Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus, Plymouth Breeze Haynes. Manual — part 4
1-2
Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance
Recommended lubricants and fluids
Power steering fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Brake fluid. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Engine coolant. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Parking brake mechanism grease . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...
Chassis lubrication grease. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..
Hood, door and trunk hinge lubricant . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Hood latch, door hinge and check spring grease . . . . . . . . ...
Key lock cylinder lubricant. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..
Door latch striker lubricant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..
Capacities*
Engine oil (including filter)
V6 and 2.0L four-cylinder engines. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.4L four-cylinder engine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...
Fuel tank. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..
Automatic transaxle
Dry fill (including torque converter). . . . . . . . . . . . .
Drain and refill. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Manual transaxle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cooling system
2.0L four-cylinder engine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...
2.4L four-cylinder engine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
V6 engine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...
All capacities approximate. Add as necessary to bring to appropriate level.
Brakes
Disc brake pad wear limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Drum brake shoe wear limit . . . . . . . . . . . ..:. . . . . .
Ignition system
Spark plug type
2.0L four-cylinder engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...
2.4L four-cylinder engine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...
V6 engine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...
Spark plug gap
2.0L four-cylinder engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...
2.4L four-cylinder engine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...
V6. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...
Spark plug wire resistance
Four-cylinder engines
Wire numbers 1 and 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..
Wire numbers 2 and 3. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...
V6 engine
Minimum. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...
Maximum. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..
Firing order
Four-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
V6 engine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...
Mopar power steering fluid or equivalent
DOT 3 brake fluid
50/50 mixture of ethylene glycol-based antifreeze and water
White lithium-based grease NLGI no. 2
NLGI no. 2 LB grease
Engine oil
NLGI no. 2 multi-purpose grease
Graphite spray
Mopar Door Ease no. 3744859 or equivalent .
4.5 quarts
5.0 quarts
16 gallons
9.1 quarts
4.0 quarts
2.2 quarts
8.5 quarts
9.0 quarts
10.5 quarts
1/8 inch
1/16 inch
Champion RCY9C or equivalent
Champion RC12YC5 or equivalent
Champion RC10PYP4 or equivalent
0.033 to 0.038 inch
0.048 to 0.053 inch
0.038 to 0.043 inch
3,500 to 4,900 ohms
2,950 to 4,100 ohms
250 ohms per inch (3,000 ohms per foot)
560 ohms per inch (6,700 ohms per foot)
1-3-4-2
1-2-3-4-5-6
0000
125015-1-SPECS. HAYNES'
FRONT
OF
VEHICLE
1,
4
V6 engine cylinder
numbering and
distributor cap
terminal locations
Four-cylinder engine cylinder numbering and
FRONT
FIRING ORDER
1-2-3-4-5-6
coil terminal locations
01
OF
VEHICLE
Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance
1-3
Torque specifications
Automatic transaxle oil pan bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Engine oil pan drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Manual transaxle drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Spark plugs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..
Wheel lug nuts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)
165 in-lbs
25
22
20
80 to 110
1
Typical engine compartment layout (V6 engine shown)
1
Power steering fluid reservoir
8
Upper radiator hose
2
Brake fluid reservoir
9
Engine coolant pressure/filler cap
3
Transmission fluid dipstick
10
Spark plug boot
4
Battery negative remote terminal
11
Engine oil filler cap
5
Air filter housing
12
Engine oil dipstick
6
Battery positive remote terminal
13
Windshield washer reservoir
7
Power Distribution Center (PDC) - fuses and relays
14
Engine coolant reservoir
1-4
Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance
Typical engine
compartment
underside
components (V6
engine shown)
1
Air conditioning
compressor
2
Engine oil drain
plug
3
Engine oil filter
4
Exhaust
crossover pipe
5
Starter motor
6
Automatic
transaxle fluid pan
7
Driveaxle inner
CV joint boot
8
Front suspension
crossmember
9
Battery location
(inside fenderwell)
10
Driveaxle outer
CV joint boot
11
Front brake
caliper
12
Front stabilizer
bar
13
Catalytic
converter
14
Shock absorber
lower mount
15
Front suspension
lower control arm
Typical rear
underside
components
1
Rear suspension
upper control arm
2
Rear stabilizer bar
3
Lateral links
4
Fuel tank drain
plug
5
Fuel tank
retaining straps
6
Rear suspension
crossmember
7
Muffler
8
Coil/shock
absorber
assembly
9
Trailing arm
Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance
1-5
1
Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus, and
Plymouth Breeze maintenance schedule
The following maintenance intervals are based on the assumption
that the vehicle owner will be doing the maintenance or service work,
as opposed to having a dealer service department do the work.
