Ford Orion. Manual — part 4

3 Ensure that tyre pressures are checked
regularly and maintained correctly (see the
Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter
for pressures). Checking should be carried out
with the tyres cold, and not immediately after
the vehicle has been in use. If the pressures
are checked with the tyres hot, an apparently-
high reading will be obtained, owing to heat
expansion. Under no circumstances should an
attempt be made to reduce the pressures to
the quoted cold reading in this instance, or
effective under-inflation will result. Most
garage forecourts have a pressure line which
combines a gauge to check and adjust the
tyre pressures, but they may vary in accuracy,
due to general misuse and abuse. It therefore
pays to carry a good-quality tyre pressure
gauge in the vehicle, to make the regular
checks required and ensure pressure
accuracy

(see illustration).

4 Note any abnormal tread wear (see
illustration). Tread pattern irregularities such

as feathering, flat spots, and more wear on
one side than the other, are indications of
front wheel alignment and/or balance
problems. If any of these conditions are
noted, they should be rectified as soon as
possible.
5 Under-inflation will cause overheating of the
tyre, owing to excessive flexing of the casing,
and the tread will not sit correctly on the road
surface. This will cause a consequent loss of
adhesion and excessive wear, not to mention
the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat
build-up.
6 Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the
centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with
reduced adhesion, harder ride, and the
danger of damage occurring in the tyre
casing.
7 Regularly check the tyres for damage in the
form of cuts or bulges, especially in the
sidewalls. Remove any nails or stones
embedded in the tread, before they penetrate
the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail
reveals that the tyre has been punctured, refit
the nail, so that its point of penetration is
marked. Then immediately change the wheel,
and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Do
not drive on a tyre in such a condition. If in any
doubt as to the possible consequences of any
damage found, consult your local tyre dealer
for advice.
8 General tyre wear is influenced to a large
degree by driving style - harsh braking and
acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce
more rapid tyre wear. Interchanging of tyres
may result in more even wear; however, it is
worth bearing in mind that if this is completely

effective, the likelihood is that all four tyres
would need replacing at once, which may
prove too expensive for many owners.
9 Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of
wheel misalignment. The front wheels should
always be correctly aligned according to the
settings specified by the vehicle
manufacturer.
10 Don’t forget to check the spare tyre for
condition and pressure.
11 Legal restrictions apply to many aspects
of tyre fitting and usage, and in the UK this
information is contained in the Motor Vehicle
Construction and Use Regulations. It is
suggested that a copy of these regulations is
obtained from your local police, if in doubt as
to current legal requirements with regard to
tyre type and condition, minimum tread depth,
etc.

5

Power steering fluid level
check

1

1 The power steering fluid reservoir is located
on the right-hand side of the engine
compartment, next to the cooling system
expansion tank.
2 For the fluid level check, the power steering
system should be at its normal operating
temperature, so it is best to carry out the
check after a run.
3 Park the vehicle on level ground, with the
front wheels pointing straight ahead, and
switch off the engine.

Weekly Checks

1•13

4.3 Check the tyre pressures regularly

using an accurate gauge

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)
Under-inflation will cause overheating of the
tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and
the tread will not sit correctly on the road
surface. This will cause a loss of grip and
excessive wear, not to mention the danger of
sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up.
Check and adjust pressures
Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)
Repair or renew suspension parts
Hard cornering
Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Overinflation
Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the
centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with
reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of
shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.
Check and adjust pressures

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s
tyres to the higher pressures specified for
maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t
forget to reduce the pressures to normal
afterwards.

Uneven Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of
wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and
garages can check and adjust the wheel
alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.
Incorrect camber or castor
Repair or renew suspension parts
Malfunctioning suspension
Repair or renew suspension parts
Unbalanced wheel
Balance tyres
Incorrect toe setting
Adjust front wheel alignment
Note: The feathered edge of the tread which
typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

1

4 Check that the fluid level is up to the “MAX”
mark on the reservoir.
5 If topping-up is required, first use a clean
rag to wipe the filler cap and the surrounding
area, to prevent foreign matter from entering
the system. Unscrew and remove the filler
cap.
6 Top-up the level to the “MAX” mark, using
the grade of fluid specified at the beginning of
this Chapter (see illustration). Be careful not
to introduce dirt into the system, and do not
overfill. The need for frequent topping-up
indicates a leak, which should be
investigated.
7 Refit the filler cap.

