Ford Orion. Manual — part 19

12 Using a micrometer, measure the
diameter of each journal at several points. If
the diameter of any one journal is less
than the specified value, renew the cam-
shaft.
13 To check the bearing journal running
clearance, remove the hydraulic tappets, use
a suitable solvent and a clean lint-free rag to
clean carefully all bearing surfaces, then refit
the camshafts and bearing caps with a strand
of Plastigage across each journal. Tighten the
bearing cap bolts to the specified torque
wrench setting (do not rotate the camshafts),
then remove the bearing caps and use the
scale provided to measure the width of the
compressed strands. Scrape off the
Plastigage with your fingernail or the edge of a
credit card - don’t scratch or nick the journals
or bearing caps.
14 If the running clearance of any bearing is
found to be worn to beyond the specified
service limits, fit a new camshaft and repeat
the check; if the clearance is still excessive,
the cylinder head must be renewed.
15 To check camshaft endfloat, remove the
hydraulic tappets, clean the bearing surfaces
carefully, and refit the camshafts and bearing
caps. Tighten the bearing cap bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting, then
measure the endfloat using a DTI (Dial Test
Indicator, or dial gauge) mounted on the

cylinder head so that its tip bears on the
camshaft right-hand end.
16 Tap the camshaft fully towards the gauge,
zero the gauge, then tap the camshaft fully
away from the gauge, and note the gauge
reading. If the endfloat measured is found to
be at or beyond the specified service limit, fit
a new camshaft and repeat the check; if the
clearance is still excessive, the cylinder head
must be renewed.

Refitting

17 On reassembly, liberally oil the cylinder
head hydraulic tappet bores and the tappets
(see illustration). Note that if new tappets are
being fitted, they must be charged with clean
engine oil before installation. Carefully refit the
tappets to the cylinder head, ensuring that
each tappet is refitted to its original bore, and
is the correct way up. Some care will be
required to enter the tappets squarely into
their bores.
18 Liberally oil the camshaft bearings and
lobes. Ensuring that each camshaft is in its
original location, refit the camshafts, locating
each so that the slot in its left-hand end is
approximately parallel to, and just above, the
cylinder head mating surface.
19 Ensure that the locating dowels are
pressed firmly into their recesses, and check
that all mating surfaces are completely clean,
unmarked and free from oil. Apply a thin film
of suitable sealant (Ford recommend
Loctite 518) to the mating surfaces of each

camshaft’s right-hand bearing cap (see
illustration). Referring to paragraph 6 of
Section 12, some owners may wish to fit the
new camshaft oil seals at this stage.
20 All camshaft bearing caps have a single-
digit identifying number etched on them (see
illustration). The exhaust camshaft’s bearing
caps are numbered in sequence 0 (right-hand
cap) to 4 (left-hand cap), the inlet’s 5 (right-
hand cap) to 9 (left-hand cap); see illus-
tration 13.21 for details. Each cap is to be fitted
so that its numbered side faces outwards, to
the front (exhaust) or to the rear (inlet).
21 Ensuring that each cap is kept square to
the cylinder head as it is tightened down, and
working in the sequence shown, tighten the
camshaft bearing cap bolts slowly and by one
turn at a time, until each cap touches the
cylinder head (see illustration). Next, go
round again in the same sequence, tightening
the bolts to the first stage torque wrench
setting specified, then once more, tightening
them to the second stage setting. Work only
as described, to impose gradually and evenly
the pressure of the valve springs on the caps.
Fit the camshaft-aligning tool; it should slip
into place as described in paragraph 8 of
Section 10 (see illustration).
22 Wipe off all surplus sealant, so that none
is left to find its way into any oilways. Follow
the sealant manufacturer’s manuals as to
the time needed for curing; usually, at least an
hour must be allowed between application of
the sealant and starting the engine.
23 If using Ford’s recommended procedure,
fit new oil seals to the camshafts as described
in paragraph 5 of Section 12.
24 Using the marks and notes made on
dismantling to ensure that each is refitted to
its original camshaft, refit the toothed pulleys
to the camshafts, tightening the retaining
bolts loosely. Slip the timing belt back onto
the pulleys (refer to paragraph 19 of Sec-
tion 10) and tighten the bolts securely - use
the forked holding tool described in
paragraph 16 of Section 10.
25 The remainder of the reassembly
procedure, including checking the camshaft
alignment (valve timing) and setting the timing
belt tension, is as described in paragraphs 15
to 25 of Section 10.

