Ford Orion. Manual — part 18

Inner shield

14 Remove the timing belt, its tensioner
components and the camshaft toothed
pulleys (see Sections 10 and 11).
15 The shield is secured to the cylinder head
by two bolts at the top, and by two studs
lower down; unscrew these and withdraw the
shield (see illustration).
16 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; note the torque wrench settings
specified for the various fasteners.

10 Timing belt - removal, refitting

and adjustment

4

Note: To carry out this operation, a new timing
belt (where applicable), a new cylinder head
cover gasket, and some special tools (see text)
will be required. If the timing belt is being
removed for the first time since the vehicle left
the factory, a tensioner spring and retaining
pin must be obtained for fitting on reassembly.
1 With the vehicle parked on firm level
ground, open the bonnet and disconnect the
battery negative (earth) lead - see Chapter 5,
Section 1.
2 Slacken the water pump pulley bolts.
3 Remove the cylinder head cover (see
Section 5).
4 Remove the spark plugs, covering their
holes with clean rag, to prevent dirt or other
foreign bodies from dropping in (see Chap-
ter 1).
5 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chap-
ter 1).
6 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the
second pair of notches in the pulley rim align
with the edge of the sump mark, so that Nos 1
and 4 cylinders are at TDC (see Section 4).
7 Unbolt and remove the water pump pulley
and the auxiliary drivebelt idler pulley.
8 Obtain Ford service tool 21-162, or
fabricate a substitute from a strip of metal
5 mm thick (while the strip’s thickness is
critical, its length and width are not, but
should be approximately 180 to 230 mm by
20 to 30 mm). Check that Nos 1 and 4
cylinders are at Top Dead Centre (TDC) - No 1

on the compression stroke - by resting this
tool on the cylinder head mating surface, and
sliding it into the slot in the left-hand end of
both camshafts (see illustration). The tool
should slip snugly into both slots while resting
on the cylinder head mating surface; if one
camshaft is only slightly out of alignment, it is
permissible to use an open-ended spanner to
rotate the camshaft gently and carefully until
the tool will fit.
9 If both camshaft slots (they are machined
significantly off-centre) are below the level of
the cylinder head mating surface, rotate the
crankshaft through one full turn clockwise and
fit the tool again; it should now fit as
described in the previous paragraph.
10 With the camshaft aligning tool remaining
in place, remove the crankshaft pulley. Do not
use the locked camshafts to prevent the
crankshaft from rotating - use only the locking
method described in Section 8.
11 Remove the timing belt lower and middle
covers (see Section 9).
12 With the camshaft-aligning tool still in
place, slacken the tensioner bolt, and use an
Allen key inserted into its centre to rotate the
tensioner clockwise as far as possible away
from the belt; retighten the bolt to secure the
tensioner clear of the timing belt (see
illustration).
13 If the timing belt is to be re-used, use
white paint or similar to mark its direction of
rotation, and note from the manufacturer’s
markings which way round it is fitted.
Withdraw the belt. Do not

rotate the

crankshaft until the timing belt is refitted.
14 If the belt is being removed for reasons
other than routine renewal, check it carefully
for any signs of uneven wear, splitting, cracks
(especially at the roots of the belt teeth) or
contamination with oil or coolant. Renew the
belt if there is the slightest doubt about its
condition. As a safety measure, the belt must
be renewed as a matter of course at the
intervals given in Chapter 1; if its history is
unknown, the belt should be renewed
irrespective of its apparent condition
whenever the engine is overhauled. Similarly,
check the tensioner spring (where fitted),
renewing it if there is any doubt about its

condition. Check also the toothed pulleys for
signs of wear or damage, and ensure that the
tensioner and guide pulleys rotate smoothly
on their bearings; renew any worn or
damaged components. If signs of oil or
coolant contamination are found, trace the
source of the leak and rectify it, then wash
down the engine timing belt area and related
components, to remove all traces of oil or
coolant.
15 On reassembly, temporarily refit the
crankshaft pulley, to check that the pulley
notches and sump rib are aligned as
described in paragraph 6 above, then ensure
that both camshafts are aligned at TDC by the
special tool (paragraph 8). If the engine is
being reassembled after major dismantling,
both camshaft toothed pulleys should be free
to rotate on their respective camshafts; if the
timing belt alone is being renewed, both
pulleys should still be securely fastened.
16 A holding tool will be required to prevent
the camshaft toothed pulleys from rotating
while their bolts are slackened and
retightened; either obtain Ford service tool
15-030A, or fabricate a substitute as follows.
Find two lengths of steel strip, one
approximately 600 mm long and the other
about 200 mm, and three bolts with nuts and
washers; one nut and bolt forming the pivot of
a forked tool, with the remaining nuts and
bolts at the tips of the “forks”, to engage with
the pulley spokes as shown in the
accompanying illustrations. Note: Do not use
the camshaft-aligning tool (whether genuine
Ford or not) to prevent rotation while the
camshaft toothed pulley bolts are slackened
or tightened; the risk of damage to the
camshaft concerned and to the cylinder head
is far too great. Use only a forked holding tool
applied directly to the pulleys, as described.
17 If it is being fitted for the first time, screw
the timing belt tensioner spring retaining pin
into the cylinder head, tightening it to the
specified torque wrench setting. Unbolt the
tensioner, hook the spring on to the pin and
the tensioner backplate, then refit the
tensioner, engaging its backplate on the
locating peg (see illustrations).
18 In all cases, slacken the tensioner bolt (if

