Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus, Plymouth Breeze Haynes. Manual — part 16

2C-26

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

25.21 On four-cylinder

engines, apply a 1/16-inch

bead of anaerobic sealer

( Mopar Torque Cure Gasket

Maker, or equivalent) to the

engine block as shown

the Plastigage envelope to determine the
main bearing oil clearance (see illustration).
Check the tolerance listed in this Chapter's
Specifications to make sure it's acceptable.
16 If the clearance is not as specified, the
bearing inserts may be the wrong size (which
means different ones will be required). Before
deciding if different inserts are needed, make
sure that no dirt or oil was between the bear-
ing inserts and the cap assembly or block
when the clearance was measured. If the
Plastigage was wider at one end than the
other, the crankshaft journal may be tapered
(refer to Section 21). If the clearance still
exceeds the limit specified, the bearing
insert(s) will have to be replaced with an
undersize bearing insert(s). Caution: When

installing a new crankshaft always install a
standard bearing insert set.

17

Carefully scrape all traces of the Plasti-

gage material off the main bearing journals
and/or the bearing insert faces. Be sure to
remove all residue from the oil holes. Use

your fingernail or the edge of a plastic card -

don't nick or scratch the bearing faces.

Final installation

Refer to illustration 25.21

18

Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the

cylinder block.

19

Clean the bearing insert faces in the

cylinder block, then apply a thin, uniform

layer of moly-base grease or engine assem-

bly lube to each of the bearing surfaces. Be
sure to coat the thrust faces as well as the
journal face of the thrust bearing. Caution:
Be sure to install the thrust bearing inserts or
thrust washers (V6 engine) in the No. 3 journal
(see illustrations 25.5a, 25.5b and 25.5c).
20

On 2.0L four-cylinder engines, install a

new oil filter passage 0-ring seal and make
sure the three locating dowels are in place on
the cylinder block. The dowels are necessary
for proper alignment of the main bearing cap
assembly to the cylinder block and
crankshaft.
21

On four-cylinder engines, clean the main

bearing cap assembly-to-cylinder block mat-
ing surfaces. They must be free of any oil
residue. Apply a 1/16-inch bead of anaerobic
sealer (Mopar Torque Cure Gasket Maker, or
equivalent) to the cylinder block as shown
(see illustration). Caution: Use ONLY anaer-
obic sealant meeting the manufacturers spec-

ifications or engine damage may occur.

22

Make sure the crankshaft journals are

clean, then lay the crankshaft back in place in
the cylinder block.
23

Clean the bearing insert faces in the

main bearing cap assembly, then apply the
same lubricant to them. Caution: On four-
cylinder engines, DO NOT get any lubricant

on the main bearing cap assembly-to-cylinder
block mating surfaces as it will inhibit the
sealing ability of the anaerobic sealant.

24

Hold the bearing inserts in place and

install the main bearing cap assembly onto

the crankshaft and cylinder block. On four-

cylinder engines, push the assembly down

until it contacts the locating dowels.
25

Prior to installation, apply clean engine

oil to all bolt threads wiping off any excess,
then install all bolts finger-tight. On 2.0L four-
cylinder engines, install baffle studs in posi-
tions 12, 13 and 16 (see illustration 25.13a).
26

On 2.0L four-cylinder engines, tighten

the main bearing cap assembly as follows
(see illustration 25.13a):

a) Tighten bolts 11, 17 and 20 until the

assembly contacts the engine block.

b) Tighten bolts 1 through 10 in the

sequence shown, in 3 steps to the

torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica-
tions.

c) Tighten bolts 11 through 20 in the

sequence shown to the torque listed in

this Chapter's Specifications.