Although the time/mileage intervals are loosely based on factory rec-
ommendations, most have been shortened to ensure, for example, that
such items as lubricants and fluids are checked/changed at intervals
that promote maximum engine/driveline service life. Also, subject to
the preference of the individual owner interested in keeping his or her
vehicle in peak condition at all times, and with the vehicle's ultimate
resale in mind, many of the maintenance procedures may be per-
formed more often than recommended in the following schedule. We
encourage such owner initiative.
When the vehicle is new it should be serviced initially by a factory
authorized dealer service department to protect the factory warranty.
In many cases the initial maintenance check is done at no cost to the
owner (check with your dealer service department for more informa-
tion).
Every 250 miles or weekly, whichever comes first
Check the engine oil level; add oil as necessary (see Section 4)
Check the engine coolant level; add coolant as necessary
(see Section 4)
Check the windshield washer fluid level (see Section 4)
Check the brake fluid level (see Section 4)
Check the tires and tire pressures (see Section 5)
Check the automatic transaxle fluid level (see Section 6)
Check the power steering fluid level (see Section 7)
Check the operation of all lights
Check the horn operation
Every 7500 miles or 6 months,
whichever comes first
Change the engine oil and filter (see Section 8)*
Check and clean the battery and terminals (see Section 9)
Check the manual transaxle fluid level (see Section 16)
Check the cooling system hoses and connections for leaks
and damage (see Section 10)
Check the condition of all vacuum hoses and connections
(see Section 11)
Check the wiper blade condition (see Section 12)
Rotate the tires (see Section 13)
Check for free play in the steering linkage and ball joints
(see Section 14)
Check the CV joints and front suspension components
(see Section 14)
Check the driveaxle boots (see Section 17)
Check the exhaust pipes and hangers (see Section 15)
Inspect brake hoses (see Section 11)
Every 15,000 miles or 12 months,
whichever comes first
All
items listed above, plus:
Check the brake system (see Section 18)
Check the fuel system hoses and connections for leaks and
damage (see Section 19)
Check the drivebelts and adjust if necessary (see Section 20)
Every 30,000 miles or 24 months,
whichever comes first
All
items listed above, plus:
Lubricate the front and rear suspension and steering ball joints
(see Section 21)*
Replace the air filter element (see Section 22)*
Change the automatic transaxle fluid and filter
(see Section 23)*
Change the manual transaxle lubricant (see Section 24)*
Check the fuel evaporative emission system hoses
(see Section 26)
Replace the spark plugs (four-cylinder engines)
(see Section 27)
Check the spark plug wires (see Section 29)
Drain and replace the engine coolant (see Section 25)
Every 60,000 miles or 48 months,
whichever comes first
All
items listed above, plus:
Check and replace, if necessary, the PCV valve
(see Section 28)*
Replace drivebelts (see Section 20)
Replace spark plug wires (four-cylinder engines)
(see Section 29)
Every 100,000 miles or 84 months,
whichever comes first
Replace the spark plugs (V6 engine) (see Section 27)*
Replace the spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor
(V6 engine) (see Section 29)*
Replace the timing belt (see Chapter 2)
*This item is affected by "severe" operating conditions as
described below. If the vehicle in question is operated under
"severe" conditions, perform all maintenance procedures marked
with an asterisk (*) at the intervals specified by the mileage
headings
below.
Consider the conditions "severe" if most driving is done .. .
In dusty areas
Towing a trailer
Idling for extended periods and/or low-speed operation
When outside temperatures remain below freezing and most
trips are less than four miles
In heavy city traffic where outside temperatures regularly reach
90-degrees F or higher
1
1-6
Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance
Maintenance schedule (continued)
Every 3000 miles
Change the engine oil and filter (see Section 8)
Every 15,000 miles
Check and replace, if necessary, the air filter element (see
Section 22)
Change the automatic transaxle fluid and filter (see Section 23)
Change the manual transaxle lubricant (see Section 24)
Lubricate the front and rear suspension and steering ball joints
(see Section 21)
Every 30,000 miles
Check and replace, if necessary, the PCV valve (see
Section 28)
Every 75,000 miles
Replace the spark plugs (V6 engine) (see Section 27)
Replace the spark plug wires (V6 engine) (see Section 29)
2
Introduction
This Chapter is designed to help the
home mechanic maintain the Chrysler Cirrus,
Dodge Stratus and Plymouth Breeze models
with the goals of maximum performance,
economy, safety and reliability in mind.
