| | | ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 40 CHAPTER TWO 2. Cover the spark plug hole with a clean shop cloth 3 to lessen the chance of gasoline vapors being emit- ted from the hole. 3. Insert the spark plug (Figure 3), or spark tester (Figure 4), into its plug cap and ground the spark plug base against the cylinder head. Position the spark plug so the electrode is visible. NOTE If a spark plug is used, perform the procedure with a new spark plug. WARNING Mount the spark plug, or tester, away from the spark plug hole in the cylin- 4 der so the spark cannot ignite the gas- oline vapors in the cylinder. If the engine is flooded, do not perform this test. The firing of the spark plug can ignite fuel that is ejected through the spark plug hole. 4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. WARNING Do not hold the spark plug, wire or connector, or a serious electrical shock may result. 1. Fouled spark plug(s). 5. Turn the engine over with the electric starter. A 2. Improperly adjusted enrichener valve. crisp blue spark should be evident across the spark 3. Intake manifold air leak. plug electrode or spark tester terminals. If there is 4. A plugged fuel tank filler cap. strong sunlight on the plug, shade the plug by hand to better see the spark. 5. Clogged carburetor fuel line. 6. If the spark is good, check for one or more of the 6. Contaminated fuel system. following possible malfunctions: 7. An improperly adjusted carburetor. a. Obstructed fuel line or fuel filter. 8. A defective ignition module. b. Low compression or engine damage. 9. A defective ignition coil. c. Flooded engine. 7. If the spark is weak or if there is no spark, refer to 10. Damaged ignition coil primary and secondary Engine is Difficult to Start in this chapter. wires (Figure 5). 11. Incorrect ignition timing. NOTE 12. Low engine compression. If the engine backfires during starting attempts, the ignition timing may be 13. Engine oil too heavy (winter temperatures). incorrect due to a defective ignition 14. Discharged battery. component. Refer to Ignition Timing in Chapter Three for more informa- 15. A defective starter motor. tion. 16. Loose or corroded starter and/or battery cables. 17. A loose ignition sensor and module electrical Engine is Difficult to Start connector. Check for one or more of the following possible 18. Incorrect pushrod length (intake and exhaust malfunctions: valve pushrods interchanged). ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TROUBLESHOOTING 41 7. Incorrect carburetor float level. 5 Engine Runs but Misfires 2 1. Fouled or improperly gapped spark plugs. 2. Damaged spark plug cables. 3. Incorrect ignition timing. 4. Defective ignition components. 5. An obstructed fuel line or fuel shutoff valve. 6. Obstructed fuel filter. 7. Clogged carburetor jets. 8. Loose battery connection. Engine Will Not Crank 9. Wiring or connector damage. 10. Water or other contaminants in fuel. Check for one or more of the following possible 11. Weak or damaged valve springs. malfunctions: 12. Incorrect camshaft/valve timing. 1. Ignition switch turned OFF. 13. A damaged valve(s). 2. A defective ignition switch. 14. Dirty electrical connections. 3. Run switch in OFF position. 15. Intake manifold or carburetor air leak. 4. A defective engine run switch. 16. A plugged carburetor vent hose. 5. Loose or corroded starter and battery cables (so- 17. Plugged fuel tank vent system. lenoid chatters). 6. Discharged or defective battery. Engine Overheating 7. A defective starter motor. 8. A defective starter solenoid. 1. Incorrect carburetor adjustment or jet selection. 9. A defective starter shaft pinion gear. 2. Incorrect ignition timing or defective ignition 10. Slipping overrunning clutch assembly. system components. 11. A seized piston(s). 3. Improper spark plug heat range. 12. Seized crankshaft bearings. 4. Damaged or blocked cooling fins. 13. A broken connecting rod. 5. Low oil level. 6. Oil not circulating properly. ENGINE PERFORMANCE 7. Leaking valves. 8. Heavy engine carbon deposits. In the following check list, it is assumed that the engine runs, but is not operating at peak perfor- Engine Runs Roughly with mance. This will serve as a starting point from Excessive Exhaust Smoke which to isolate a performance malfunction. 1. Clogged air filter element. Fouled Spark Plugs 2. Incorrect rich carburetor adjustment. 3. Choke not operating correctly. If the spark plugs continually foul, check for the 4. Water or other contaminants in fuel. following: 5. Clogged fuel line. 1. Severely contaminated air filter element. 6. Spark plugs fouled. 2. Incorrect spark plug heat range. See Chapter 7. A defective ignition coil. Three. 8. A defective ignition module or sensor(s). 3. Rich fuel mixture. 9. Loose or defective ignition circuit wire. 4. Worn or damaged piston rings. 10. Short circuits from damaged wire insulation. 5. Worn or damaged valve guide oil seals. 11. Loose battery cable connections. 6. Excessive valve stem-to-guide clearance. 12. Incorrect camshaft/valve timing. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 42 CHAPTER TWO 6 STARTER/SOLENOID 7 VOLTAGE DROP TEST TERMINALS (SOLENOID CIRCUIT) M terminal C terminal 0.1 amp Start switch Field wire 0.1 amp 20 amp Relay Ignition circuit breaker VOM Ignition switch Starte Main circuit 50 terminal breaker Solenoid 150 amp Battery 13. Intake manifold or air filter air leaks. 150 amp Starter Engine Loses Power 1. Incorrect carburetor (lean) adjustment. 2. Engine overheating. 3. Incorrect ignition timing. 4. Incorrectly gapped spark plugs. ELECTRIC STARTING SYSTEM 5. An obstructed muffler. 6. Dragging brake(s). The starting system consists of the battery, starter motor, starter relay, solenoid, start switch, starter Engine Lacks Acceleration mechanism and related wiring. When the ignition switch is turned on and the 1. Incorrect carburetor adjustment. start button is pushed in, current is transmitted from 2. Clogged fuel line. the battery to the starter relay. When the relay is ac- 3. Incorrect ignition timing. tivated, it in turn activates the starter solenoid that 4. Dragging brake(s). mechanically engages the starter with the engine. Starting system problems are most often related to a loose or corroded electrical connection. Valve Train Noise Refer to Figure 6 for starter motor and solenoid terminal identification. 