27

On 2.4L four-cylinder engines, tighten

the main bearing cap assembly as follows

(see illustration 25.13b):

a) Tighten bolts 11, 17 and 20 until the

assembly contacts the engine block.

b) To ensure correct thrust bearing align-

ment, rotate the crankshaft until the No.
4 piston is at TDC.

c) Carefully pry the crankshaft all the way

towards the rear of the block and then
towards the front of the block.

d) Wedge an appropriate tool such as a

block of wood, between the engine
block and the crankshaft counterweight
to hold the crankshaft in the most for-
ward position. DO NOT drive the wedge
between the main bearing cap assembly
and the crankshaft.

e) Tighten bolts 1 through 10 in the

sequence shown, in 3 steps to the
torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica-
tions - except DO NOT tighten the bolts
the additional 1/4-turn.
Remove the wedge and tighten bolts 1
through 10 in the sequence shown, the
additional 1/4-turn.
Tighten bolts 11 through 20 in the
sequence shown to the torque listed in
this Chapter's Specifications.

28

On V6 engines, tighten the main bearing

cap assembly bolts in the sequence shown
(see illustration 25.13c) progressing in three
steps, to the torque listed in this Chapter's
Specifications.
29

After tightening the main bearing cap

assembly, tap the ends of the crankshaft for-
ward and backward with a lead or brass
hammer to seat the main bearing and
crankshaft thrust surfaces.
30

Rotate the crankshaft a number of times

by hand to check for any obvious binding. It
should rotate with a running torque of 50 in-
lbs or less. If the running torque is too high,
correct the problem at this time.
31

Recheck the crankshaft endplay with a

feeler gauge or a dial indicator as described
in Section 16. The endplay should be correct
if the crankshaft thrust faces aren't worn or
damaged and new bearings have been
installed.
32

Refer to the appropriate Part of Chap-

ter 2 and install the new rear main oil seal.

26 Pistons and connecting rods -

installation and rod bearing oil
clearance check

1

Before installing the piston/connecting

rod assemblies, the cylinder walls must be
perfectly clean, the top edge of each cylinder
bore must be chamfered, and the crankshaft
must be in place.

2

Remove the cap from the end of the

number one connecting rod (refer to the
marks made during removal). Remove the
original bearing inserts and wipe the bearing

surfaces of the connecting rod and cap with
a clean, lint-free cloth. They must be kept
spotlessly clean.

Connecting rod bearing oil
clearance check

Refer to illustrations 26.6, 26.11, 26.13 and
26.14 and 26.17
3

Clean the back side of the new upper

bearing insert, then lay it in place in the con-
necting rod. Make sure the tab on the bearing
fits into the recess in the rod. Don't hammer
the bearing insert into place and be very
careful not to nick or gouge the bearing face.
Don't lubricate the bearing at this time.
4

Clean the back side of the other bearing

insert and install it in the rod cap. Again,
make sure the tab on the bearing fits into the
recess in the cap, and don't apply any lubri-
cant. It's critically important that the mating
surfaces of the bearing and connecting rod

f)

g)

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

2C-27

26.11 Use a plastic or wooden hammer

handle to push the piston into the cylinder

26.13 Place Plastigage on each

connecting rod bearing journal parallel to

the crankshaft centerline

26.14 Install the connecting rod cap

making sure the cap and rod identification

numbers match

2C

FRONT OF ENGINE

26.6 Position the piston ring end gaps

as shown

are perfectly clean and oil free when they're
assembled.
5

On V6 engines, slip a short section of

plastic or rubber hose over the connecting
rod studs to avoid damaging the cylinder wall

or crankshaft journal (see illustration 14.6).
6

Position the piston ring gaps at 90-

degree intervals around the piston as shown

(see illustration).
7

Lubricate the piston and rings with clean

engine oil and attach a piston ring compres-
sor to the piston. Leave the skirt protruding
about 1/4-inch to guide the piston into the
cylinder. The rings must be compressed until
they're flush with the piston.
8

Rotate the crankshaft until the number

one connecting rod journal is at BDC (bottom
dead center) and apply a liberal coat of
engine oil to the cylinder walls.
9