Included is a master maintenance
schedule, followed by procedures dealing
specifically with each item on the schedule.
Visual checks, adjustments, component
replacement and other helpful items are
included. Refer to the accompanying illustra-
tions of the engine compartment and the
underside of the vehicle for the locations of
various components.
Adhering to the mileage/time mainte-
nance schedule and following the step-by-
step procedures, which is simply a preventive
maintenance program, will result in maximum
reliability and vehicle service life. Keep in
mind that it's a comprehensive program -
maintaining some items but not others at the
specified intervals will not produce the same
results.
As you service the vehicle, you'll dis-
cover that many of the procedures can - and
should - be grouped together because of the
nature of the particular procedure you're per-
forming or because of the close proximity of
two otherwise unrelated components to one
another.
For example, if the vehicle is raised, you
should inspect the exhaust, suspension,
steering and fuel systems while you're under
the vehicle. When you're rotating the tires, it
makes good sense to check the brakes,
since the wheels are already removed.
Finally, let's suppose you have to borrow or
rent a torque wrench. Even if you only need it
to tighten the spark plugs, you might as well
check the torque of as many critical fasteners
as time allows.
The first step in this maintenance pro-
gram is to prepare yourself before the actual
work begins. Read through all the procedures
you're planning to do, then gather up all the
parts and tools needed. If it looks like you
might run into problems during a particular
job, seek advice from a mechanic or an expe-
rienced do-it-yourselfer.
3
Tune-up general information
The term "tune-up" is used in this man-
ual to represent a combination of individual
operations rather than one specific proce-
dure.
If, from the time the vehicle is new, the
routine maintenance schedule is followed
closely and frequent checks are made of fluid
levels and high wear items, as suggested
throughout this manual, the engine will be
kept in relatively good running condition and
the need for additional work will be mini-
mized.
More likely than not, however, there will
be times when the engine is running poorly
due to lack of regular maintenance. This is
even more likely if a used vehicle, which has-
n't received regular and frequent mainte-
nance checks, is purchased. In such cases,
an engine tune-up will be needed outside of
the regular routine maintenance intervals.
The first step in any tune-up or diagnos-
tic procedure to help correct a poor running
engine is a cylinder compression check. A
compression check (see Chapter 2, Part C)
will help determine the condition of internal
engine components and should be used as a
guide for tune-up and repair procedures. For
instance, if a compression check indicates
serious internal engine wear, a conventional
tune-up will not improve the performance of
the engine and would be a waste of time and
money. Because of its importance, the com-
pression check should be done by someone
with the right equipment and the knowledge
to use it properly.
The following procedures are those
most often needed to bring a generally poor
running engine back into a proper state of
tune:
Minor tune-up
Check all engine related fluids
(see Section 4)
Clean, inspect and test the battery
(see Section 9)
Replace the spark plugs (see
Section 27)
Inspect the spark plug wires (see
Section 29)
Check and adjust the drivebelts (see
Section 20)
Check the air filter (see Section 22)
Check the PCV valve (see Section 28)
Check all underhood hoses (see
Section 11)
Service the cooling system (see
Section 25)
Major tune-up
All items listed under Minor tune-up plus .. .
Replace the air filter (see Section 22)
Check the fuel system (see Section 19)
Check the charging system (see
Chapter 5)
4
Fluid level checks (every 250
miles or weekly)
Note: The following are fluid level checks to
be done on a 250 mile or weekly basis. Addi-
tional fluid level checks can be found in spe-
cific maintenance procedures which follow.
Regardless of the intervals, develop the habit
of checking under the vehicle periodically for
evidence of fluid leaks.
1
Fluids are an essential part of the lubri-
cation, cooling, brake and window washer
systems. Because the fluids gradually
become depleted and/or contaminated dur-
ing normal operation of the vehicle, they must
be replenished periodically. See Recom-
mended lubricants and fluids at the beginning
of this Chapter before adding fluid to any of
the following components. Note: The vehicle
must be on level ground when fluid levels are
checked.