2C•10 Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures

10.17A Fitting tensioner spring retaining

pin

10.12 Slacken tensioner bolt, and use

Allen key to rotate tensioner away from

timing belt

10.8 Fit camshaft-aligning tool to ensure

engine is locked with Nos 1 and 4 cylinders

at TDC

necessary), and use an Allen key inserted into
its centre to rotate the tensioner clockwise as
far as possible against spring tension, then
retighten the bolt to secure the tensioner (see
illustration).
19 Fit the timing belt; if the original is being
refitted, ensure that the marks and notes
made on removal are followed, so that the belt
is refitted the same way round, and to run in
the same direction. Starting at the crankshaft
toothed pulley, work anti-clockwise around
the camshaft toothed pulleys and tensioner,
finishing off at the rear guide pulley. The front
run, between the crankshaft and the exhaust
camshaft toothed pulleys, must be kept taut,
without altering the position either of the
crankshaft or of the camshaft(s) - if necessary,
the position of the camshaft toothed pulleys
can be altered by rotating each on its
camshaft (which remains fixed by the aligning
tool). Where the pulley is still fastened, use the
holding tool described in paragraph 16 above
to prevent the pulley from rotating while its
retaining bolt is slackened - the pulley can
then be rotated on the camshaft until the belt
will slip into place; retighten the pulley bolt.
20 When the belt is in place, slacken the
tensioner bolt gently until the spring pulls the
tensioner against the belt; the tensioner
should be retained correctly against the timing
belt inner shield and cylinder head, but must
be just free to respond to changes in belt
tension (see illustration).
21 Tighten both camshaft toothed pulley
bolts (or check that they are tight, as
applicable) and remove the camshaft-aligning
tool. Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley,

and rotate the crankshaft through two full
turns clockwise to settle and tension the
timing belt, returning the crankshaft (pulley
notches) to the position described in
paragraph 6 above. Refit the camshaft-
aligning tool; it should slip into place as
described in paragraph 8. If all is well,
proceed to paragraph 24 below.
22 If one camshaft is only just out of line, fit
the forked holding tool to its toothed pulley,
adjust its position as required, and check that
any slack created has been taken up by the
tensioner; rotate the crankshaft through two
further turns clockwise, and refit the
camshaft-aligning tool to check that it now fits
as it should. If all is well, proceed to
paragraph 24 below.
23 If either camshaft is significantly out of
line, use the holding tool described in
paragraph 16 above to prevent its pulley from
rotating while its retaining bolt is slackened -
the camshaft can then be rotated (gently and
carefully, using an open-ended spanner) until
the camshaft-aligning tool will slip into place;
take care not to disturb the relationship of the
pulley to the timing belt. Without disturbing
the pulley’s new position on the camshaft,
tighten the pulley bolt to its specified torque
wrench setting (see illustration). Remove the
camshaft-aligning tool, rotate the crankshaft
through two further turns clockwise, and refit
the tool to check that it now fits as it should.
24 When the timing belt has been settled at
its correct tension, and the camshaft-aligning
tool fits correctly when the crankshaft pulley
notches are exactly aligned, tighten the
tensioner bolt to its specified torque wrench

setting (see illustration). Fitting the forked
holding tool to the spokes of each pulley in
turn, check that the pulley bolts are tightened
to their specified torque wrench setting.
Remove the camshaft-aligning tool, rotate the
crankshaft through two further turns
clockwise, and refit the tool to make a final
check that it fits as it should.
25 The remainder of the reassembly
procedure is the reverse of removal, ensuring
that all fasteners are tightened to the specified
torque.

11 Timing belt tensioner and

toothed pulleys - removal,
inspection and refitting

4

Tensioner

Note: If the tensioner is being removed for the
first time since the vehicle left the factory, a
tensioner spring and retaining pin must be
obtained for fitting on reassembly.
1 While it is possible to reach the tensioner
once the timing belt upper and middle covers
only have been removed (see Section 9), the
whole procedure outlined below must be
followed, to ensure that the valve timing is
correctly reset once the belt’s tension has
been disturbed.
2 Release the tension from the timing belt as
described in Section 10, paragraphs 1 to 12.
3 Unscrew the tensioner bolt and withdraw
the tensioner, unhooking the spring, if fitted
(see illustration). Check the tensioner and
spring as described in paragraph 14 of
Section 10.

Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2C•11

10.20 Slacken tensioner bolt to give initial

belt tension

11.3 Removing timing belt tensioner

10.24 When setting is correct, tighten

tensioner bolt to specified torque wrench

setting

10.23 Using forked holding tool while

camshaft toothed pulley bolt is tightened

2C

10.18 . . . then use Allen key to position

tensioner so that timing belt can be

refitted

10.17B Hook spring onto tensioner and

refit as shown - engage tensioner

backplate on locating peg (arrowed) . . .

4 On reassembly, if it is being fitted for the
first time, screw the timing belt tensioner
spring retaining pin into the cylinder head,
tightening it to the specified torque wrench
setting. Hook the spring onto the pin and the
tensioner backplate, then refit the tensioner,
engaging its backplate on the locating peg.
5 Use an Allen key inserted into its centre to
rotate the tensioner clockwise as far as
possible against spring tension, then tighten
the bolt to secure the tensioner.
6 Reassemble, checking the camshaft
alignment (valve timing) and setting the timing
belt tension, as described in paragraphs 20 to
25 of Section 10.

Camshaft and crankshaft
toothed pulleys

7 While it may be possible to remove any of
these pulleys once the relevant belt covers
have been removed, the complete timing belt
removal/refitting procedure (see Section 10)
must be followed, to ensure that the valve
timing is correctly reset once the belt’s
tension has been disturbed.
8 With the timing belt removed, the camshaft
toothed pulleys can be detached once their
retaining bolts have been unscrewed as
described in paragraphs 16 and 19 of Section
10. The crankshaft toothed pulley can be
pulled off the end of the crankshaft, once the
crankshaft (grooved) pulley and the timing belt
have been removed. Note the “FRONT”
marking identifying the pulley’s outboard face,
and the thrustwasher behind it; note which
way round the thrustwasher is fitted (see
illustration). Note the pulley-locating
Woodruff key; if this is loose, it should be
removed for safe storage with the pulley.
9 Check the pulleys as described in
paragraph 14 of Section 10.
10 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.

Timing belt guide pulleys

11 Remove the timing belt covers (see
Section 9).
12 Unbolt and withdraw the pulley(s); check
their condition as described in paragraph 14
of Section 10.
13 Refitting is the reverse of the removal

procedure; tighten the pulley bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting (see
illustration).

12 Camshaft oil seals -

renewal

4

Note: While it is possible to reach either oil
seal, once the respective toothed pulley has
been removed (see Section 11) to allow the
seal to be prised out, this procedure is not
recommended. Not only are the seals very
soft, making this difficult to do without risk of
damage to the seal housing, but it would be
very difficult to ensure that the valve timing
and the timing belt’s tension, once disturbed,
are correctly reset. Owners are advised to
follow the whole procedure outlined below.
1 Release the tension from the timing belt as
described in Section 10, paragraphs 1 to 12.
Note: If the timing belt is found to be
contaminated by oil, remove it completely as
described, then renew the oil seal (see below).
Wash down the engine timing belt area and all
related components, to remove all traces of
oil. Fit a new belt on reassembly.
2 If the timing belt is still clean, slip it off the
toothed pulley, taking care not to twist it too
sharply; use the fingers only to handle the
belt. Do not rotate the crankshaft until the
timing belt is refitted. Cover the belt, and
secure it so that it is clear of the working area

and cannot slip off the remaining toothed
pulley.
3 Unfasten the pulley bolt and withdraw the
pulley (see Section 11).
4 Unbolt the camshaft right-hand bearing
cap, and withdraw the defective oil seal.
Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
burrs or raised edges, which may have
caused the seal to fail in the first place.
5 To fit a new seal, Ford recommend the use
of their service tool 21-009B, with a bolt
(10 mm thread size, 70 mm long) and a
washer, to draw the seal into place when the
camshaft bearing cap is bolted down; a
substitute can be made using a suitable
socket (see illustration). Grease the seal lips
and periphery to ease installation, and draw
the seal into place until it is flush with the
housing/bearing cap outer edge. Refit
the bearing cap, using sealant and tightening
the cap bolts as described in Section 13.
6 For most owners, the simplest answer will
be to grease the seal lips, and to slide it onto
the camshaft (until it is flush with the
housing’s outer edge). Refit the bearing cap,
using sealant and tightening the cap bolts as
described in Section 13 (see illustration).
Take care to ensure that the seal remains
absolutely square in its housing, and is not
distorted as the cap is tightened down.
7 Refit the pulley to the camshaft, tightening
the retaining bolt loosely, then slip the timing
belt back onto the pulley (refer to para-
graphs 16 and 19 of Section 10) and tighten
the bolt securely.
8 The remainder of the reassembly
procedure, including checking the camshaft
alignment (valve timing) and setting the timing
belt tension, is as described in paragraphs 20
to 25 of Section 10.