With the weight designation mark, or

arrow, on top of the piston facing the front
(ti ming belt end) of the engine, gently insert
the piston/connecting rod assembly into the
number one cylinder bore and rest the bot-
tom edge of the ring compressor on the
engine block. Note: The connecting rod also
has a mark on it that must face the front (tim-
ing belt end) of the engine if it faces the
opposite direction, the piston and connecting
rod have been assembled improperly.
10

Tap the top edge of the ring compressor

to make sure it's contacting the block around
its entire circumference.
11

Gently tap on the top of the piston with

the end of a wooden or plastic hammer han-
dle (see illustration) while guiding the end of
the connecting rod into place on the
crankshaft journal. The piston rings may try to

pop out of the ring compressor just before

entering the cylinder bore, so keep some
downward pressure on the ring compressor.
Work slowly, and if any resistance is felt as
the piston enters the cylinder, stop immedi-
ately. Find out what's hanging up and fix it

before proceeding. Do not, for any reason,

'force the piston into the cylinder - you might

break a ring and/or the piston.

12

Once the piston/connecting rod assem-

bly is installed, the connecting rod bearing oil

clearance must be checked before the rod
cap is permanently installed.
13

Cut a piece of the appropriate size Plas-

tigage slightly shorter than the width of the
connecting rod bearing and lay it in place on
the number one connecting rod journal, par-
allel with the journal axis (see illustration).
14

Clean the connecting rod cap bearing

face and install the rod cap. Make sure the
mating mark on the cap is on the same side
as the mark on the connecting rod (see illus-
tration). Note: Check to make sure the iden-
tification mark on the connecting rod faces
toward the front (timing belt) end of the
engine.
15 Install the old rod bolts or nuts, at this
ti me, and tighten them to the torque listed in

this Chapter's Specifications, working up to it

in three steps. Note: Use a thin-wall socket to

avoid erroneous torque readings that can
result if the socket is wedged between the
rod cap and the bolt or nut. If the socket

tends to wedge itself between the fastener

and the cap, lift up on it slightly until it no
longer contacts the cap. DO NOT rotate the
crankshaft at any time during this operation.

16

Remove the fasteners and detach the

rod cap, being very careful not to disturb the
Plastigage. Discard the cap bolts at this time

26.17 Use the scale on the Plastigage

package to determine the bearing oil

clearance - be sure to measure the widest

part of the Plastigage and use the correct

scale; it comes with both standard and

metric scales

as they cannot be reused. Note: On four-
cylinder engines, new connecting rod bolts
must be installed.

17

Compare the width of the crushed Plas-

tigage to the scale printed on the Plastigage
envelope to obtain the oil clearance (see
illustration). Compare it to the tolerance
listed in this Chapter's Specifications to
make sure the clearance is acceptable.

18 If the clearance is not as specified, the

bearing inserts may be the wrong size (which
means different ones will be required). Before
deciding that different inserts are needed,
make sure that no dirt or oil was between the
bearing inserts and the connecting rod or cap
when the clearance was measured. Also,
recheck the journal diameter. If the Plasti-
gage was wider at one end than the other,
the journal may be tapered (refer to Sec-
tion 21). If the clearance still exceeds the limit
specified, the bearing will have to be
replaced with an undersize bearing. Caution:
When installing a new crankshaft always use a
standard size bearing.

NO. 2

RING

GAP AND

SPACER

EXPANDER

GAP

2C-28

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

Final installation

19

Carefully scrape all traces of the Plasti-

gage material off the rod journal and/or bear-
ing face. Be very careful not to scratch the
bearing - use your fingernail or the edge of a
plastic card.
20

Make sure the bearing faces are per-

fectly clean, then apply a uniform layer of
clean moly-base grease or engine assembly
lube to both of them. You'll have to push the
piston into the cylinder to expose the face of

the bearing insert in the connecting rod.