2C•14 Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures

13.21B Fit camshaft-aligning tool to set

TDC position while camshaft toothed

pulleys are refitted

13.21A Camshaft bearing cap tightening

sequence

Note: View from front of vehicle - locate

bearing caps according to etched numbers,

aligned as described in text

13.20 Etched marks on camshaft bearing

caps must be arranged as shown, and face

outwards

13.19 Apply sealant to mating surface of

camshaft right-hand bearing caps

13.17 Oil liberally when refitting hydraulic

tappets

14 Cylinder head -

removal and refitting

4

Removal

Note: The following text assumes that the
cylinder head will be removed with both inlet
and exhaust manifolds attached. This
simplifies the procedure, but makes it a bulky
and heavy assembly to handle - an engine
hoist will be required, to prevent the risk of
injury, and to prevent damage to any delicate
components as the assembly is removed and
refitted. If it is wished first to remove the
manifolds, proceed as described in Sections 6
and 7 of this Chapter; amend the following
procedure accordingly.
1 Depressurise the fuel system (see Chap-
ter 4B).
2 With the vehicle parked on firm level
ground, open the bonnet and disconnect the
battery negative (earth) lead - see Chapter 5,
Section 1.
3 Whenever you disconnect any vacuum
lines, coolant and emissions hoses, wiring
loom connectors, earth straps and fuel lines
as part of the following procedure, always
label them clearly, so that they can be
correctly reassembled. Masking tape and/or a
touch-up paint applicator work well for
marking items. Take instant photos, or sketch
the locations of components and brackets.
4 Refer to Chapter 4B and remove the air inlet
hose and inlet duct.
5 Equalise the pressure in the fuel tank by
removing the filler cap, then undo the fuel
feed and return lines connecting the engine to
the chassis (see Chapter 4B). Plug or cap all
open fittings.
6 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4B.
Secure the cable clear of the engine/
transmission.
7 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chapter 1).
8 Refer to Chapter 10 and remove the power
steering pump. Releasing its wire clip, unplug
the power steering pressure switch electrical
connector, then unbolt the earth lead from the

cylinder head rear support plate/engine lifting
eye.
9 Remove the three screws securing the
wiring “rail” to the rear of the manifold.
Releasing its wire clip, unplug the large
electrical connector (next to the fuel pressure
regulator) to disconnect the engine wiring
from the main loom (see illustration). Unplug
the electrical connectors on each side of the
ignition coil, and the single connector from
beneath the front of the thermostat housing,
to disconnect the coil and coolant
temperature gauge sender wiring (see
illustration).
10 Marking or labelling them as they are
unplugged, disconnect the vacuum hoses as
follows:
a)

One from the rear of the throttle housing
(only the one hose - there is no need to
disconnect the second hose running to
the fuel pressure regulator).

b)

One from the union on the inlet manifold’s
left-hand end.

c)

The braking system vacuum servo unit
hose (see Chapter 9 for details).

11 Unbolt both parts of the exhaust manifold
heat shield. Either remove the dipstick and
tube, or swing them out of the way.
12 Unscrew the single bolt securing the
pulse-air filter housing to the engine/
transmission front mounting bracket, then
disconnect its vacuum hose.
13 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
14 Disconnect all coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing (see illustration).
15 Unscrew the two nuts to disconnect the
exhaust system front downpipe from the
manifold (Chapter 4B); disconnect the oxygen
sensor wiring, so that it is not strained by the
weight of the exhaust system.
16 Support the weight of the engine/
transmission using a trolley jack, with a
wooden spacer to prevent damage to the
sump.
17 Remove the timing belt and both
camshafts (see Sections 10 and 13); if the
cylinder head is to be dismantled, withdraw
the hydraulic tappets.
18 Remove the timing belt inner shield (see
Section 9).

19 Working in the reverse of the sequence
shown in illustration 14.30A, slacken the ten
cylinder head bolts progressively and by one
turn at a time; a Torx key (TX 55 size) will be
required. Remove each bolt in turn, and
ensure that new replacements are obtained
for reassembly; these bolts are subjected to
severe stresses and so must be renewed,
regardless of their apparent condition,
whenever they are disturbed.
20 Lift the cylinder head away; use
assistance if possible, as it is a heavy
assembly. Remove the gasket, noting the two
dowels, and discard it.

Refitting

21 The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block must be perfectly clean before
refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wood
scraper to remove all traces of gasket and
carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take
particular care, as the soft aluminium alloy is
easily damaged. Also, make sure that the
carbon is not allowed to enter the oil and
water passages - this is particularly important
for the lubrication system, as carbon could
block the oil supply to any of the engine’s
components. Using adhesive tape and paper,
seal the water, oil and bolt holes in the
cylinder block. Clean all the pistons in the
same way.