1. A bent pushrod(s). 2. A defective hydraulic lifter(s). 3. A bent valve. Troubleshooting Preparation 4. Rocker arm seizure or damage (binding on shaft). Before troubleshooting the starting system, check 5. Worn or damaged camshaft gear bushing(s). the following: 6. Worn or damaged camshaft gear(s). 1. Make sure the battery is fully charged. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TROUBLESHOOTING 43 6. The spark plugs are in good condition and prop- 8 erly gapped. 7. The ignition system is working correctly. 2 Voltage Drop Test Before performing the steps listed under Trouble- shooting, perform this voltage drop test. These steps will help find weak or damaged electrical compo- nents that may be causing the starting system prob- lem. A voltmeter is required to test voltage drop. 1. To check voltage drop in the solenoid circuit, connect the positive voltmeter lead to the positive 9 battery terminal; connect the negative voltmeter VOLTAGE DROP TEST lead to the solenoid (Figure 7). (STARTER GROUND CIRCUIT) NOTE 0.1 amp The voltmeter lead must not touch the Start switch starter-to-solenoid terminal. Figure 8 0.1 amp shows the solenoid terminal with the 20 amp starter/solenoid removed to better il- Relay lustrate the step. Ignition circuit breaker 2. Turn the ignition switch on and push the starter VOM button while reading the voltmeter scale. Note the Ignition switch following: a. The circuit is operating correctly if the volt- Main circuit meter reading is 2 volts or less. A voltmeter breaker reading of 12 volts indicates an open circuit. b. A voltage drop of more than 2 volts shows a problem in the solenoid circuit. Solenoid 150 amp c. If the voltage drop reading is correct, con- Battery 150 amp tinue with Step 3. 3. To check the starter motor ground circuit, con- Starter nect the negative voltmeter lead to the negative bat- tery terminal; connect the positive voltmeter lead to the starter motor housing (Figure 9). 4. Turn the ignition switch on and push the starter button while reading the voltmeter scale. The volt- age drop must not exceed 0.2 volts. If it does, check the ground connections between the meter leads. 2. Battery cables are the proper size and length. Re- 5. If the problem is not found, refer to Trouble- place damaged or undersized cables. shooting in the following section. 3. All electrical connections are clean and tight. High resistance caused from dirty or loose connec- NOTE Steps 3 and 4 check the voltage drop tors can affect voltage and current levels. across the starter motor ground cir- 4. The wiring harness is in good condition, with no cuit. Repeat this test to check any worn or frayed insulation or loose harness sockets. ground circuit in the starting circuit. 5. The fuel tank is filled with an adequate supply of To do so, leave the negative voltmeter fresh gasoline. lead connected to the battery and con- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 44 CHAPTER TWO nect the positive voltmeter lead to the ground in question. 10 STARTER JUMP TEST Troubleshooting The basic starter related troubles are: 1. Starter motor does not spin. 2. Starter motor spins but does not engage. 3. The starter motor will not disengage after the start button is released. 4. Loud grinding noises when starter motor turns. 5. Starter motor stalls or spins too slowly. Perform the steps listed under Troubleshooting Preparation. The following test results must be Battery within 1/2 volt of battery voltage. CAUTION Never operate the starter motor for more than 30 seconds at a time. Allow C Terminal the starter to cool before reusing it. Failing to allow the starter motor to 50 Terminal cool after continuous starting at- tempts can damage the starter. Starter motor does not spin 11 1. Turn the ignition switch on and push the starter button while listening for a click at the starter relay in the electrical panel. Turn the ignition switch off and note the following: a. If the starter relay clicks, test the starter relay as described under Component Testing in this section. If the starter relay test readings are correct, continue with Step 2. b. If the solenoid clicks, go to Step 3. c. If there was no click, go to Step 6. b. If the voltage drop is more than 2 volts, check 2. Check the wiring connectors between the starter the solenoid and battery wires and connec- relay and solenoid. Note the following: tions for dirty or loose fitting terminals; clean a. Repair any dirty, loose fitting or damaged and repair as required. connectors or wiring. b. If the wiring is okay, remove the starter motor 4. Remove the starter motor as described in Chap- as described in Chapter Eight. Perform the so- ter Eight. Momentarily connect a fully charged lenoid and starter motor bench tests described 12-volt battery to the starter motor as shown in Fig- in this section. ure 10. If the starter motor is operational, it will turn 3. Perform a voltage drop test between the battery when connected to the battery. Disconnect the bat- and solenoid terminals as described under Voltage tery and note the following: Drop Tests in this section. The normal voltage drop a. If the starter motor turns, perform the sole- is less than 2 volts. Note the following: noid pull-in and hold-in tests as described un- a. If the voltage drop is less than 2 volts, per- der Solenoid Testing (Bench Tests) in this form Step 4. section. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TROUBLESHOOTING 45 starter relay. The voltmeter must read battery volt- 12 age. Note the following: a. If battery voltage is noted, continue with Step 7. 2 b. If there is no voltage, go to Step 8. 