21

Caution: On four-cylinder engines, new

connecting rod cap bolts must be installed at

this time. DO NOT reuse the old bolts as they

have stretched and cannot be reused. Slide
the connecting rod back into place on the
journal, install the rod cap, install new bolts
and tighten the bolts to the torque listed in
this Chapter's Specifications. Again, work up
to the torque in three steps.
22

Repeat the entire procedure for the

remaining pistons/connecting rods.
23

The important points to remember are:

a) Keep the back sides of the bearing

inserts and the insides of the connecting
rods and caps perfectly clean when
assembling them.

b) Make sure you have the correct

piston/rod assembly for each cylinder.

c) The mark on the piston must face the

front (timing belt end) of the engine.

d) Lubricate the cylinder walls liberally with

clean oil.

e) Lubricate the bearing faces when

installing the rod caps after the oil clear-
ance has been checked.

24

After all the piston/connecting rod

assemblies have been properly installed,
rotate the crankshaft a number of times by
hand to check for any obvious binding.

25

As a final step, the connecting rod end-

play must be checked. Refer to Section 14

for this procedure.
26

Compare the measured endplay to the

tolerance listed in this Chapter's Specifica-
tions to make sure it's acceptable. If it was
correct before disassembly and the original
crankshaft and rods were reinstalled, it
should still be correct. If new rods or a new
crankshaft were installed, the endplay may

be inadequate. If so, the rods will have to be

removed and taken to an automotive
machine shop for resizing.

27 Initial start-up and break-in after

overhaul

Warning: Have a fire extinguisher handy
when starting the engine for the first time.
1

Once the engine has been installed in

the vehicle, double-check the engine oil and
coolant levels. Add transaxle fluid as needed.
2

With the spark plugs out of the engine

and the ignition system disabled (disconnect
the primary [low voltage] electrical connector
from the coil pack or distributor see Chap-
ter 5), crank the engine until the oil pressure
li ght goes out. Caution: Do not crank the

engine for more than 15 seconds at a time, as
starter motor could over-heat and damage

could occur.
3

Install the spark plugs, hook up the plug

wires and restore the ignition system func-
tions.
4

Start the engine. It may take a few

moments for the fuel system to build up pres-
sure, but the engine should start without a
great deal of effort. Note: If backfiring occurs
through the throttle body, recheck the valve
timing and spark plug wire locations.
5

After the engine starts, it should be

allowed to warm up to normal operating tem-
perature. Try to keep the engine speed at
approximately 2000 rpm. While the engine is
warming up, make a thorough check for fuel,
oil and coolant leaks. Check the automatic
transaxle fluid level (if so equipped).
6

Shut the engine off and recheck the

engine oil and coolant levels.
7

Drive the vehicle to an area with mini-

mum traffic, accelerate from 30 to 50 mph,

then allow the vehicle to slow to 30 mph with
the throttle closed. Repeat the procedure 10

or 12 times. This will load the piston rings and

cause them to seat properly against the cylin-
der walls. Check again for oil and coolant

leaks.

8

Drive the vehicle gently for the first 500

miles (no sustained high speeds) and keep a

constant check on the oil level. It is not

unusual for an engine to use oil during the
break-in period.

9

At approximately 500 to 600 miles,

change the oil and filter.

10

For the next few hundred miles, drive

the vehicle normally. Do not pamper it or
abuse it.

11

After 2000 miles, change the oil and fil-

ter again and consider the engine broken in.

3-1

Chapter 3

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

Contents

Section

Section

Air conditioning compressor - removal and installation . . . . .

13

Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement. . . . . See Chapter 1

Air conditioning condenser - removal and installation . . . . ...

15

Engine cooling fans and circuit - check and replacement . . . .

4

Air conditioning evaporator and expansion valve -

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

removal and installation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

16

Blower motor and circuit - check and replacement . . . . . ...

9

Air conditioning receiver-drier - removal and installation . . . ..