22 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep
scratches and other damage. If slight, they
may be removed carefully with a file, but if
excessive, machining may be the only
alternative to renewal.
23 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight edge to

Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2C•15

14.14 Disconnect all coolant hoses from

thermostat housing

14.9B Unplug connectors (arrowed) to

disconnect ignition coil wiring

14.9A Unplug engine wiring loom

connector alongside the inlet manifold

2C

To prevent carbon entering
the gap between the pistons
and bores, smear a little
grease in the gap. After

cleaning each piston, use a small brush
to remove all traces of grease and
carbon from the gap, then wipe away
the remainder with a clean rag.

check it for distortion. Refer to Part D of this
Chapter, if necessary.
24 Wipe clean the mating surfaces of the
cylinder head and cylinder block. Check that
the two locating dowels are in position in the
cylinder block, and that all cylinder head bolt
holes are free from oil.
25 Position a new gasket over the dowels on
the cylinder block surface, so that the
“TOP/OBEN” mark is uppermost, and with the
tooth (or teeth, according to engine size)
protruding from the front edge (see
illustration).
26 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley,
and rotate the crankshaft anti-clockwise so

that No 1 cylinder’s piston is lowered to
approximately 20 mm before TDC, thus
avoiding any risk of valve/piston contact and
damage during reassembly.
27 As the cylinder head is such a heavy and
awkward assembly to refit with manifolds, it is
helpful to make up a pair of guide studs from
two 10 mm (thread size) studs approximately
90 mm long, with a screwdriver slot cut in one
end - two old cylinder head bolts with their
heads cut off would make a good starting
point. Screw these guide studs, screwdriver
slot upwards to permit removal, into the bolt
holes at diagonally-opposite corners of the
cylinder block surface (or into those where the
locating dowels are fitted, as shown); ensure
that approximately 70 mm of stud protrudes
above the gasket.
28 Refit the cylinder head, sliding it down the
guide studs (if used) and locating it on the
dowels. Unscrew the guide studs (if used)
when the head is in place.
29 Fit the new cylinder head bolts dry (do not
oil their threads); carefully enter each into its
hole and screw it in, by hand only, until finger-
tight.
30 Working progressively and in the
sequence shown, use first a torque wrench,
then an ordinary socket extension bar and an
angle gauge, to tighten the cylinder head bolts
in the stages given in the Specifications
Section of this Chapter (see illustrations).
Note: Once tightened correctly, following this
procedure, the cylinder head bolts do not
require check-tightening, and must not be re-
torqued.
31 Refit the hydraulic tappets (if removed),
the camshafts, their oil seals and pulleys (see
Sections 10, 11, 12 and 13, as appropriate).
Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, and
rotate the crankshaft clockwise to return the
pulley notches to the position described in
paragraph 6 of Section 10.
32 Refit the timing belt and covers, checking
the camshaft alignment (valve timing) and
setting the timing belt tension, as described in
Section 10.
33 The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, noting the
following points:
a)

Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench
settings specified.

b)

Refill the cooling system, and top-up the
engine oil.

c)

Check all disturbed joints for signs of oil
or coolant leakage, once the engine has
been restarted and warmed-up to normal
operating temperature.

d)

If the power steering hoses where
disconnected, bleed the system as
described in Chapter 10 after
reconnection.

15 Sump - removal and refitting

2

Removal

Note: The full procedure outlined below must
be followed, so that the mating surfaces can
be cleaned and prepared to achieve an oil-
tight joint on reassembly, and so that the
sump can be aligned correctly; depending on
your skill and experience, and the tools and
facilities available, it may be that this task can
be carried out only with the engine removed
from the vehicle. Note that the sump gasket
must be renewed whenever it is disturbed.
1 With the vehicle parked on firm level
ground, open the bonnet and disconnect the
battery negative (earth) lead - see Chapter 5,
Section 1.
2 Drain the engine oil, then clean and refit the
engine oil drain plug, tightening it to the
specified torque wrench setting. Although not
strictly necessary as part of the dismantling
procedure, owners are advised to remove and
discard the oil filter, so that it can be renewed
with the oil (see Chapter 1).
3 Refer to Chapter 5 and remove the starter
motor.
4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (see
Chapter 1).
5 Unplug the electrical connector(s) to
disconnect the oxygen sensor.
6 Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the
exhaust system front downpipe from the
manifold, then either unhook all the system’s
rubber mountings and withdraw the complete
exhaust system from under the vehicle, or
remove only the downpipe/catalytic converter
(see Chapter 4B for details).
7 Unscrew the sump-to-transmission bolts,
also any securing the engine/transmission
lower adapter plate.
8 Progressively unscrew the sump retaining
bolts. Break the joint by striking the sump with
the palm of the hand, then lower the sump
and withdraw it with the engine/transmission
lower adapter plate (where fitted); note the
presence of any shims between the sump and
transmission.
9 Remove and discard the sump gasket; this
must be renewed as a matter of course
whenever it is disturbed.
10 While the sump is removed, take the
opportunity to remove the oil pump pick-
up/strainer pipe and to clean it (see Sec-
tion 16).