7. Check the starter relay ground at the starter relay (Figure 11). Note the following: a. If the starter relay is properly grounded, test the starter relay as described in this section. b. If the starter relay is not grounded, check the ground connection. Repair the ground con- nection, then retest. 8. Check for voltage at the starter button. Note the following: 13 a. If there is voltage at the starter button, test the starter relay as described in this section. b. If there is no voltage at the starter button, check continuity across the starter button. If there is voltage leading to the starter button but no voltage leaving the starter button, re- place the button switch and retest. If there is no voltage leading to the starter button, check the starter button wiring for dirty or loose-fitting terminals or damaged wiring; clean and/or repair as required. 14 Starter motor spins but does not engage If the starter motor spins but the pinion gear does not engage the ring gear, perform the following: 1. Remove the outer primary cover as described in Chapter Five. 2. Check the pinion gear (A, Figure 12) mounted on the end of the jackshaft. If the teeth are chipped or worn, inspect the clutch ring gear (B, Figure 12) for the same problems. Note the following: a. If the pinion gear and ring gear are damaged, service these parts as described in Chapter b. If the starter motor does not turn, disassemble Five. the starter motor as described in Chapter b. If the pinion gear and ring gear are not dam- Eight, and check it for opens, shorts and aged, continue with Step 3. grounds. 3. Remove and disassemble the starter motor as de- 5. If the problem is not evident after performing scribed in Chapter Eight. Then check the overrun- Steps 3 and 4, check the starter shaft to see if it is ning clutch assembly (Figure 13) for: binding at the jackshaft. Check the jackshaft for a. Roller damage (Figure 14). binding or damage. Refer to Starter Jackshaft in b. Compression spring damage (A, Figure 15). Chapter Five. c. Excessively worn or damaged pinion teeth. 6. If there is no click when performing Step 1, mea- d. Pinion does not run in overrunning direction. sure voltage between the starter button and the e. Damaged clutch shaft splines (B, Figure 15). ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 46 CHAPTER TWO f. Damaged overrunning clutch assembly (Fig- 15 ure 16). 4. Replace worn or damaged parts as required. Starter motor will not disengage after the start button is released 1. A sticking solenoid, caused by a worn solenoid compression spring (A, Figure 15), can cause this problem. Replace the solenoid if damaged. 2. On high-mileage vehicles, the pinion gear (A, Figure 12) can jam on a worn clutch ring gear (B, Figure 12). Unable to return, the starter will con- tinue to run. This condition usually requires ring 16 gear replacement. 3. Check the start switch and starter relay (Figure 11) for internal damage. Test the start switch as de- scribed under Switches in Chapter Eight. Test the starter relay as described in this chapter. Loud grinding noises when the starter motor turns Incorrect pinion gear and clutch ring gear engage- ment (Figure 12) or a broken overrunning clutch mechanism (Figure 16) can cause this problem. Re- move and inspect the starter motor as described in 17 Chapter Eight. Starter motor stalls or spins too slowly 1. Perform a voltage drop test between the battery and solenoid terminals as described under Voltage Drop Tests in this section. The normal voltage drop is less than 2 volts. Note the following: a. If the voltage drop is less than 2 volts, con- tinue with Step 2. b. If the voltage drop exceeds 2 volts, check the tions for dirty or loose-fitting terminals; clean solenoid and battery wires and connections and repair as required. for dirty or loose-fitting terminals; clean and 3. Perform a voltage drop test between the battery repair as required. ground wire and the starter motor as described under 2. Perform a voltage drop test between the solenoid Voltage Drop Tests in this section. The normal volt- terminals and the starter motor as described under age drop is less than 0.2 volts. Note the following: Voltage Drop Tests in this section. The normal volt- a. If the voltage drop is less than 0.2 volts, con- age drop is less than 2 volts. Note the following: tinue with Step 4. a. If the voltage drop is less than 2 volts, con- b. If the voltage drop exceeds 0.2 volts, check tinue with Step 3. the battery ground wire connections for dirty b. If the voltage drop exceeds 2 volts, check the or loose-fitting terminals; clean and repair as solenoid and starter motor wires and connec- required. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TROUBLESHOOTING 47 4. Perform the Starter Current Draw Test in this 18 section. Note the following: a. If the current draw is excessive, check for a damaged starter motor or starter drive assem- 2 bly. Remove the starter motor as described in Chapter Eight and perform the Free Running Current Draw Test in this section. b. If the current draw reading is correct, con- tinue with Step 5. 5. Remove the outer primary cover as described in Chapter Five. Check the pinion gear (A, Figure 12). If the teeth are chipped or worn, inspect the clutch ring gear (B, Figure 12) for the same problem. a. If the pinion gear and ring gear are damaged, 19 service these parts as described in Chapter Five. b. If the pinion gear and ring gear are not dam- aged, continue with Step 6. 6. Remove and disassemble the starter motor as de- scribed in Chapter Eight. Check the disassembled starter motor for opens, shorts and grounds. Component Testing The following sections describe how to test indi- vidual starting system components. Refer to Chap- 20 ter Eight for starter service. STARTER RELAY Starter Relay Removal/Testing/Installation Check the starter relay operation with an ohmme- Ohmmeter ter, jumper wires and a fully charged 12-volt bat- 87 tery. 85 NOTE Do not loosen the electrical panel 87A screws. They are trapped within the 86 30 mounting pin and do not have to be re- moved. 