14

Heater core - replacement. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

Air conditioning and heating system - check

and maintenance. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

12

Heater/air conditioner control assembly - removal, check

and installation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

11

Antifreeze - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

Radiator and coolant reservoir - removal

and installation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

5

Coolant level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...See Chapter 1
Coolant temperature sending unit - check

Thermostat - check and replacement . . . . . . . . . . .

3

and replacement. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...8

Cooling system check. . . . . . . . . . . . . ...See Chapter 1
Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing

and refilling). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Underhood hose check and replacement . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Water pump - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 6
Water pump - replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Specifications

General

Radiator cap pressure rating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 to 18 psi

Thermostat rating (opening temperature) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195 degrees F

Cooling system capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..See Chapter 1
Refrigerant capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 ounces

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Torque specifications

Thermostat housing bolts/nuts

Four-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 in-lbs

V6 engine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 in-lbs

Water pump mounting bolts

Four-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 in-lbs

V6 engine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

3

1

General information

Engine cooling system

All vehicles covered by this manual

employ a pressurized engine cooling system
with thermostatically controlled coolant circu-

lation. An impeller-type water pump mounted

on the front of the engine pumps coolant
through the engine. The pump mounts
directly on the engine block. The coolant
flows around the combustion chambers and
toward the rear of the engine. Cast-in coolant

passages direct coolant near the intake ports,

exhaust ports, and spark plug areas.

A wax pellet-type thermostat is located

in a housing near the front of the engine. Dur-
ing warm-up, the closed thermostat prevents

coolant from circulating through the radiator.
As the engine nears normal operating tem-

perature, the thermostat opens and allows
hot coolant to travel through the radiator,

where it's cooled before returning to the
engine.

The cooling system is sealed by a pres-

sure-type cap, which raises the boiling point

of

the coolant and increases the cooling effi-

ciency of the system. If the system pressure
exceeds the cap pressure relief value, the
excess pressure in the system forces the
spring-loaded valve inside the cap off its seat
and allows the coolant to escape through the
overflow tube into a coolant reservoir. When

the system cools the excess coolant is auto-

matically drawn from the reservoir back into

the radiator.

The coolant reservoir does double duty

as both the point at which fresh coolant is
added to the cooling system to maintain the
proper fluid level and as a holding tank for

overheated coolant. This type of cooling sys-
tem is known as a closed design because
coolant that escapes past the pressure cap is
saved and reused.

Heating system

The heating system consists of a blower

fan and heater core located in the heater

housing, with hoses connecting the heater

core to the engine cooling system. Hot engine
coolant is circulated through the heater core.
When the heater mode on the heater/air con-
ditioning control panel on the instrument
panel is activated, a flap door opens to
expose the heater core to the passenger
compartment. A fan switch on the control
panel activates the blower motor, which
forces air through the core, heating the air.

Air conditioning system

The air conditioning system consists of

a condenser mounted in front of the radiator,
an evaporator mounted adjacent to the
heater core, a compressor mounted on the
engine, receiver/drier which contains a high
pressure relief valve and the plumbing con-
necting all of the above components.

A blower fan forces the warmer air of the

passenger compartment through the evapo-
rator core, transferring the heat from the air to
the refrigerant (sort of a "radiator in reverse").
The liquid refrigerant boils off into low pres-
sure vapor, taking the heat with it when it
leaves the evaporator.

3-2

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning system

THERMOSTAT HOUSING/

ENGINE OUTLET

CONNECTOR

3.10a Thermostat installation details - 2.0L four-cylinder engine

3.10b Thermostat installation details - 2.4L four-cylinder engine

3.10c Thermostat

installation details -

V6 engine

2

Antifreeze - general information

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come in
contact with your skin or painted surfaces of
the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with

plenty of water. Antifreeze is highly toxic if

ingested. Never leave antifreeze lying around
in an open container or in puddles on the
floor; children and pets are attracted by it's
sweet smell and may drink it. Antifreeze is
also flammable, so don't store or use it near
open flames. Check with local authorities
about disposing of used antifreeze. Many
communities have collection centers which
will see that antifreeze is disposed of safely.
Never dump used anti-freeze on the ground
or into drains.