13 Camshafts and hydraulic

tappets - removal, inspection
and refitting

4

Removal

1 Release the tension from the timing belt as
described in Section 10, paragraphs 1 to 12.
2 Either remove the timing belt completely
(Section 10, paragraphs 13 and 14) or slip it

2C•12 Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures

12.6 Alternatively, seal can be inserted

when camshaft bearing cap is unbolted

12.5 Using socket and toothed pulley bolt

to install camshaft oil seal

11.13 Tighten timing belt guide pulley

bolts to specified torque settings on

refitting

11.8 Note “FRONT” marking on outside

face of crankshaft toothed pulley - note

which way round thrustwasher behind is

fitted

off the camshaft toothed pulleys, taking care
not to twist it too sharply; use the fingers only
to handle the belt. Cover the belt, and secure
it so that it is clear of the working area. Do not
rotate the crankshaft until the timing belt is
refitted.
3 Unfasten the pulley bolts as described in
Section 10, paragraphs 16 and 19, and
withdraw the pulleys; while both are the same
and could be interchanged, it is good working
practice to mark them so that each is refitted
only to its original location (see illustration).
4 Working in the sequence shown, slacken
progressively, by half a turn at a time, the
camshaft bearing cap bolts (see illustration).
Work only as described, to release gradually
and evenly the pressure of the valve springs
on the caps.
5 Withdraw the caps, noting their markings
and the presence of the locating dowels, then
remove the camshafts and withdraw their oil
seals. The inlet camshaft can be identified by
the reference lobe for the camshaft position
sensor; therefore, there is no need to mark the
camshafts (see illustrations).
6 Obtain sixteen small, clean containers, and
number them 1 to 16. Using a rubber sucker,
withdraw each hydraulic tappet in turn, invert
it to prevent oil loss, and place it in its
respective container, which should then be
filled with clean engine oil (see illustrations).
Do not interchange the hydraulic tappets, or
the rate of wear will be much increased. Do
not allow them to lose oil, or they will take a

long time to refill on restarting the engine,
resulting in incorrect valve clearances.

Inspection

7 With the camshafts and hydraulic tappets
removed, check each for signs of obvious
wear (scoring, pitting etc) and for ovality, and
renew if necessary.
8 Measure the outside diameter of each
tappet (see illustration) - take measurements
at the top and bottom of each tappet, then a
second set at right-angles to the first; if any
measurement is significantly different from the
others, the tappet is tapered or oval (as
applicable) and must be renewed. If the
necessary equipment is available, measure
the inside diameter of the corresponding
cylinder head bore. Compare the
measurements obtained to those given in the
Specifications Section of this Chapter; if the
tappets or the cylinder head bores are
excessively worn, new tappets and/or a new
cylinder head will be required.
9 If the engine’s valve components have
sounded noisy, particularly if the noise
persists after initial start-up from cold, there is
reason to suspect a faulty hydraulic tappet.
Only a good mechanic experienced in these
engines can tell whether the noise level is
typical, or if renewal of one or more of the
tappets is warranted. If faulty tappets are
diagnosed, and the engine’s service history is
unknown, it is always worth trying the effect of

renewing the engine oil and filter (see Chapter
1), using only good-quality engine oil of the
recommended viscosity and specification,
before going to the expense of renewing any
of the tappets - refer also to the advice in
Section 1 of this Chapter.
10 Visually examine the camshaft lobes for
score marks, pitting, galling (wear due to
rubbing) and evidence of overheating (blue,
discoloured areas). Look for flaking away of
the hardened surface layer of each lobe. If any
such signs are evident, renew the component
concerned.
11 Examine the camshaft bearing journals
and the cylinder head bearing surfaces for
signs of obvious wear or pitting. If any such
signs are evident, renew the component
concerned.

Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2C•13

13.5A Note locating dowels when

removing camshaft bearing caps

13.4 Camshaft bearing cap slackening

sequence

Note: Viewed from front of vehicle, showing

bearing cap numbers

13.3 Using forked holding tool while

camshaft toothed pulley bolt is slackened

13.8 Use a micrometer to measure

diameter of hydraulic tappets

13.6B Hydraulic tappets must be stored as

described in text

13.6A Removing hydraulic tappets

13.5B Inlet camshaft has lobe for

camshaft position sensor

2C