1. Carefully pull out and remove the electric panel cover (Figure 17). 2. Remove the nuts securing the outer panel (Fig- ure 18) and remove the outer panel. 3. Disconnect and remove the starter relay (Figure 19) from the starting circuit. 12-volt battery 4. Connect an ohmmeter and 12-volt battery be- tween the relay terminals shown in Figure 20. This setup will energize the relay for testing. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 48 CHAPTER TWO 5. Check for continuity through the relay contacts 21 using an ohmmeter while the relay coil is energized. The correct reading is 0 ohms. If resistance is exces- sive or if there is no continuity, replace the relay. 6. If the starter relay passes this test, reconnect the relay. 7. Install the outer panel (Figure 18) and tighten the nuts. 8. Correctly position the electrical panel cover with the This side down label facing down (Figure 21). 9. Carefully push the electric panel cover (Figure 17) back into position. Push it on until it bottoms. Starter Motor Current Draw Tests 22 CURRENT DRAW TEST The following current draw test measures current (amperage) that the starter circuit requires to crank the engine. Refer to Table 1 for current draw speci- fications. Induction A short circuit in the starter motor or a damaged ammeter pinion gear assembly can cause excessive current draw. If the current draw is low, suspect an under- charged battery or an open circuit in the starting cir- cuit. Current draw test (starter motor Solenoid mounted on the engine) NOTE Battery This test requires a fully charged bat- tery and an inductive ammeter. 1. Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL. Starter 2. Disconnect the two spark plug caps from the spark plugs. Then ground the plug caps with two ex- tra spark plugs. Do not remove the spark plugs from the cylinder heads. 5. If the current draw exceeds the current draw 3. Connect an inductive ammeter between the specification in Table 1, check for a defective starter motor terminal and positive battery terminal starter or starter drive mechanism. Remove and ser- (Figure 22). Connect a jumper cable from the nega- vice these components as described in Chapter tive battery terminal to ground (Figure 22). Eight. 4. Turn the ignition switch on and press the start 6. Disconnect the ammeter and jumper cables. button for approximately 10 seconds. Note the am- meter reading. Current draw test (starter motor removed from the engine) NOTE The current draw is high when the This test requires a fully charged 12-volt battery, start button is first pressed, then it will drop and stabilize at a lower reading. an inductive ammeter, a jumper wire (14 gauge Refer to the lower stabilized reading minimum) and 3 jumper cables (6 gauge mini- during this test. mum). ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TROUBLESHOOTING 49 23 24 FREE RUNNING CURRENT DRAW TEST 2 Ammeter M terminal charged battery or an open field winding or 50 terminal armature in the starter motor. Solenoid Testing (Bench Tests) This test requires a fully charged 12-volt battery and three jumper wires. Battery Starter mounting flange 1. Remove the starter motor (A, Figure 24) as de- scribed in Chapter Nine. NOTE The solenoid (B, Figure 24) must be 1. Remove the starter motor as described in Chap- installed on the starter motor during ter Eight. the following tests. Do not remove it. NOTE The solenoid must be installed on the 2. Disconnect the C field wire terminal (C, Figure starter motor during the following 24) from the solenoid before performing the follow- tests. ing tests. Insulate the end of the wire terminal so that it cannot short out on any of the test connectors. 2. Mount the starter motor in a vise with soft jaws. 3. Connect the 14-gauge jumper cable between the CAUTION positive battery terminal and the solenoid 50 termi- Because battery voltage is being ap- nal (Figure 23). plied directly to the solenoid and starter in the following tests, do not 4. Connect a jumper cable (6-gauge minimum) be- leave the jumper cables connected to tween the positive battery terminal and the ammeter the solenoid for more than 3-5 sec- (Figure 23). onds; otherwise, the voltage will dam- 5. Connect the second jumper cable between the age the solenoid. ammeter and the M terminal on the starter solenoid (Figure 23). NOTE 6. Connect the third jumper cable between the bat- Thoroughly read the following proce- tery ground terminal and the starter motor mounting dure to familiarize and understand flange (Figure 23). the procedures and test connections. 7. Read the ammeter, the correct ammeter reading Then perform the tests in the order is 90 amps. A damaged pinion gear assembly will listed and without interruption. cause an excessively high current draw reading. If the current draw reading is low, check for an under- 3. Perform the solenoid pull-in test as follows: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 50 CHAPTER TWO 25 26 SOLENOID PULL-IN TEST SOLENOID HOLD-IN TEST C terminal C terminal Solenoid Solenoid Battery Battery Starter Starter 50 terminal 50 terminal a. Connect 1 jumper wire from the negative bat- tery terminal to the solenoid C terminal (Fig- 27 SOLENOID RETURN TEST ure 25). b. Connect 1 jumper wire from the negative bat- tery terminal to the solenoid housing (ground) (Figure 25). C terminal c. Touch a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the starter 50 terminal (Figure Solenoid 25). The pinion shaft (D, Figure 24) must pull into the housing. Battery d. Leave the jumper wires connected and con- tinue with Step 4. 