Note: Non-Toxic coolant is available at local

auto parts stores. Although the coolant is
non-toxic when fresh, proper disposal is still
required.

The cooling system should be filled with

a water/ethylene glycol based antifreeze
solution, which will prevent freezing down to
at least 20 degrees F, or lower if local climate
requires it. It also provides protection against
corrosion and increases the coolant boiling
point.

The cooling system should be drained,

flushed and refilled at the specified intervals
(see Chapter 1). Old or contaminated
antifreeze solutions are likely to cause dam-
age and encourage the formation of rust and
scale in the system. Use distilled water with
the antifreeze.

Before adding antifreeze, check all hose

connections, because antifreeze tends to leak
through very minute openings. Engines don't
normally consume coolant, so if the level goes
down, find the cause and correct it.

The exact mixture of antifreeze-to-water

which you should use depends on the relative
weather conditions. The mixture should con-
tain at least 50 percent antifreeze, but should

never contain more than 70 percent anti-

freeze. Consult the mixture ratio chart on the

antifreeze container before adding coolant.
Hydrometers are available at most auto parts
stores to test the coolant. Use antifreeze that
meets the vehicle manufacturer's specifica-

tions.

3

Thermostat - check and
replacement

Warning: Do not remove the coolant tank
cap, drain the coolant or replace the thermo-
stat until the engine has cooled completely.

Check

1

Before assuming the thermostat is to

blame for a cooling system problem, check

the coolant level, drivebelt tension (see
Chapter 1) and temperature gauge operation.
2

If the engine seems to be taking a long

ti me to warm up (based on heater output or
temperature gauge operation), the thermostat

is probably stuck open. Replace the thermo-
stat with a new one.
3

If the engine runs hot, use your hand to

check the temperature of the upper radiator
hose. If the hose isn't hot, but the engine is,

the thermostat is probably stuck closed, pre-

venting the coolant inside the engine from
escaping to the radiator. Replace the thermo-
stat. Caution: Don't drive the vehicle without
a thermostat. The computer may stay in open
loop and emissions and fuel economy will
suffer.
4

If the upper radiator hose is hot, it

means that the coolant is flowing and the
thermostat is open. Consult the Trou-
bleshooting Section at the front of this man-
ual for cooling system diagnosis.

Replacement

Refer to illustrations 3.10a, 3.10b and 3.10c
5

Disconnect the negative battery cable

from the ground stud on the left shock tower

(see Chapter 5, section 1).
6

Drain the cooling system (see Chap-

ter 1). If the coolant is relatively new or in

good condition, save it and reuse it.
7

Follow the upper radiator hose to the

engine to locate the thermostat housing.
8

Loosen the hose clamp, then detach the

hose from the fitting. If it's stuck, grasp it
near the end with a pair of adjustable pliers
and twist it to break the seal, then pull it off. If
the hose is old or deteriorated, cut it off and
install a new one.
9

If the outer surface of the large fitting

that mates with the hose is deteriorated (cor-
roded, pitted, etc.) it may be damaged further
by hose removal. If it is, the thermostat hous-
ing cover will have to be replaced.

10

Remove the fasteners and detach the

housing cover (see illustrations). If the cover
is stuck, tap it with a soft-face hammer to jar
it loose. Be prepared for some coolant to spill
as the gasket seal is broken.

11

Note how it's installed (which end is fac-

ing up), then remove the thermostat.
12

Remove all traces of old gasket material

and sealant from the housing and cover with
a gasket scraper.

13

Using a new 0-ring, install the thermo-

stat on the housing, spring-end facing into the
engine block and the vent facing up. Install a
new gasket (if equipped) and place it on the

thermostat housing, lining up the bolt holes.