Engine oil
Refer to illustrations 4.2a, 4.2b, 4.4 and 4.5
2
The engine oil level is checked with a
Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance
1-7
4.2b Engine oil dipstick location -
V6 engine
4.5 Turn the oil filler cap
counterclockwise to remove it
(four-cylinder engine shown)
Engine coolant
Refer to illustrations 4.9
and
4.10
Warning: Do not allow coolant (antifreeze) to
come in contact with your
skin
or painted sur-
faces
of
the vehicle.
Flush contaminated
areas immediately with plenty
of
water.
Don't
store new coolant or leave old coolant lying
around
where it's accessible to children or
pets - they're attracted by its sweet smell.
Ingestion of
even a small amount
of
coolant
can be fatal! Wipe up garage floor
and
drip
pan spills immediately. Keep antifreeze con-
tainers covered
and
repair cooling system
leaks as soon as they are
noticed. Check
with
local authorities about the disposal
of
used
antifreeze.
Many
communities have collection
centers
which
will see that antifreeze is dis-
posed
of
properly.
8
All vehicles covered by this manual are
equipped with a pressurized coolant recovery
system. A coolant reservoir (expansion tank)
is attached to the engine compartment fire-
wall on the right (passenger's) side is con-
nected by a hose to the engine coolant sys-
tem filler neck. As the engine warms up, the
system pressure increases causing some
4.4 The oil level should be between the
notches on the dipstick - if it isn't, add
enough oil to bring the level up to or near
the upper notch (do not overfill)
1
4.9 With the engine COLD, remove the
engine coolant pressure cap - the coolant
level should be up to the pressure cap
seat inside the filler neck
coolant to escape through a valve in the radi-
ator cap and travel through the hose and into
the coolant reservoir. As the engine cools, the
coolant in the reservoir is automatically
drawn back into the cooling system via the
vacuum created by the contracting coolant.
This recovery type system maintains the
maximum amount of coolant available at all
ti mes.
9
Warning: Never remove the pressure
cap on the filler
neck
to add coolant while the
engine is warm!
If
the cap feels even slightly
warm, wrap a towel or rag
around
the
cap
and
open it very slowly. With the engine cold,
remove the coolant system filler cap (see
illustration). The coolant level should be up
to the pressure cap seat inside the filler neck.
If it is low, add a mixture of high-quality
antifreeze/coolant and water in the ratio
specified on the antifreeze container or in this
Chapter's Specification Section to bring it up
to the correct level.
10
The coolant level in the recovery tank
should be checked while the engine is at nor-
mal operating temperature. Simply note the
fluid level in the reservoir - it should be at or
4.2a The engine oil dipstick is located at
the front left (passenger's) side of the
engine (four-cylinder engine shown)
dipstick which is located on the side of the
engine facing the front of the vehicle (see
illustrations). The dipstick extends through a
tube and into the oil pan at the bottom of the
engine.
3
The oil level should be checked before
the vehicle has been driven, or about 15 min-
utes after the engine has been shut off. If the
oil is checked immediately after driving the
vehicle, some of the oil will remain in the
upper engine components, resulting in an
inaccurate reading on the dipstick.
4
Pull the dipstick out of the tube and
wipe all the oil off the end with a clean rag or
paper towel. Insert the clean dipstick all the
way back into the tube, then pull it out again.
Note the oil level at the end of the dipstick.
Add oil as necessary to bring the oil level to
the second notch in the dipstick (see illus-
tration).
5
Oil is added to the engine after removing
a cap located on the valve cover (see illus-
tration). The cap will be marked "Engine oil".
Use a funnel to reduce spills as the oil is
added.
6
Don't allow the level to drop below the
lower notch on the dipstick or engine dam-
age may occur. On the other hand, don't
overfill the engine by adding too much oil - it
may result in oil aeration and loss of oil pres-
sure and also could result in oil fouled spark
plugs, oil leaks or seal failures.
7
Checking the oil level is an important
preventive maintenance step. A consistently
low oil level indicates oil leakage through
damaged seals, defective gaskets or past
worn rings or valve guides. If the oil looks
milky in color or has water droplets in it, the
block or head may be cracked and leaking
coolant is entering the crankcase. The engine
should be checked immediately. The condi-
tion of the oil should also be checked. Each
ti me you check the oil level, slide your thumb
and index finger up the dipstick before wiping
off the oil. If you see small dirt or metal parti-
cles clinging to the dipstick, the oil should be
changed (see Section 8).
