damage to any
Voltage Regulator
charging system component.
Ground Test
1. Never reverse battery connections.
2. Do not short across any connection.
The voltage regulator base (Figure 28) must be
grounded to the frame for proper operation.
3. Never start the engine with the alternator discon-
nected from the voltage regulator/rectifier, unless
1. Switch an ohmmeter to the R×1 scale.
instructed to do so during testing.
2. Connect one ohmmeter lead to a good engine or
4. Never attempt to start or run the engine with the
frame ground and the other ohmmeter lead to the
battery disconnected.
regulator base. Read the ohmmeter scale. The cor-
rect reading is 0 ohm. Note the following:
5. Never attempt to use a high-output battery
charger to help start the engine.
a. If there is low resistance (0 ohm), the voltage
6. Before charging the battery, remove it from the
regulator is properly grounded.
motorcycle as described in Chapter Eight.
b. If there is high resistance, remove the voltage
7. Never disconnect the voltage regulator/rectifier
regulator and clean its frame mounting
connector with the engine running. The voltage reg-
points.
ulator/rectifier (Figure 28) is mounted on the front
3. Check that the voltage regulator connector plug
frame down tubes.
(Figure 29) is clean and tightly connected.
52
CHAPTER TWO
Voltage Regulator Bleed Test
30
CHECKING CURRENT DRAW
This test requires a 12-volt test lamp. This tool re-
WITH IGNITION SWITCH OFF
lies on the vehicle’s battery to supply power to the
component being tested.
Negative lead (black)
1. Disconnect the voltage regulator connector from
the engine crankcase (Figure 29).
NOTE
Do not disconnect the wire from the
voltage regulator to the 30-amp cir-
cuit breaker.
2. Connect one test lamp probe to a good frame or
Positive lead
engine ground.
(red)
3. Connect the other test lamp probe to one of the
To ground
voltage regulator pins, then to the other pin.
4. If the test lamp lights, replace the voltage regula-
tor.
5. If the voltage regulator passes this test, recon-
31
nect the voltage regulator connector at the engine
LOAD TEST
crankcase.
Current Drain Test
(Battery Discharges While
the Motorcycle is Not Running)
Battery
Load
tester
Accessory items that require voltage when the en-
gine is not running will eventually drain the battery.
Perform the following steps to check current drain
when the ignition switch and all of the lights are
turned off. A drain that exceeds 3 milliamperes
(mA) will discharge the battery. This test requires a
fully charged 12-volt battery.
trical connectors carefully before testing
the
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the
individual component.
battery.
6. After completing the test, disconnect the amme-
2. Connect an ammeter between the negative bat-
ter and reconnect the negative battery cable.
tery terminal and the battery ground cable as shown
in Figure 30.
3. With the ignition switch, lights and all accesso-
Current Drain Test
ries turned off, read the ammeter. If the current drain
(Battery Discharges While
exceeds 3 mA, continue with Step 4.
Riding the Motorcycle)
4. Refer to the wiring diagram at the end of the
manual, for the model being worked on. Check the
This test measures the current draw or load of the
charging system wires and connectors for shorts or
motorcycle’s electrical system. A load tester is re-
other damage.
quired for this test. Perform this test if the battery
5. Unplug each electrical connector separately and
keeps being discharged, yet the charging system is
check for a change in the meter reading. If the meter
working correctly.
reading changes after disconnecting a connector,
The charging system is designed to provide cur-
the damaged circuit has been found. Check the elec-
rent to meet the demands of the original equipment
TROUBLESHOOTING
53
4. If aftermarket accessories have been added to
32
the motorcycle, disconnect them and repeat Step 2.
If the current draw is now within the specification,
the problem is with the additional accessories.
2
5. If no accessories have been added to the motor-
cycle, a short circuit may be causing the battery to
discharge.
Charging System Output Test
This test requires a load tester.
1. To perform this test, the battery must be fully
charged.
Load tester
NOTE
When using a load tester, read and fol-
low its manufacturer’s instructions.