14 Install the cover and fasteners. Tighten
the fasteners to the torque listed in this
Chapter's Specifications.
15

Reattach the hose to the fitting and

tighten the hose clamp securely.
16

Refill the cooling system (see Chap-

ter 1).

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning system

3-3

4.1a The high-speed and low-speed fans are mounted in one

housing, with a harness connecting them to the

RFI module (arrow)

17

Start the engine and allow it to reach

normal operating temperature, then check for
leaks and proper thermostat operation (as
described in Steps 2 through 4). See Chap-
ter 1 for cooling system air-bleeding proce-
dure.

4.l b Disconnect the fan connector (arrow) and try operating the

fan with a fused battery-voltage jumper wire and a ground wire

4

Engine cooling fans and circuit -
check and replacement

Warning: To avoid possible injury or damage,
DO NOT operate the engine with a damaged
fan. Do not attempt to repair fan blades -
replace a damaged fan with a new one.

Note: Always be sure to check for blown

fuses before attempting to diagnose an elec-
trical circuit problem.

Check

Refer to illustrations 4.1a, 4. lb, 4.3, and 4.4
1

If the engine is overheating and the

cooling fan is not coming on, unplug the elec-
trical connector at the motor and use fused
jumper wires to connect the fan directly to
the battery. If the fan still doesn't work,
replace the motor. test each motor sepa-
rately. They are connected to an RFI module
(Radio Frequency Interference), with the low-
speed motor having a two-pin connector and

a three-pin connector on the high-speed fan
(see illustrations).
2

If the motor is OK, but the cooling fan

doesn't come on when the engine gets hot,
the fault may be in the coolant temperature
sensor in the thermostat housing, the fan
relays, the engine control computer or the
wiring which connects the components.
3

The engine coolant temperature sensor

is located in the thermostat housing and
varies resistance with temperature to signal

the PCM (see illustration). A test for check-

ing the sensor is found in Chapter 6.

4

Remove the fan relays (one low-speed

and one high-speed relay) from the Power

Distribution Center. Using an ohmmeter,
measure the resistance between terminals A

and C of the relay (see illustration), it should
read approximately 75 ohms. Check for con-
tinuity between terminals B and D, there
should be no continuity. Using fused jumper
wires, apply battery voltage (+) to terminal A
and ground (-) terminal C; the relay should
"click" and continuity should be indicated
between terminals B and D.
5

Carefully check all wiring and connec-

tions (wiring diagrams are included at the end
of Chapter 12). If no obvious problems are

found, further diagnosis should be done by a

dealer service department or repair shop with

the proper diagnostic equipment.

4.3 The coolant temperature sensor

(arrow) is located at the front of the

engine, next to the thermostat

Replacement

Refer to illustrations 4.7, 4.8a, 4.8b, 4.9 and
4.10
6

Disconnect the negative battery cable

from the ground stud on the left shock tower
(see Chapter 5, Section 1). Disconnect the
fan motor electrical connector (see illustra-
tion 4.1a).
7

Remove the upper radiator crossmem-

ber, either detaching the four bolts and laying

4.4 Cooling fan relay terminal guide - there should be continuity

between A and C, and no continuity between B and D unless

battery power is applied to A and ground applied to C

4.7 Remove the four bolts and the isolators on the upper radiator

crossmember (arrows) - if necessary, remove the bolts securing

the shroud and remove the shroud

3-4

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning system

4.8a Remove the fan shroud mounting bolts (arrows)

4.8b Detach the wire harness from the shroud

it aside, or also removing the two bolts to the
latch and removing the crossmember entirely
(see illustration).
8

Remove the fan shroud mounting bolts,

detach the clips at the top and bottom of the
shroud with a small screwdriver, detach the
wire harness clips from the shroud, then
carefully lift the fan assembly out of the
engine compartment (see illustrations).
Note: It is easier to remove the fan assembly
if the upper radiator hose is disconnected first
from the radiator.
9

To detach the fan blade from the motor,

remove the nut or retaining clip from the
motor shaft (see illustration). Remove the
fan blade from the motor.
10

To detach the motor from the shroud,

remove the retaining nuts or screws (see
illustration). Remove the motor from the
shroud.
11

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Note: When reinstalling the fan assembly,

make sure the rubber air shields around the
assembly are still in place - without them, the
cooling system may not work efficiently.