1-8
Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine
maintenance
4.17 The brake fluid level, indicated on
the translucent white plastic brake fluid
reservoir, should be kept at the FULL
mark (arrow)
4.10 Engine coolant (1) and windshield
washer (2) reservoirs
close to the FULL HOT mark when the engine
is at normal operating temperature (see illus-
tration).
11
If only a small amount of coolant is
required to bring the system up to the proper
level, ordinary tap water may be used. How-
ever, to maintain the proper antifreeze/water
mixture in the system, a blend of high-quality
antifreeze/coolant and water in the ratio
specified on the antifreeze container or in this
Chapter's Specification Section should be
added.
12
As the coolant level is checked, note the
condition of the coolant as well. It should be
relatively clean and the color of new
antifreeze. If it's brown or rust colored, the
system should be drained, flushed and
refilled (see Section 25).
13 If the coolant level drops consistently,
there is a leak in the system. Check the radia-
tor, hoses, filler cap, drain plugs and water
pump (see Section 25). If no leaks are noted,
have the filler cap and coolant system pres-
sure tested by your dealer service depart-
ment or other qualified service station.
Windshield washer fluid
14
The fluid for the windshield washer sys-
tem is stored in a plastic reservoir. The reser-
voir level should be maintained about one
inch below the filler cap. The reservoir is
accessible after opening the hood and is
located on the right (passenger's) side of the
engine compartment next to the coolant
recovery tank (see illustration 4.10).
15 In milder climates, plain water can be
used in the reservoir, but it should be kept no
more than two-thirds full to allow for expan-
sion if the water freezes. In colder climates,
use windshield washer system antifreeze,
available at any auto parts store, to lower the
freezing point of the fluid. Mix the antifreeze
with water in accordance with the manufac-
turer's directions on the container. Caution:
DO NOT use cooling system antifreeze - it will
damage the vehicle's paint. To help prevent
icing in cold weather, warm the windshield
with the defroster before using the washer.
Brake fluid
Refer to illustration 4.17
16
The brake fluid reservoir is located on
top of the brake master cylinder on the
driver's side of the engine compartment near
the firewall.
17
The brake fluid level should be main-
tained at the FULL mark on the reservoir (see
illustration).
18 If additional fluid is necessary to bring
the level up, use a rag to clean all dirt off the
top of the reservoir. If any foreign matter
enters the reservoir when the cap is removed,
blockage in the brake system lines can occur.
Also, make sure all painted surfaces around
the master cylinder are covered, since brake
fluid will ruin paint. Carefully pour new, clean
brake fluid obtained from a sealed container
into the master cylinder. Be careful not to
spill the fluid on painted surfaces. Be sure the
specified fluid is used; mixing different types
of brake fluid can cause damage to the sys-
tem. See Recommended lubricants and fluids
at the beginning of this Chapter or your
owner's manual.
19
At this time the fluid and the master
cylinder should be inspected for contamina-
tion. Normally the brake hydraulic system
won't need periodic draining and refilling, but
if rust deposits, dirt particles or water
droplets are observed in the fluid, the system
should be dismantled, cleaned and refilled
with fresh fluid. Over time brake fluid will
absorb moisture from the air. The moisture in
the fluid then produces rust in the system
and lowers the fluid boiling point increasing
the possibility of premature brake failure.
Normal brake fluid is clear in color. If the
brake fluid is dark brown in color or is over
three years old, its a good idea to flush the
system and refill it with new fluid.
20
Reinstall the brake fluid reservoir cap.
21
The brake fluid in the master cylinder
will drop slightly as the brake shoes and pads
at each wheel wear down during normal
operation. If the master cylinder requires
5.2 Use a tire tread depth indicator to
monitor tire wear - they are available at
auto parts stores or service stations and
are relatively inexpensive
repeated replenishing to maintain the correct
level, there is a leak in the brake system
which should be corrected immediately.
Check all brake lines and connections, along
with the wheel cylinders and vacuum booster
(see Section 18 and Chapter 9 for more infor-
mation).
22 If you discover that the reservoir is
empty or nearly empty, the brake system
should be thoroughly inspected, refilled and
then bled (see Chapter 9).