2C•16 Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures

14.30C . . . and to Stage 3 using angle

gauge

14.30B Tightening cylinder head bolts

(Stages 1 and 2) using torque wrench . . .

14.30A Cylinder head bolt tightening

sequence

Note: View from rear of vehicle

14.25 Ensuring protruding tooth (or teeth)

“A” are at front and marking “B” is

upwards, locate new cylinder head gasket

on dowels “C”

Refitting

11 On reassembly, thoroughly clean and
degrease the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block/crankcase and sump, then use a clean
rag to wipe out the sump and the engine’s
interior. If the oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe
was removed, fit a new gasket and refit the
pipe, tightening its screws to the specified
torque wrench setting. Fit the new gasket to
the sump mating surface so that the gasket
fits into the sump groove (see illustration).
12 If the sump is being refitted with the
engine/transmission still connected and in the
vehicle, proceed as follows:
a)

Check that the mating surfaces of the
sump, the cylinder block/crankcase and
the transmission are absolutely clean and
flat. Any shims found on removal of the
sump must be refitted in their original
locations.

b)

Apply a thin film of suitable sealant (Ford
recommend Hylosil 102) to the junctions
of the cylinder block/crankcase with the
oil pump and the crankshaft left-hand oil
seal carrier. Without delay - the sump
bolts must be fully tightened within 10 to
20 minutes of applying the sealant - offer
up the sump and engine/transmission
lower adapter plate, and refit the bolts,
tightening them lightly at first.

c)

Ensuring that the engine/transmission
lower adapter plate is correctly located,
firmly press the sump against the
transmission, and tighten the

transmission-to-sump (ie, engine) bolts to
the specified torque wrench setting.

d)

Without disturbing the position of the
sump, and working in a diagonal
sequence from the centre outwards,
tighten the sump bolts to the specified
torque wrench setting.

e)

Proceed to paragraph 14.

13 If the sump is being refitted with the
engine and transmission separated (in or out
of the vehicle), proceed as follows:

a)

Apply a thin film of suitable sealant (Ford
recommend Hylosil 102) to the junctions
of the cylinder block/crankcase with the
oil pump and the crankshaft left-hand oil
seal carrier (see illustration). Without
delay - the sump bolts must be fully
tightened within 10 to 20 minutes of
applying the sealant - offer up the sump
to the cylinder block/crankcase, and
insert the sump bolts, tightening them
lightly at first.

b)

Using a suitable straight edge to check
alignment across the flat-machined faces
of each, move the sump as necessary so
that its left-hand face - including any
shims found on removal - is flush with
that of the cylinder block/crankcase (see
illustration). Without disturbing the
position of the sump, and working in a
diagonal sequence from the centre
outwards, tighten the sump bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.

c)

Check again that both faces are flush
before proceeding; if necessary, unbolt
the sump again, clean the mating

surfaces, and repeat the full procedure to
ensure that the sump is correctly aligned.

d)

If it is not possible to achieve exact
alignment by moving the sump, shims are
available in thicknesses of 0.25 mm
(colour-coded yellow) or 0.50 mm (colour-
coded black) to eliminate the discrepancy
(see illustration).

14 The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, noting the
following points.
a)

Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench
settings specified.

b)

Always renew any self-locking nuts
disturbed on removal.

c)

Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).

d)

Refill the engine with oil, remembering
that you are advised to fit a new filter (see
Chapter 1).

e)

Check for signs of oil or coolant leaks
once the engine has been restarted and
warmed-up to normal operating
temperature.

16 Oil pump - removal,

inspection and refitting

4

Removal

Note: While this task is theoretically possible
when the engine is in place in the vehicle, in
practice, it requires so much preliminary
dismantling, and is so difficult to carry out due
to the restricted access, that owners are
advised to remove the engine from the vehicle
first. Note, however, that the oil pump
pressure relief valve can be removed with the
engine in situ - see paragraph 8.
1 Remove the timing belt (see Section 10).
2 Withdraw the crankshaft toothed pulley and
the thrustwasher behind it, noting which way
round the thrustwasher is fitted (see Sec-
tion 11).
3 Remove the sump (see Section 15).
4 Undo the screws securing the oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe to the pump, then
unscrew the nut and withdraw the oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe. Discard the gasket.
5 Unbolt the pump from the cylinder
block/crankcase

(see illustration). Withdraw

Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2C•17

15.13B Checking alignment of sump with

cylinder block/crankcase

15.13A Apply sealant (arrowed) as

directed when refitting sump

15.11 Ensure gasket is located correctly in

sump groove

16.5 Unscrew bolts (arrowed) to remove

oil pump

15.13C Sump-to-cylinder block/crankcase

alignment shims

1 Fitting points on sump 2 Shim

2C