6

Windscreen/tailgate washer
system and wiper blade
check

1

1 The windscreen wiper and blade
assemblies should be inspected at the
specified intervals for damage, loose
components, and cracked or worn blade
elements.
2 Road film can build up on the wiper blades
and affect their efficiency, so they should be
washed regularly with a mild detergent
solution.
3 The action of the wiping mechanism can
loosen bolts, nuts and fasteners, so they
should be checked and tightened, as
necessary, at the same time as the wiper
blades are checked.
4 If the wiper blade elements are cracked,
worn or warped, or no longer clean
adequately, they should be replaced with new
ones.

5 Lift the wiper arm and blade away from the
glass.
6 To remove the windscreen wiper blade,
release the catch on the arm, then turn the
blade through 90º and withdraw the blade
from the end of the arm (see illustration).
7 To remove the tailgate wiper blade, push
the wiper blade forward, and at the same time
depress it against the spring pressure, then
withdraw it from the end of the arm.
8 If the metal part of the wiper blade is in
good condition, it may be possible to renew
the rubber insert separately. Inserts can
sometimes be obtained from car accessory
shops and, according to type, may need to be
cut to the correct length before sliding into the
clips.
9 Refit the wiper blade assembly using a
reversal of the removal procedure, making
sure that it fully engages with the spring clip.
10 Check that the washer jets direct the fluid
onto the upper part of the windscreen/
tailgate/rear window/headlight, and if
necessary adjust the small sphere on the jet
with a pin (see illustration).

7

Automatic transmission fluid
level check

1

1 The level of the automatic transmission fluid
should be carefully maintained. Low fluid level
can lead to slipping or loss of drive, while
overfilling can cause foaming, loss of fluid and
transmission damage.
2 The transmission fluid level should only be
checked when the transmission is hot (at its
normal operating temperature). If the vehicle
has just been driven over 10 miles (15 miles in
a cold climate), and the fluid temperature is
160 to 175ºF, the transmission is hot.

Caution: If the vehicle has just
been driven for a long time at
high speed or in city traffic in hot
weather, or if it has been pulling

a trailer, an accurate fluid level reading
cannot be obtained. In these
circumstances, allow the fluid to cool
down for about 30 minutes.

3 Park the vehicle on level ground, apply the
handbrake, and start the engine. While the
engine is idling, depress the brake pedal and
move the selector lever through all the gear
positions three times, beginning and ending in
“P”.
4 Allow the engine to idle for one minute, then
(with the engine still idling) remove the
dipstick from its tube. Note the condition and
colour of the fluid on the dipstick.
5 Wipe the fluid from the dipstick with a clean
rag, and re-insert it into the filler tube until the
cap seats.
6 Pull the dipstick out again, and note the
fluid level. The level should be between the
“MIN” and “MAX” marks. If the level is on
the “MIN” mark, stop the engine, and add the
specified automatic transmission fluid through
the dipstick tube, using a clean funnel if
necessary. It is important not to introduce dirt
into the transmission when topping-up.
7 Add the fluid a little at a time, and keep
checking the level as previously described
until it is correct.
8 The need for regular topping-up of the
transmission fluid indicates a leak, which
should be found and rectified without delay.
9 The condition of the fluid should also be
checked along with the level. If the fluid on the
dipstick is black or a dark reddish-brown
colour, or if it has a burned smell, the fluid
should be changed. If you are in doubt about
the condition of the fluid, purchase some new
fluid, and compare the two for colour and smell.

