Ford Orion. Manual — part 11

5 Clean all traces of the old gasket from the
mating surfaces of the pump and engine.

Refitting

6 If the original oil pump has been dismantled
and reassembled and is to be re-used, or if a
new pump is to be fitted, it must first be
primed with engine oil prior to fitting. To do
this, turn its driveshaft and simultaneously
inject clean engine oil into it.
7 Locate a new gasket into position on the
pump mounting flange, then insert the pump,
engaging the drivegear as it is fitted (see
illustration). Fit the retaining bolts, and
tighten to the specified torque wrench setting.
8 Fit a new oil filter into position on the oil
pump body, as described in Chapter 1.
9 Lower the vehicle to the ground, and top-
up the engine oil level to replenish that lost
during the previous operations.

16 Oil pump - dismantling,

inspection and reassembly

3

Dismantling

1 To inspect the oil pump components for
excessive wear, undo the retaining bolts and
remove the cover plate from the pump body.
Remove the O-ring seal from the cover face
(see illustration).
2 Wipe the exterior of the pump housing
clean housing.

Inspection

3 Noting their orientation, extract and clean
the rotors and the inner body of the pump
housing. Inspect them for signs of severe
scoring or excessive wear, which if evident
will necessitate renewal of the complete
pump.
4 Using feeler gauges, check the clearances
between the pump body and the outer rotor,
the inner-to-outer rotor clearance, and the
amount of rotor endfloat (see illustrations).
5 Check the drivegear for signs of excessive
wear or damage.
6 If the clearances measured are outside the
specified maximum clearances and/or the
drivegear is in poor condition, the complete
pump unit must be renewed.

Reassembly

7 Refit the rotors into the pump (in their
original orientation), lubricate the rotors and
the new O-ring seal with clean engine oil, and
refit the cover. Tighten the retaining bolts to
the specified torque wrench setting.

17 Crankshaft oil seals -

renewal

3

Front oil seal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2 Apply the handbrake, then raise the vehicle
at the front end and support it on axle stands.

3 Refer to Section 11 for details and remove
the crankshaft pulley.
4 Using a suitable claw tool, extract the oil
seal from the timing chain cover, but take care
not to damage the seal housing. As it is
removed, note the fitted orientation of the seal
in the cover.
5 Clean the oil seal housing in the timing
chain cover. Lubricate the sealing lips of the
new seal and the crankshaft stub with clean
engine oil.
6 Locate the new seal into position so that it
is squarely located on the crankshaft stub and
in the housing, and is correctly orientated.
Drift it initially into position by fitting a
temporary distance piece against the seal,
then draw it fully home by refitting the
crankshaft pulley and retaining bolt.
7 When the seal is fully fitted, remove the
crankshaft pulley bolt, pulley and distance
piece.
8 Lightly lubricate the rubbing surface of the
pulley, then refit the pulley as described in
Section 11.

Rear oil seal

9 Remove the flywheel as described in
Section 19.
10 Using a suitable claw tool, lever the seal
from the rear seal housing (taking care not to
damage the housing). As it is removed, note
the fitted orientation of the seal.
11 Clean the seal housing, the crankshaft
rear flange face and the flywheel mating
surface.
12 One of two possible methods may be
used to insert the new oil seal, depending on
the tools available.
13 If Ford service tool No 21-011 is available,
lubricate the crankshaft flange and the oil seal
inner lip with clean engine oil. Position the
seal onto the service tool (ensuring correct
orientation), then press the seal into its
housing.
14 If the service tool is not available, remove
the engine sump (Section 14), then unscrew
the Torx-head bolts retaining the rear seal
housing in position, and remove the seal
housing from the rear face of the cylinder
block. New gaskets will be required for both
the seal housing and the sump when refitting.

2A•10 HCS engine – in-car engine repair procedures

16.4C Checking the rotor endfloat

16.4B Checking the inner rotor-to-outer

rotor clearance

16.4A Checking the outer body-to-rotor

clearance

16.1 Extract the O-ring from the groove in

the oil pump

15.7 Refitting the oil pump. Note the new

gasket

Clean the seal housing seat and the mating
surfaces of the sump and the crankcase. To fit
the seal squarely into its housing without
damaging either component, place a flat
block of wood across the seal, then carefully
tap the seal into position in the housing. Do
not allow the seal to tilt as it is being fitted.
Lubricate the crankshaft flange and the oil
seal inner lip with clean engine oil, then with a
new gasket located on the seal
housing/crankcase face, fit the housing into
position. Take care not damage the seal lips
as it is passed over the crankshaft rear flange
(see illustrations). Centralise the seal on the
shaft, then insert and tighten the housing
retaining bolts to the specified torque setting.
Refit the sump with reference to Section 14.
15 Check that the crankshaft rear flange and
the flywheel mating faces are clean, then refit
the flywheel as described in Section 19.

18 Engine/transmission

mountings - inspection and
renewal

1

Inspection

1 The engine/transmission mountings seldom
require attention, but broken or deteriorated
mountings should be renewed immediately, or
the added strain placed on the driveline
components may cause damage or wear.
2 During the check, the engine/transmission
must be raised slightly, to remove its weight
from the mountings.
3 Apply the handbrake, then raise the front of
the vehicle, and support it securely on axle
stands. Position a jack under the sump, with a
large block of wood between the jack head
and the sump, then carefully raise the
engine/transmission just enough to take the
weight off the mountings.
4 Check the mountings to see if the rubber is
cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal components. Sometimes, the rubber
will split right down the centre.
5 Check for relative movement between each
mounting’s brackets and the engine/
transmission or body (use a large screwdriver

or lever to attempt to move the mountings). If
movement is noted, lower the engine and
check-tighten the mounting fasteners.