To prevent tester damage from over-
heating, do not leave the load switch
ON for more than 20 seconds at a
time.
2. Connect the load tester negative and positive
To circuit breaker
leads to the battery terminals. Then place the load
(DC output)
tester’s induction pickup over the wire connecting
the 30 amp circuit breaker to the voltage regulator
(Figure 32).
3. Start the engine and slowly bring the speed up to
(OE) installed on the motorcycle. If aftermarket ac-
2000 rpm while reading the load tester scale. With
cessories have been installed, the increased current
the engine running at 3000 rpm, operate the load
demand may exceed the charging systems capacity
tester switch until the voltage scale reads 13.0 volts.
and result in a discharged battery.
The tester must show an alternator current output
reading of 26-32 amps.
NOTE
4. With the engine still running at 3000 rpm, turn
When using a load tester, read and fol-
the load switch off and read the load tester voltage
low its manufacturer’s instructions.
scale. Battery voltage must not exceed 15 volts.
To prevent tester damage from over-
heating, do not leave the load switch
Turn the engine off and disconnect the load tester
ON for more than 20 seconds at a
from the motorcycle.
time.
5. Perform the Stator Test described in this chapter.
If the stator tests acceptable a defective voltage reg-
1. Connect a load tester to the battery as shown in
ulator/rectifier (Figure 28) or a wiring short circuit
Figure 31.
is indicated.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (but do not start the
Make sure to eliminate the possibility of a poor
engine). Then turn on all electrical accessories and
connection or damaged wiring before replacing the
switch the headlight beam to HIGH.
voltage regulator/rectifier.
3. Read the ampere reading (current draw) on the
load tester and compare it to the test results obtained
Stator Test
in the Charging System Output Test in this chapter.
The charging system output test results (current
1. With the ignition switch turned OFF, disconnect
reading) must exceed the current draw by 3.5 amps
the regulator/rectifier connector from the crankcase
for the battery to remain sufficiently charged.
(Figure 29).
54
CHAPTER TWO
33
34
CHECKING ALTERNATOR
OUTPUT
Ohmmeter
To ground
AC
voltmeter
2. Switch an ohmmeter to its R×1 scale. Then con-
nect it between either stator socket, at the crankcase,
and ground (Figure 33). The correct ohmmeter
reading is infinity. Any other reading suggests a
grounded stator. Repeat this test for the other stator
socket.
the wiring diagrams at the end of this book for the
3. Switch an ohmmeter to its R×1 scale. Then con-
specific model and year being worked on.
nect it between both stator sockets (at the crank-
Because of the solid state design, problems with
case). The correct ohmmeter reading is 0.1-0.2
the transistorized system are rare. If a problem oc-
ohm. If resistance is not as specified, replace the
curs, it generally causes a weak spark or no spark at
stator.
all. An ignition system with a weak spark or no
4. Check stator AC voltage output as follows:
spark is relatively easy to troubleshoot. It is diffi-
a. Connect an AC voltmeter across the stator
cult, however, to troubleshoot an ignition system
pins as shown in Figure 34.
that only malfunctions when the engine is hot or un-
b. Start the engine and slowly increase engine
der load.
speed. The correct voltmeter reading is 16-20
All models are equipped with an on-board diag-
volts AC per each 1000 rpm. For example, if
nostic system. Troubleshooting this system by non
the engine is running at 2000 rpm, the correct
Harley-Davidson personnel is limited to trouble
AC output reading is 32-40 volts AC.
code retrieval.
Retrieving the trouble code(s) will indicate where
NOTE
a fault(s) has occurred. Further testing requires sev-
Figure 35 is shown with the engine
eral Harley-Davidson special tools that are avail-
removed to better illustrate the step.
able only to H-D dealers.
If a fault has occurred, have the diagnostic proce-
c. If the AC voltage output reading is below the
dures performed at a H-D dealership.
specified range, the trouble is probably a de-
fective stator (Figure 35) or rotor. If these
NOTE
parts are not damaged, perform the Charging
The H-D Scanalyzer and Breakout
System Output Test in this section.