1•14

Weekly Checks

6.10 Adjust the washer jets with a pin in

the direction required

6.6 Windscreen wiper blade removal from

the arm

5.6 Topping-up the power steering fluid

reservoir

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

8

Electrical system check

1

1 Check the operation of all external lights
and indicators (front and rear).
2 Check for satisfactory operation of the

instrument panel, its illumination and warning
lights, the switches and their function lights.
3 Check the horn(s) for satisfactory operation.
4 Check all other electrical equipment for
satisfactory operation.
5 Check all electrical wiring in the engine
compartment for correct routing, and for any
signs of physical or heat-damage or chafing.

9

Battery check, maintenance
and charging

2

Warning: Certain precautions
must be followed when checking
and servicing the battery.

Hydrogen gas, which is highly flammable,
is always present in the battery cells, so
keep lighted tobacco and all other open
flames and sparks away from the battery.
The electrolyte inside the battery is
actually dilute sulphuric acid, which will
cause injury if splashed on your skin or in
your eyes. It will also ruin clothes and
painted surfaces. When disconnecting the
battery, always detach the negative (earth)
lead first and connect it last!
Note: Before disconnecting the battery, refer
to Section 1 of Chapter 5.

General

1 A routine preventive maintenance
programme for the battery in your vehicle is
the only way to ensure quick and reliable
starts. Before performing any battery
maintenance, make sure that you have the
proper equipment necessary to work safely
around the battery. This includes safety
goggles and rubber gloves to protect your
eyes and hands from the caustic battery
deposits, a solution of baking soda to dissolve
these deposits, and petroleum jelly, which,
applied to the cleaned battery terminals, will
help prevent further corrosion occurring.
2 There are also several precautions that
should be taken whenever battery
maintenance is performed. Before servicing
the battery, always turn the engine and all
accessories off, and disconnect the lead from
the negative terminal of the battery - see
Chapter 5, Section 1.
3 The battery produces hydrogen gas, which
is both flammable and explosive. Never create
a spark, smoke, or light a match around the
battery. Always charge the battery in a well-
ventilated area.
4 The battery electrolyte fluid contains
sulphuric acid, which is poisonous and
corrosive. Do not allow it to get in your eyes,
on your skin, or on your clothes. Never ingest
it. Wear protective safety goggles when
working near the battery. Keep children away
from the battery.
5 Note the external condition of the battery. If
the positive terminal and lead clamp on your
vehicle’s battery is equipped with a plastic
cover or rubber protector, make sure that it’s
not torn or damaged. It should completely
cover the terminal. Look for any corroded or
loose connections, cracks in the case or
cover, or loose hold-down clamps. Also check
the entire length of each lead for cracks and
frayed conductors.
6 If corrosion, which looks like white, fluffy
deposits is evident, particularly around the
terminals, the battery should be removed for
cleaning. Slacken the lead clamp nuts with a
spanner, being careful to remove the negative
(earth) lead first, and slide them off the
terminals. Then unscrew the hold-down
clamp nuts, remove the clamp, and lift the
battery from the engine compartment.
7 Clean the lead clamps thoroughly, using a
soft wire brush or a terminal cleaner, with a

solution of warm water and baking soda. Wash
the terminals and the top of the battery case
with the same solution, but make sure that the
solution doesn’t get into the battery. When
cleaning the leads, terminals and battery top,
wear safety goggles and rubber gloves, to
prevent any solution from coming in contact
with your eyes or hands. Wear old clothes too
- even when diluted, sulphuric acid splashed
onto clothes will burn holes in them. If the
terminals have been extensively corroded,
clean them up with a suitable tool. Thoroughly
wash all cleaned areas with plain water.
8 Make sure that the battery tray is in good
condition, and that the hold-down clamp nuts
are tight. If the battery is removed from the
tray, make sure that no parts remain in the
bottom of the tray when the battery is refitted.
When refitting the hold-down clamp nuts, do
not overtighten them.
9 Information on removing and installing the
battery can be found in Chapter 5. Information
on jump starting can be found at the front of this
manual. For more detailed battery checking
procedures, refer to the Haynes “Automobile
Electrical and Electronic Systems Manual”.