4. To perform the solenoid hold-in test, perform the Starter following: 50 terminal a. With the pinion shaft pulled in (Step 3), dis- connect the C terminal jumper wire from the negative battery terminal and connect it to the 6. Replace the solenoid if the starter shaft failed to positive battery terminal (Figure 26). The operate as described in Steps 3-5. See Solenoid Re- pinion shaft will remain in the housing. If the placement in Chapter Eight. pinion shaft returns to its out position, replace the solenoid. CHARGING SYSTEM b. Leave the jumper wires connected and con- tinue with Step 5. The charging system consists of the battery, al- 5. To perform the solenoid return test, perform the ternator and a solid state rectifier/voltage regula- following: tor. a. Disconnect the jumper wire from the starter The alternator generates alternating current (AC) 50 terminal (Figure 27); the pinion shaft must which the rectifier converts to direct current (DC). return to its out position. The regulator maintains the voltage to the battery at b. Disconnect all of the jumper wires from the a constant level despite variations in engine speed solenoid and battery. and load. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TROUBLESHOOTING 51 8. Do not mount the voltage regulator/rectifier unit 28 in another location. 9. Make sure the negative battery terminal is con- nected to the engine and frame. 2 Troubleshooting If the battery is discharged, perform the following procedure. 1. Test the battery as described in Chapter Eight. Charge the battery if required. If the battery will hold a charge, continue with Step 2. 29 2. Perform the regulator ground test. Testing If charging system trouble is suspected, first check the battery charge. Clean and test the battery as described in Chapter Eight. If the battery is fully charged, test the charging system as follows. If the battery discharges while riding the motor- cycle, perform the Voltage Regulator/Rectifier Test . Also refer to Current Drain Test (Battery Dis- A malfunction in the charging system generally charges While Riding the Motorcycle). causes the battery to remain undercharged. If the battery discharges while the motorcycle is not running, perform the Current Drain Test (Bat- tery Discharges While the Motorcycle is Not Run- Service Precautions ning) test. Before servicing the charging system, observe the following precautions to prevent damage to any Voltage Regulator charging system component. Ground Test 1. Never reverse battery connections. 2. Do not short across any connection. The voltage regulator base (Figure 28) must be grounded to the frame for proper operation. 3. Never start the engine with the alternator discon- nected from the voltage regulator/rectifier, unless 1. Switch an ohmmeter to the R×1 scale. instructed to do so during testing. 2. Connect one ohmmeter lead to a good engine or 4. Never attempt to start or run the engine with the frame ground and the other ohmmeter lead to the battery disconnected. regulator base. Read the ohmmeter scale. The cor- rect reading is 0 ohm. Note the following: 5. Never attempt to use a high-output battery charger to help start the engine. a. If there is low resistance (0 ohm), the voltage 6. Before charging the battery, remove it from the regulator is properly grounded. motorcycle as described in Chapter Eight. b. If there is high resistance, remove the voltage 7. Never disconnect the voltage regulator/rectifier regulator and clean its frame mounting connector with the engine running. The voltage reg- points. ulator/rectifier (Figure 28) is mounted on the front 3. Check that the voltage regulator connector plug frame down tubes. (Figure 29) is clean and tightly connected. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 52 CHAPTER TWO Voltage Regulator Bleed Test 30 CHECKING CURRENT DRAW This test requires a 12-volt test lamp. This tool re- WITH IGNITION SWITCH OFF lies on the vehicle’s battery to supply power to the component being tested. Negative lead (black) 1. Disconnect the voltage regulator connector from the engine crankcase (Figure 29). NOTE Do not disconnect the wire from the voltage regulator to the 30-amp cir- cuit breaker. 2. Connect one test lamp probe to a good frame or Positive lead engine ground. (red) 3. Connect the other test lamp probe to one of the To ground voltage regulator pins, then to the other pin. 4. If the test lamp lights, replace the voltage regula- tor. 5. If the voltage regulator passes this test, recon- 31 nect the voltage regulator connector at the engine LOAD TEST crankcase. Current Drain Test (Battery Discharges While the Motorcycle is Not Running) Battery Load tester Accessory items that require voltage when the en- gine is not running will eventually drain the battery. Perform the following steps to check current drain when the ignition switch and all of the lights are turned off. A drain that exceeds 3 milliamperes (mA) will discharge the battery. This test requires a fully charged 12-volt battery. trical connectors carefully before testing the 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the individual component. battery. 6. After completing the test, disconnect the amme- 2. Connect an ammeter between the negative bat- ter and reconnect the negative battery cable. tery terminal and the battery ground cable as shown in Figure 30. 3. With the ignition switch, lights and all accesso- Current Drain Test ries turned off, read the ammeter. If the current drain (Battery Discharges While exceeds 3 mA, continue with Step 4. Riding the Motorcycle) 4. Refer to the wiring diagram at the end of the manual, for the model being worked on. Check the This test measures the current draw or load of the charging system wires and connectors for shorts or motorcycle’s electrical system. A load tester is re- other damage. quired for this test. Perform this test if the battery 5. Unplug each electrical connector separately and keeps being discharged, yet the charging system is check for a change in the meter reading. If the meter working correctly. reading changes after disconnecting a connector, The charging system is designed to provide cur- the damaged circuit has been found. Check the elec- rent to meet the demands of the original equipment ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TROUBLESHOOTING 53 4. If aftermarket accessories have been added to 32 the motorcycle, disconnect them and repeat Step 2. If the current draw is now within the specification, the problem is with the additional accessories. 