Box are not available for purchase.
5. Reconnect the regulator/rectifier connector.
Ignition System Precautions
IGNITION SYSTEM
Certain measures must be taken to protect the ig-
All models are equipped with a transistorized ig-
nition system.
nition system. This solid state system uses no con-
1. Never disconnect any of the electrical connec-
tact breaker points or other moving parts. Refer to
tors while the engine is running.
TROUBLESHOOTING
55
35
36
2
2. Apply dielectric grease to all electrical connec-
Diagnostic Trouble Codes
tors prior to reconnecting them. This will help seal
out moisture.
The Dyna-Glide on-board diagnostic system
3. Make sure all electrical connectors are free of
identifies faults and stores this information as a
corrosion and are completely coupled to each other.
two-digit diagnostic trouble code. If more than one
4. The ignition module must always be mounted
fault is found it also sets that fault.
securely to the backside of the electrical panel.
If a trouble code has been set, the check-engine
light will come on. During normal operation, the
check engine light will illuminate for approxi-
Troubleshooting Preparation
mately four seconds when the ignition is turned ON.
The check-engine light then turns off and remains
1. Refer to the wiring diagram for the specific
off. If a diagnostic trouble code(s) has been set, the
model being worked on at the end of this book when
check-engine light turns on for four seconds, turns
performing the following.
off, and then turns back on for eight seconds or re-
2. Check the wiring harness for visible signs of
mains on beyond the eight second period.
damage.
Trouble codes are retrieved by counting the num-
3. Make sure all connectors are properly attached
ber of times the check-engine light flashes.
to each other and locked in place.
4. Check all electrical components for a good
ground to the engine.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes (Retrieving)
5. Check all wiring for short circuits or open cir-
cuits.
Diagnostic trouble codes are displayed as a series
6. Check for a damaged ignition circuit breaker
of flashes at the check-engine light on the speedom-
(Figure 36) located behind the electric panel.
eter face. To retrieve the stored codes, a jumper wire
7. Make sure the fuel tank has an adequate supply
made of 18-gauge wire and two Deutsch sockets
of fresh gasoline.
(H-D part No. 72191-94), as shown in Figure 37,
8. Check spark plug cable routing and their con-
are required
nections at the spark plugs. If there is no spark or
To retrieve the diagnostic trouble code(s), per-
only a weak one, repeat the test with new spark
form the following:
plugs. If the condition remains the same with new
1. Remove the seat as described in Chapter Thir-
spark plugs and if all external wiring connections
teen.
are good, the problem is most likely in the ignition
system. If a strong spark is present, the problem is
NOTE
probably not in the ignition system. Check the fuel
Do not loosen the electrical panel
system.
screws. They are trapped within the
9. Remove the spark plugs and examine them as
mounting pin and do not have to be re-
described in Chapter Three.
moved.
56
CHAPTER TWO
37
2 in.
2. Carefully pull out and remove the electric panel
cover (Figure 17).
38
3. Remove the nuts securing the outer panel (Fig-
ure 18) and remove the outer panel.
4. Remove the data link connector (A, Figure 38)
from the holder on the electrical panel.
5. Remove the protective cover (B, Figure 38)
from the data link connector.
6. Install the jumper wire onto pins No. 1 (light
green/red) and No. 2 (black) on the data link con-
nector (Figure 39).
7. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Af-
ter approximately eight seconds, the different sys-
tems enter the diagnostic codes.
39
a. The check engine light begins with a ready
signal, which is a series of six rapid flashes,
approximately three per second. The ready
signal indicates that the check engine light is
ready to flash a diagnostic trouble code.
b. This is followed by a two-second pause.
c. The system then flashes the first digit of the
stored diagnostic trouble code. The
check-engine light will illuminate for one
second and then turn off for one second.
Count the number of flashes and record the
number. For example, two blinks indicates
f.