Cleaning

10 Corrosion on the hold-down components,
battery case and surrounding areas can be
removed with a solution of water and baking
soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with
plain water.
11 Any metal parts of the vehicle damaged
by corrosion should be covered with a
zinc-based primer, then painted.

Charging

Warning: When batteries are being
charged, hydrogen gas, which is
very explosive and flammable, is

produced. Do not smoke, or allow open
flames, near a charging or a recently-
charged battery. Wear eye protection when
near the battery during charging. Also,
make sure that the charger is unplugged
before connecting or disconnecting the
battery from the charger.
12 Slow-rate charging is the best way to
restore a battery that’s discharged to the
point where it will not start the engine. It’s also
a good way to maintain the battery charge in a
vehicle that’s only driven a few miles between
starts. Maintaining the battery charge is
particularly important in Winter, when the
battery must work harder to start the engine,
and electrical accessories that drain the
battery are in greater use.
13 It’s best to use a one- or two-amp battery
charger (sometimes called a “trickle” charger).
They are the safest, and put the least strain on
the battery. They are also the least expensive.
For a faster charge, you can use a higher-
amperage charger, but don’t use one rated more
than 1/10th the amp/hour rating of the battery (ie
no more than 5 amps, typically). Rapid boost
charges that claim to restore the power of the
battery in one to two hours are hardest on the
battery, and can damage batteries not in good

condition. This type of charging should only be
used in emergency situations.
14 The average time necessary to charge a
battery should be listed in the manuals that
come with the charger. As a general rule, a trickle
charger will charge a battery in 12 to 16 hours.

10 Seat belt check

1

1 Check the seat belts for satisfactory
operation and condition. Inspect the webbing
for fraying and cuts. Check that they retract
smoothly and without binding into their reels.
2 Check that the seat belt mounting bolts are
tight, and if necessary tighten them to the
specified torque wrench setting.

11 Auxiliary drivebelt check and

renewal

2

General

1 The auxiliary drivebelt type depends on the
engine fitted, and on whether the vehicle is
equipped with power-assisted steering or air
conditioning. The belt will be either a V-belt or
a flat, multi-ribbed (or “polyvee”) type. The
drivebelt is located on the right-hand end of
the engine, and drives the alternator, water
pump (and, when fitted, the power steering
pump and the air conditioning compressor)
from the engine’s crankshaft pulley.
2 The good condition and proper tension of
the auxiliary drivebelt is critical to the
operation of the engine. Because of their
composition and the high stresses to which
they are subjected, drivebelts stretch and
deteriorate as they get older. They must,
therefore, be regularly inspected.

Check

3 With the engine switched off, open and
support the bonnet, then locate the auxiliary
drivebelt on the right-hand end of the engine
(Be very careful, and wear protective gloves to
minimise the risk of burning your hands on hot
components, if the engine has recently been
running). For improved access, jack up the

Every 10 000 miles

1•15

11.3 Removing the auxiliary drivebelt

lower cover (arrowed) from inside the

wheel arch

1

front right-hand side of the vehicle, support it
securely on an axle stand, remove the
roadwheel, then remove the auxiliary drivebelt
lower cover from inside the wheel arch (see
illustration).
4 Using an inspection light or a small electric
torch, and rotating the engine when necessary
with a spanner applied to the crankshaft
pulley bolt, check the whole length of the
drivebelt for cracks, separation of the rubber,
and torn or worn ribs (see illustration). Also
check for fraying and glazing, which gives the
drivebelt a shiny appearance. Both sides of
the drivebelt should be inspected, which
means you will have to twist the drivebelt to
check the underside. Use your fingers to feel
the drivebelt where you can’t see it. If you are
in any doubt as to the condition of the
drivebelt, renew it (go to paragraph 19).
Turning the engine will be much easier if the
spark plugs are removed first (Section 27).