2 5. If no accessories have been added to the motor- cycle, a short circuit may be causing the battery to discharge. Charging System Output Test This test requires a load tester. 1. To perform this test, the battery must be fully charged. Load tester NOTE When using a load tester, read and fol- low its manufacturer’s instructions. To prevent tester damage from over- heating, do not leave the load switch ON for more than 20 seconds at a time. 2. Connect the load tester negative and positive To circuit breaker leads to the battery terminals. Then place the load (DC output) tester’s induction pickup over the wire connecting the 30 amp circuit breaker to the voltage regulator (Figure 32). 3. Start the engine and slowly bring the speed up to (OE) installed on the motorcycle. If aftermarket ac- 2000 rpm while reading the load tester scale. With cessories have been installed, the increased current the engine running at 3000 rpm, operate the load demand may exceed the charging systems capacity tester switch until the voltage scale reads 13.0 volts. and result in a discharged battery. The tester must show an alternator current output reading of 26-32 amps. NOTE 4. With the engine still running at 3000 rpm, turn When using a load tester, read and fol- the load switch off and read the load tester voltage low its manufacturer’s instructions. scale. Battery voltage must not exceed 15 volts. To prevent tester damage from over- heating, do not leave the load switch Turn the engine off and disconnect the load tester ON for more than 20 seconds at a from the motorcycle. time. 5. Perform the Stator Test described in this chapter. If the stator tests acceptable a defective voltage reg- 1. Connect a load tester to the battery as shown in ulator/rectifier (Figure 28) or a wiring short circuit Figure 31. is indicated. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON (but do not start the Make sure to eliminate the possibility of a poor engine). Then turn on all electrical accessories and connection or damaged wiring before replacing the switch the headlight beam to HIGH. voltage regulator/rectifier. 3. Read the ampere reading (current draw) on the load tester and compare it to the test results obtained Stator Test in the Charging System Output Test in this chapter. The charging system output test results (current 1. With the ignition switch turned OFF, disconnect reading) must exceed the current draw by 3.5 amps the regulator/rectifier connector from the crankcase for the battery to remain sufficiently charged. (Figure 29). ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 54 CHAPTER TWO 33 34 CHECKING ALTERNATOR OUTPUT Ohmmeter To ground AC voltmeter 2. Switch an ohmmeter to its R×1 scale. Then con- nect it between either stator socket, at the crankcase, and ground (Figure 33). The correct ohmmeter reading is infinity. Any other reading suggests a grounded stator. Repeat this test for the other stator socket. the wiring diagrams at the end of this book for the 3. Switch an ohmmeter to its R×1 scale. Then con- specific model and year being worked on. nect it between both stator sockets (at the crank- Because of the solid state design, problems with case). The correct ohmmeter reading is 0.1-0.2 the transistorized system are rare. If a problem oc- ohm. If resistance is not as specified, replace the curs, it generally causes a weak spark or no spark at stator. all. An ignition system with a weak spark or no 4. Check stator AC voltage output as follows: spark is relatively easy to troubleshoot. It is diffi- a. Connect an AC voltmeter across the stator cult, however, to troubleshoot an ignition system pins as shown in Figure 34. that only malfunctions when the engine is hot or un- b. Start the engine and slowly increase engine der load. speed. The correct voltmeter reading is 16-20 All models are equipped with an on-board diag- volts AC per each 1000 rpm. For example, if nostic system. Troubleshooting this system by non the engine is running at 2000 rpm, the correct Harley-Davidson personnel is limited to trouble AC output reading is 32-40 volts AC. code retrieval. Retrieving the trouble code(s) will indicate where NOTE a fault(s) has occurred. Further testing requires sev- Figure 35 is shown with the engine eral Harley-Davidson special tools that are avail- removed to better illustrate the step. able only to H-D dealers. If a fault has occurred, have the diagnostic proce- c. If the AC voltage output reading is below the dures performed at a H-D dealership. specified range, the trouble is probably a de- fective stator (Figure 35) or rotor. If these NOTE parts are not damaged, perform the Charging The H-D Scanalyzer and Breakout System Output Test in this section. Box are not available for purchase. 5. Reconnect the regulator/rectifier connector. Ignition System Precautions IGNITION SYSTEM Certain measures must be taken to protect the ig- All models are equipped with a transistorized ig- nition system. nition system. This solid state system uses no con- 1. Never disconnect any of the electrical connec- tact breaker points or other moving parts. Refer to tors while the engine is running. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TROUBLESHOOTING 55 35 36 2 2. Apply dielectric grease to all electrical connec- Diagnostic Trouble Codes tors prior to reconnecting them. This will help seal out moisture. The Dyna-Glide on-board diagnostic system 3. Make sure all electrical connectors are free of identifies faults and stores this information as a corrosion and are completely coupled to each other. two-digit diagnostic trouble code. If more than one 4. The ignition module must always be mounted fault is found it also sets that fault. securely to the backside of the electrical panel. If a trouble code has been set, the check-engine light will come on. During normal operation, the check engine light will illuminate for approxi- Troubleshooting Preparation mately four seconds when the ignition is turned ON. The check-engine light then turns off and remains 1. Refer to the wiring diagram for the specific off. If a diagnostic trouble code(s) has been set, the model being worked on at the end of this book when check-engine light turns on for four seconds, turns performing the following. off, and then turns back on for eight seconds or re- 2. Check the wiring harness for visible signs of mains on beyond the eight second period. damage. Trouble codes are retrieved by counting the num- 3. Make sure all connectors are properly attached ber of times the check-engine light flashes. to each other and locked in place. 4. Check all electrical components for a good ground to the engine. Diagnostic Trouble Codes (Retrieving) 5. Check all wiring for short circuits or open cir- cuits. Diagnostic trouble codes are displayed as a series 6. Check for a damaged ignition circuit breaker of flashes at the check-engine light on the speedom- (Figure 36) located behind the electric panel. eter face. To retrieve the stored codes, a jumper wire 7. Make sure the fuel tank has an adequate supply made of 18-gauge wire and two Deutsch sockets of fresh gasoline. (H-D part No. 72191-94), as shown in Figure 37, 8. Check spark plug cable routing and their con- are required nections at the spark plugs. If there is no spark or To retrieve the diagnostic trouble code(s), per- only a weak one, repeat the test with new spark form the following: plugs. If the condition remains the same with new 1. Remove the seat as described in Chapter Thir- spark plugs and if all external wiring connections teen. are good, the problem is most likely in the ignition system. If a strong spark is present, the problem is NOTE probably not in the ignition system. Check the fuel Do not loosen the electrical panel system. screws. They are trapped within the 9. Remove the spark plugs and examine them as mounting pin and do not have to be re- described in Chapter Three. moved. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 56 CHAPTER TWO 37 2 in. 2. Carefully pull out and remove the electric panel cover (Figure 17). 38 3. Remove the nuts securing the outer panel (Fig- ure 18) and remove the outer panel. 4. Remove the data link connector (A, Figure 38) from the holder on the electrical panel. 5. Remove the protective cover (B, Figure 38) from the data link connector. 6. Install the jumper wire onto pins No. 1 (light green/red) and No. 2 (black) on the data link con- nector (Figure 39). 7. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Af- ter approximately eight seconds, the different sys- tems enter the diagnostic codes. 39 a. The check engine light begins with a ready signal, which is a series of six rapid flashes, approximately three per second. The ready signal indicates that the check engine light is ready to flash a diagnostic trouble code. b. This is followed by a two-second pause. c. The system then flashes the first digit of the stored diagnostic trouble code. The check-engine light will illuminate for one second and then turn off for one second. Count the number of flashes and record the number. For example, two blinks indicates f. The system will pause for two seconds, and the first digit is two. then flashes the first digit of the next diag- d. The system will pause for two seconds and nostic trouble code, followed by the second then flash the second digit of the diagnostic digit. trouble code. Count the number of flashes, and record this number. For example, five 8. The system displays the stored codes, sequen- blinks indicates the second digit is five. This tially, one at a time, until each diagnostic trouble indicates that the first trouble code is twenty code has been displayed. The system then repeats. five, or a problem with the rear ignition coil. The check-engine light will continue to flash out e. If more than one trouble code is present, the stored codes until the jumper wire is disconnected. system will pause for two seconds and then When the codes repeat, this indicates that all stored flash the ready signal, which is a series of six codes have been displayed. Turn the ignition switch rapid flashes. It is now ready to flash the next to the OFF position and remove the jumper wire trouble code. from the data link connector. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TROUBLESHOOTING 57 40 42 IGNITION COIL CIRCUIT TESTS 2 Secondary terminals Ohmmeter 41 Primary terminals Ignition Module Testing and Replacement If the ignition module is suspected of being de- fective, have it tested by a H-D dealership before purchasing a replacement. The cost of the test will not exceed the cost of replacing an ignition module that may not repair the problem. Most parts suppli- ers will not accept returns on electrical compo- nents. 9. Refer to Table 3 for diagnostic trouble codes, and check the component indicated. If multiple codes have been sent, troubleshoot the lowest num- Ignition Coil Testing bered code first. The source of subsequent codes Use an ohmmeter to check the ignition coil sec- may be the same malfunction that has caused the ondary and primary resistance. Test the coil twice: first. first when it is cold (room temperature) and then at 10. Install the protective cover onto the data link normal operating temperature. If the engine will not connector (B, Figure 38) and fit the data link con- start, heat the coil with a hair dryer, then test with nector (A, Figure 38) onto the holder on the electri- the ohmmeter. cal panel. 