The system will pause for two seconds, and
the first digit is two.
then flashes the first digit of the next diag-
d. The system will pause for two seconds and
nostic trouble code, followed by the second
then flash the second digit of the diagnostic
digit.
trouble code. Count the number of flashes,
and record this number. For example, five
8.
The system displays the stored codes, sequen-
blinks indicates the second digit is five. This
tially, one at a time, until each diagnostic trouble
indicates that the first trouble code is twenty
code has been displayed. The system then repeats.
five, or a problem with the rear ignition coil.
The check-engine light will continue to flash out
e. If more than one trouble code is present, the
stored codes until the jumper wire is disconnected.
system will pause for two seconds and then
When the codes repeat, this indicates that all stored
flash the ready signal, which is a series of six
codes have been displayed. Turn the ignition switch
rapid flashes. It is now ready to flash the next
to the OFF position and remove the jumper wire
trouble code.
from the data link connector.
TROUBLESHOOTING
57
40
42
IGNITION COIL
CIRCUIT TESTS
2
Secondary terminals
Ohmmeter
41
Primary terminals
Ignition Module Testing and Replacement
If the ignition module is suspected of being de-
fective, have it tested by a H-D dealership before
purchasing a replacement. The cost of the test will
not exceed the cost of replacing an ignition module
that may not repair the problem. Most parts suppli-
ers will not accept returns on electrical compo-
nents.
9. Refer to Table 3 for diagnostic trouble codes,
and check the component indicated. If multiple
codes have been sent, troubleshoot the lowest num-
Ignition Coil Testing
bered code first. The source of subsequent codes
Use an ohmmeter to check the ignition coil sec-
may be the same malfunction that has caused the
ondary and primary resistance. Test the coil twice:
first.
first when it is cold (room temperature) and then at
10. Install the protective cover onto the data link
normal operating temperature. If the engine will not
connector (B, Figure 38) and fit the data link con-
start, heat the coil with a hair dryer, then test with
nector (A, Figure 38) onto the holder on the electri-
the ohmmeter.
cal panel.
1. Remove the seat as described in Chapter Thir-
11. Install the outer panel (Figure 18) and tighten
teen.
the nuts.
2. Disconnect the secondary (Figure 40) and pri-
12. Correctly position the electrical panel cover
mary wire connector (Figure 41) from the ignition
with the This side down label facing down (Figure
coil.
21).
NOTE
13. Carefully push the electric panel cover (Figure
When switching between ohmmeter
17) back into position. Push it on until it bottoms.
scales in the following tests, always
14. Install the seat.
cross the test leads and zero the nee-
dle to assure a correct reading (ana-
log meter only).
Diagnostic Trouble Codes (Clearing)
3. Set an ohmmeter on R ×1. Measure the ignition
The trouble codes can only be cleared by a
coil primary resistance between the coil primary
Harley-Davidson dealership.
terminals (Figure 42). Compare the reading to the
58
CHAPTER TWO
specification in Table 2. Replace the ignition coil if
43
the reading is not within specification.
4. Set the ohmmeter on its highest scale. Measure
the resistance between the secondary terminals
(Figure 42). Compare the reading to the specifica-
tion in Table 2. Replace the ignition coil if the read-
ing is not within specification.
Ignition Coil Cables and Caps
Inspection
All Dyna Glide models are equipped with resis-
44
tor- or suppression-type spark plug cables (Figure
43). These cables reduce radio interference. The ca-
ble’s conductor consists of a carbon-impregnated
fabric core material instead of solid wire.
If a plug cable becomes damaged, either due to
corrosion or conductor breaks, its resistance in-
creases. Excessive cable resistance will cause en-
gine misfire and other ignition or driveability
problems.
When troubleshooting the ignition system, in-
spect the spark plug cables (Figure 44) for:
1. Corroded or damaged connector ends.
Identifying Carburetor Conditions
2. Breaks in the cable insulation that could allow
Refer to the following conditions
to
identify
arcing.
whether the engine is running lean or rich.
3. Split or damaged plug caps that could allow arc-
ing to the cylinder heads.