Drivebelt tension

5 It’s only necessary to adjust the tension if
the drivebelt is of the V-belt type. The flat,
“polyvee” type drivebelts are fitted with an
automatic tensioner to maintain the correct
belt adjustment.
6 On the V-belt type, Ford technicians use a
special tension gauge for checking drivebelt
adjustment, but for DIY purposes, checking
the belt tension using firm finger pressure
gives a good indication of correct adjustment.
This is done midway between the pulleys, on
the longest run of the belt.
7 If adjustment is necessary, proceed as
follows according to belt type.

V-belt with sliding arm type adjuster

8 Open the bonnet. Jack up the front right-
hand side of the vehicle, and support it
securely on an axle stand. Remove the
roadwheel, then remove the auxiliary drivebelt
lower cover from inside the wheel arch.
9 Apply firm finger pressure midway between

the pulleys on the longest run of the belt, and
look for a deflection of 2.0 mm (i.e. a total
drivebelt “swing” of 4.0 mm). If adjustment is
required, loosen off the alternator mounting
and drivebelt adjustment bolts, pivot the
alternator as required to provide the correct
drivebelt tension, then retighten the bolts to
secure (see illustrations).
10 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover and
roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the
ground.
11 Run the engine for about five minutes,
then recheck the tension.

V-belt with rack-and-pinion type
adjuster

12 Open the bonnet. Jack up the front right-
hand side of the vehicle, and support it
securely on an axle stand. Remove the
roadwheel, then remove the auxiliary drivebelt
lower cover from inside the wheel arch.
13 Check the adjustment as described in
paragraph 9. If adjustment is required, loosen
off the alternator mounting bolts and the
adjusting arm mounting bolt. Slacken the
pinion central locking bolt, and turn the pinion
nut as required to take up the tension of the
drivebelt (see illustration). Hold it at the
required setting, and tighten the central bolt
securely to lock the adjuster arm and set the
tension.

14 Tighten the alternator mounting and
adjusting arm bolts securely.
15 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover and
roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the
ground.
16 Run the engine for about five minutes,
then recheck the tension.

Flat “polyvee” type drivebelt

17 As mentioned above, this type of drivebelt
is tensioned by an automatic tensioner;
regular checks are not required, and manual
“adjustment” is not possible.
18 If you suspect that the drivebelt is slipping
and/or running slack, or that the tensioner is
otherwise faulty, it must be renewed. To do
this, remove the drivebelt as described below,
then unbolt and remove the tensioner. On
fitting the new tensioner, ensure that it is
aligned correctly on its mountings, and
tightened to the specified torque wrench
setting.

Renewal

19 Open the bonnet. Jack up the front right-
hand side of the vehicle, and support it
securely on an axle stand. Remove the
roadwheel, then remove the auxiliary drivebelt
lower cover from inside the wheel arch.
20 The routing of the drivebelt around the
pulleys is dependent on the drivebelt type,
and on whether power steering and/or air
conditioning is fitted. Before removing the
drivebelt, it’s a good idea to sketch the belt
run around the pulleys; this will save a lot of
frustration when it comes to refitting.
21 If the existing drivebelt is to be refitted,
mark it, or note the maker’s markings on its
flat surface, so that it can be installed the
same way round.
22 To renew the V-belt type of drivebelt,
slacken the belt tension fully as described
above, according to type. Slip the belt off the
pulleys, then fit the new belt, ensuring that it is
routed correctly. With the belt in
position, adjust the tension as previously
described.
23 To renew the flat, “polyvee” type

1•16

Every 10 000 miles

11.13 Rack-and-pinion type auxiliary

drivebelt adjuster

A Adjuster arm
B Pinion (adjuster) nut
C Central (locking) bolt

11.9B Alternator upper mounting/sliding

arm adjuster bolt (arrowed) - V-belt with

sliding arm type adjuster

11.9A Checking drivebelt adjustment -

V-belt types

Note that the 4 mm dimension is the total belt

swing and is equal to 2 mm of deflection

11.4 Check the auxiliary drivebelt for signs

of wear like these. Very small cracks

across the drivebelt ribs are acceptable. If

the cracks are deep, or if the drivebelt

looks worn or damaged in any other way,

renew it. This is the “polyvee” type belt,

but the checks on the V-belt type are the

same