5
Tire and tire pressure checks
(every 250 miles or weekly)
Refer to illustrations 5.2, 5.3, 5.4a, 5.4b and
5.8
1
Periodic inspection of the tires may
spare you the inconvenience of being
stranded with a flat tire. It can also provide
you with vital information regarding possible
problems in the steering and suspension sys-
tems before major damage occurs.
2
The original tires on this vehicle are
equipped with 1/2-inch wide bands that will
appear when tread depth reaches 1/16-inch,
but they don't appear until the tires are worn
out. Tread wear can be monitored with a sim-
ple, inexpensive device known as a tread
depth indicator (see illustration).
3
Note any abnormal tread wear (see
illustration). Tread pattern irregularities such
as cupping, flat spots and more wear on one
side than the other are indications of front
end alignment and/or balance problems. If
any of these conditions are noted, take the
vehicle to a tire shop or service station to cor-
rect the problem.
4
Look closely for cuts, punctures and
embedded nails or tacks. Sometimes a tire
will hold air pressure for a short time or leak
down very slowly after a nail has embedded
itself in the tread. If a slow leak persists,
check the valve stem core to make sure it's
tight (see illustration). Examine the tread for
UNDERINFLATION
Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance
1-9
CUPPING
Cupping may be caused by:
• Underinflation and/or mechanical
irregularities such as out-of-balance
condition of wheel and/or tire,
and bent or damaged wheel.
Loose or worn steering tie-rod
or steering idler arm.
*Loose, damaged or worn front
suspension parts,
INCORRECT TOE-1N
OR EXTREME CAMBER
OVERINFLATION
FEATHERING DUE
TO MISALIGNMENT
5.3 This chart will help you determine the condition of the tires, the probable cause(s) of
abnormal wear and the corrective action necessary
5.4a If a tire loses air on a steady basis,
check the valve core first to make sure it's
snug (special inexpensive wrenches are
commonly available at auto parts stores)
1
an object that may have embedded itself in
the tire or for a "plug" that may have begun to
leak (radial tire punctures are repaired with a
plug that's installed in a puncture). If a punc-
ture is suspected, it can be easily verified by
spraying a solution of soapy water onto the
puncture area (see illustration). The soapy
solution will bubble if there's a leak. Unless
the puncture is unusually large, a tire shop or
service station can usually repair the tire.
5
Carefully inspect the inner sidewall of
each tire for evidence of brake fluid leakage.
If you see any, inspect the brakes immedi-
ately.
6
Correct air pressure adds miles to the
life span of the tires, improves mileage and
enhances overall ride quality. Tire pressure
cannot be accurately estimated by looking at
a tire, especially if it's a radial. A tire pressure
gauge is essential. Keep an accurate gauge
in the vehicle. The pressure gauges attached
to the nozzles of air hoses at gas stations are
often inaccurate.
7
Always check tire pressure when the
tires are cold. Cold, in this case, means the
vehicle has not been driven over a mile in the
three hours preceding a tire pressure check.
A pressure rise of four to eight pounds is not
uncommon once the tires are warm.
8
Unscrew the valve cap protruding from
the wheel or hubcap and push the gauge
firmly onto the valve stem (see illustration).
Compare the reading on the gauge to the
recommended tire pressure shown on the
placard on the driver's side door pillar. Be
sure to reinstall the valve cap to keep dirt and
moisture out of the valve stem mechanism.
Check all four tires and, if necessary, add
enough air to bring them up to the recom-
mended pressure.
9
Don't forget to keep the spare tire
inflated to the specified pressure (refer to
your owner's manual or the tire sidewall).
Note that the pressure recommended for the
compact spare is higher than for the tires on
the vehicle.
Automatic transaxle - fluid level
check (every 250 miles or weekly)
Refer to illustration 6.4
1
The fluid inside the transaxle should be
at normal operating temperature to get an
accurate reading on the dipstick. This is done
by driving the vehicle for several miles, mak-
ing frequent starts and stops to allow the
5.4b If the valve core is tight, raise the
corner of the vehicle with the low tire and
spray a soapy water solution onto the
tread as the tire is turned slowly - leaks
will cause small bubbles to appear
5.8 To extend the life of the tires, check
the air pressure at least once a week with
an accurate gauge (don't forget
the spare!)
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