1. Remove the seat as described in Chapter Thir- 11. Install the outer panel (Figure 18) and tighten teen. the nuts. 2. Disconnect the secondary (Figure 40) and pri- 12. Correctly position the electrical panel cover mary wire connector (Figure 41) from the ignition with the This side down label facing down (Figure coil. 21). NOTE 13. Carefully push the electric panel cover (Figure When switching between ohmmeter 17) back into position. Push it on until it bottoms. scales in the following tests, always 14. Install the seat. cross the test leads and zero the nee- dle to assure a correct reading (ana- log meter only). Diagnostic Trouble Codes (Clearing) 3. Set an ohmmeter on R ×1. Measure the ignition The trouble codes can only be cleared by a coil primary resistance between the coil primary Harley-Davidson dealership. terminals (Figure 42). Compare the reading to the ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 58 CHAPTER TWO specification in Table 2. Replace the ignition coil if 43 the reading is not within specification. 4. Set the ohmmeter on its highest scale. Measure the resistance between the secondary terminals (Figure 42). Compare the reading to the specifica- tion in Table 2. Replace the ignition coil if the read- ing is not within specification. Ignition Coil Cables and Caps Inspection All Dyna Glide models are equipped with resis- 44 tor- or suppression-type spark plug cables (Figure 43). These cables reduce radio interference. The ca- ble’s conductor consists of a carbon-impregnated fabric core material instead of solid wire. If a plug cable becomes damaged, either due to corrosion or conductor breaks, its resistance in- creases. Excessive cable resistance will cause en- gine misfire and other ignition or driveability problems. When troubleshooting the ignition system, in- spect the spark plug cables (Figure 44) for: 1. Corroded or damaged connector ends. Identifying Carburetor Conditions 2. Breaks in the cable insulation that could allow Refer to the following conditions to identify arcing. whether the engine is running lean or rich. 3. Split or damaged plug caps that could allow arc- ing to the cylinder heads. Rich Replace damaged or questionable spark plug ca- bles. 1. Fouled spark plugs. 2. Engine misfires and runs rough under load. 3. Excessive exhaust smoke as the throttle is in- FUEL SYSTEM creased. 4. An extreme rich condition results in a choked or Many riders automatically assume that the carbu- dull sound from the exhaust and an inability to clear retor is at fault when the engine does not run prop- the exhaust with the throttle held wide open. erly. While fuel system problems are not uncommon, carburetor adjustment is seldom the an- swer. In many cases, adjusting will only compound Lean the problem by making the engine run worse. 1. Blistered or very white spark plug electrodes. Begin fuel system troubleshooting with the fuel 2. Engine overheats. tank and work through the system, reserving the 3. Slow acceleration, engine power is reduced. carburetor as the final point. Most fuel system prob- lems result from an empty fuel tank, a plugged fuel 4. Flat spots on acceleration that are similar in feel filter or fuel valve, sour fuel, a dirty air filter or to when the engine starts to run out of gas. clogged carburetor jets. 5. Engine speed fluctuates at full throttle. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TROUBLESHOOTING 59 pushed against the seat to prevent the float bowl 45 FUEL LEVEL SYSTEM from overfilling. If the fuel valve fails to close, the engine will run too rich or flood with fuel. Symptoms of this prob- 2 lem are rough running, excessive black smoke and poor acceleration. This condition will sometimes clear up when the engine is run at wide-open throt- tle, as the fuel is being drawn into the engine before the float bowl can overfill. As the engine speed is reduced, however, the rich-running condition re- turns. Several things can cause fuel overflow. In most instances, it can be as simple as a small piece of dirt trapped between the fuel valve and seat or an incor- Float bowl rect float level. If fuel is flowing out of the overflow vent tube connected to the bottom of the float bowl, the Fuel fuel valve inside the carburetor is being held open. inlet First check the position of the fuel shutoff valve le- (from side) ver. Turn the fuel shutoff valve lever OFF. Then lightly tap on the carburetor float bowl and turn the fuel shutoff valve lever ON. If the fuel flow stops running out of the overflow tube, whatever was holding the fuel valve off of its seat has been dis- Inlet valve lodged. If fuel continues to flow from the overflow tube, remove and service the carburetor. See Chap- Float ter Seven. Overflow line NOTE Fuel will not flow from the vac- uum-operated fuel shutoff valve until the engine is running. Troubleshooting Isolate fuel system problems to the fuel tank, fuel Starting enrichment (choke) system shutoff valve and filter, fuel hoses, external fuel fil- ter (if used) or carburetor. The following procedures A cold engine requires a rich mixture to start and assume that the ignition system is working properly run properly. On all models, a cable-actuated starter and is correctly adjusted. enrichment valve is used for cold starting. If the engine is difficult to start when cold, check the starting enrichment (choke) cable adjustment Fuel level system described in Chapter Three. The fuel level system is shown in Figure 45. Proper carburetor operation depends on a constant Accelerator pump system and correct carburetor fuel level. As fuel is drawn from the float bowl during engine operation, the During sudden throttle openings the diaphragm float level in the bowl drops. As the float drops, the type accelerator pump system (Figure 46) provides fuel valve moves away from its seat and allows fuel additional fuel to the engine. Without this system to flow through the seat into the float bowl. Fuel en- the carburetor would not be able to provide a suffi- tering the float bowl will cause the float to rise and cient amount of fuel. push against the fuel valve. When the fuel level The system consists of a spring loaded neoprene reaches a predetermined level, the fuel valve is diaphragm that is compressed during sudden accel- | |
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