Rich
Replace damaged or questionable spark plug ca-
bles.
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Engine misfires and runs rough under load.
3. Excessive exhaust smoke as the throttle is in-
FUEL SYSTEM
creased.
4. An extreme rich condition results in a choked or
Many riders automatically assume that the carbu-
dull sound from the exhaust and an inability to clear
retor is at fault when the engine does not run prop-
the exhaust with the throttle held wide open.
erly. While fuel system problems are not
uncommon, carburetor adjustment is seldom the an-
swer. In many cases, adjusting will only compound
Lean
the problem by making the engine run worse.
1. Blistered or very white spark plug electrodes.
Begin fuel system troubleshooting with the fuel
2. Engine overheats.
tank and work through the system, reserving the
3. Slow acceleration, engine power is reduced.
carburetor as the final point. Most fuel system prob-
lems result from an empty fuel tank, a plugged fuel
4. Flat spots on acceleration that are similar in feel
filter or fuel valve, sour fuel, a dirty air filter or
to when the engine starts to run out of gas.
clogged carburetor jets.
5. Engine speed fluctuates at full throttle.
TROUBLESHOOTING
59
pushed against the seat to prevent the float bowl
45
FUEL LEVEL SYSTEM
from overfilling.
If the fuel valve fails to close, the engine will run
too rich or flood with fuel. Symptoms of this prob-
2
lem are rough running, excessive black smoke and
poor acceleration. This condition will sometimes
clear up when the engine is run at wide-open throt-
tle, as the fuel is being drawn into the engine before
the float bowl can overfill. As the engine speed is
reduced, however, the rich-running condition re-
turns.
Several things can cause fuel overflow. In most
instances, it can be as simple as a small piece of dirt
trapped between the fuel valve and seat or an incor-
Float
bowl
rect float level. If fuel is flowing out of the overflow
vent
tube connected to the bottom of the float bowl, the
Fuel
fuel valve inside the carburetor is being held open.
inlet
First check the position of the fuel shutoff valve le-
(from side)
ver. Turn the fuel shutoff valve lever OFF. Then
lightly tap on the carburetor float bowl and turn the
fuel shutoff valve lever ON. If the fuel flow stops
running out of the overflow tube, whatever was
holding the fuel valve off of its seat has been dis-
Inlet
valve
lodged. If fuel continues to flow from the overflow
tube, remove and service the carburetor. See Chap-
Float
ter Seven.
Overflow
line
NOTE
Fuel will not flow from the vac-
uum-operated fuel shutoff valve until
the engine is running.
Troubleshooting
Isolate fuel system problems to the fuel tank, fuel
Starting enrichment (choke) system
shutoff valve and filter, fuel hoses, external fuel fil-
ter (if used) or carburetor. The following procedures
A cold engine requires a rich mixture to start and
assume that the ignition system is working properly
run properly. On all models, a cable-actuated starter
and is correctly adjusted.
enrichment valve is used for cold starting.
If the engine is difficult to start when cold, check
the starting enrichment (choke) cable adjustment
Fuel level system
described in Chapter Three.
The fuel level system is shown in Figure 45.
Proper carburetor operation depends on a constant
Accelerator pump system
and correct carburetor fuel level. As fuel is drawn
from the float bowl during engine operation, the
During sudden throttle openings the diaphragm
float level in the bowl drops. As the float drops, the
type accelerator pump system (Figure 46) provides
fuel valve moves away from its seat and allows fuel
additional fuel to the engine. Without this system
to flow through the seat into the float bowl. Fuel en-
the carburetor would not be able to provide a suffi-
tering the float bowl will cause the float to rise and
cient amount of fuel.
push against the fuel valve. When the fuel level
The system consists of a spring loaded neoprene
reaches a predetermined level, the fuel valve is
diaphragm that is compressed during sudden accel-
Большое спасибо!
Ваше мнение очень важно для нас.
Нет комментариевНе стесняйтесь поделиться с нами вашим ценным мнением.
Текст