Renewal

6 The engine mountings can be removed if
the weight of the engine/transmission is

supported by one of the following alternative
methods.
7 Either support the weight of the assembly
from underneath using a jack and a suitable
piece of wood between the jack saddle and
the sump (to prevent damage), or from above
by attaching a hoist to the engine. A third
method is to use a suitable support bar with
end pieces which will engage in the water
channel each side of the bonnet lid aperture.
Using an adjustable hook and chain
connected to the engine, the weight of the
engine and transmission can then be taken
from the mountings.
8 Once the weight of the engine and
transmission is suitably supported, any of the
mountings can be unbolted and removed. The
accompanying illustrations show the
mountings and their attachments, and should
be used for reference (see illustrations).
As the mountings are disconnected and
removed, note the location and orien-
tation of the fixings and any associated
fittings.

HCS engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•11

17.14B Fitting the rear oil seal housing

with a new gasket in position on the rear

face of the cylinder block

17.14A Positioning the crankshaft rear oil

seal in its housing

18.8A Right-hand engine mounting components

1 Insulator
2 Reinforcement

plate

3 Mounting bracket
4 Support
5 Bolt and washer

6 Bolt
7 Bolt
8 Self-locking nut

9 Self-locking nut

10 Insulator

2A

9 Refitting of all mountings is a reversal of the
removal procedure. Ensure that the original
sequence of washers and associated fittings
are correctly fitted.
10 Do not fully tighten the mounting
fasteners until all of the mountings are in
position. Check that the mounting rubbers do
not twist or distort as the mounting bolts and
nuts are tightened to their specified torque
wrench settings.

19 Flywheel - removal,

inspection and refitting

3

Refitting

1 Remove the transmission as described in
Chapter 7A, then remove the clutch as
described in Chapter 8.
2 Unscrew the six retaining bolts, and remove

the flywheel from the rear end flange of the
crankshaft - take care not to drop the
flywheel, as it is heavy. A tool similar to that
shown in illustration 19.5 can be fitted to
prevent the flywheel/crankshaft from rotating
as the bolts are removed. If on removal the
retaining bolts are found to be in poor
condition (stretched threads, etc) they must
be renewed.

Inspection

3 Inspect the starter ring gear on the flywheel
for any broken or excessively-worn teeth. If
evident, the ring gear must be renewed; this is
a task best entrusted to a Ford dealer or a
competent garage. Alternatively, it may be
cheaper to obtain a complete flywheel from a
car breaker.
4 The clutch friction surface on the flywheel
must be carefully inspected for grooving or
hairline cracks (caused by overheating). If
these conditions are evident, it may be
possible to have the flywheel surface-ground
to renovate it, providing that the balance is
not upset. Regrinding is a task for an
automotive engineer. If surface-grinding is not
possible, the flywheel must be renewed.

Refitting

5 Check that the mating faces of the flywheel
and the crankshaft are clean before refitting.
Lubricate the threads of the retaining bolts
with engine oil before they are screwed into
position. Locate the flywheel onto the
crankshaft, and insert the bolts. Hand-tighten
them initially, then tighten them in a
progressive sequence to the specified torque
wrench setting (see illustration).
6 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6.

2A•12 HCS engine – in-car engine repair procedures

19.5 Tightening the flywheel retaining

bolts to the specified torque

Note the “peg” tool jamming the ring gear

teeth to prevent the flywheel/crankshaft from

rotating.

18.8B Left-hand engine/transmission mounting components

1 Engine support

insulator

2 Mounting bracket

3 Bracket
4 Support stay
5 Support stay

6 Retainer
7 Bolt and washer
8 Self-locking nut

9 Engine support

bracket

2B

General

Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Four-cylinder, in-line overhead camshaft

Engine code:

1.4 litre engine:

Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

FUH

CFi fuel-injected models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

F6F

1.6 litre engine:

Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

LUK, LUJ

EFi fuel-injected models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

LJE, LJF

Capacity:

1.4 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1392 cc

1.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1596 cc

Bore:

1.4 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

77.42 mm

1.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

79.96 mm

Stroke:

1.4 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

74.30 mm

1.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

79.52 mm

Compression ratio:

1.4 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8.5:1

1.6 litre engine:

Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9.5:1

EFi fuel-injected models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9.75:1

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)

Chapter 2 Part B:
CVH engine - in-car engine repair procedures

Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . .

See Chapter 1

Camshaft oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Camshaft, rocker arms and tappets - removal, inspection

and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3

Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Cylinder head and valve components - cleaning and

inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2D

Cylinder head rocker cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

See Chapter 1

Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

See Chapter 1

Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2D
Engine/transmission - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2D
Engine/transmission mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Exhaust manifold - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 20
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . .

2

Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

See Chapter 1

Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Timing belt - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Timing belt covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection

and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4

Water pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

See Chapter 3

2B•1

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Specifications

Contents