5

Radiator and coolant reservoir -

removal and installation

Warning: Wait until the engine is completely
cool before beginning this procedure.

Radiator

Removal

Refer to illustration 5.6

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable

from the ground stud on the left shock tower
(see Chapter 5, Section 1).
2

Drain the cooling system (see Chap-

ter 1). If the coolant is relatively new and in
good condition, save it and reuse it.
3

Remove the upper radiator crossmem-

ber and cooling fan assembly (see Section 4).
4

Disconnect the overflow hose from the

radiator filler neck.
5

Loosen the hose clamps, then detach

the upper and lower coolant hoses from the
radiator. If they're stuck, grasp each hose

4.9 The fan blade is retained to the motor

with either a nut or a clip (arrow)

near the end with a pair of adjustable pliers
and twist it to break the seal, then pull it off -
be careful not to distort the radiator fittings! If
the hoses are old or deteriorated, cut them
off and install new ones.
6

Disconnect and plug the transmission

fluid cooler lines (see illustration).
7

Remove the two upper radiator-to-body

mounting bolts. At this point, if the vehicle is
equipped with air conditioning, there are two
ways to remove the radiator. If the condenser
is staying in the vehicle, remove the four con-
denser-to-radiator mounting screws (acces-
sible through the lower openings in the front
of the body) and the one screw in the air con-
ditioning line on the passenger side, and the
radiator can be pulled up. Note: Make sure
the rubber radiator insulators (they fit on the

bottom of the radiator and into sockets in the
body) remain in place in the body for proper
reinstallation of the radiator.
8

If the condenser is being removed (and

the air conditioning system has already been
evacuated of refrigerant), disconnect the
condenser lines (see Section 15) and remove
the radiator and condenser as a unit, separat-

ing the two components outside of the vehi-

cle where the fasteners are easier to get at.
Warning: The air conditioning system is
under high pressure. Do not loosen any hose

4.10 To remove the fan motor from the

shroud, remove the three screws (arrows)

fittings or remove any components until after
the system has been discharged by a dealer
service department or service station. Always
wear eye protection when disconnecting air
conditioning system fittings.
9

Carefully lift out the radiator. Don't spill

coolant on the vehicle or scratch the paint.
10

Check the radiator for leaks and dam-

age. If it needs repair, have a radiator shop or

5.6 Detach the transmission cooler lines

Chapter 3 Cooling,

heating and air conditioning system

3-5

5.18 Remove the mounting bolt and

remove the coolant reservoir from the

vehicle for cleaning or replacement

dealer service department perform the work,
as special techniques are required.

11

Remove bugs and dirt from the radiator

with compressed air and a soft brush (don't
bend the cooling fins).

Installation

12 Inspect the radiator mounts for deterio-
ration and ensure they are clean of dirt or
gravel when the radiator is installed.
13 Installation is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Make sure the radiator is properly
seated on the lower mounting insulators
before fastening the top brackets.
14

After installation, fill the cooling system

with the proper mixture of antifreeze and
water (see Chapter 1).
15

Start the engine and check for leaks.

Allow the engine to reach normal operating
temperature, indicated by the upper radiator
hose becoming hot. Recheck the coolant
level and add more if required.
16 If you're working on an automatic
transaxle equipped vehicle, check and add
fluid as needed.

Coolant reservoir

Refer to illustration 5.18
17

Detach the hoses at the reservoir. Plug

the hoses to prevent leakage.

18

Remove the reservoir retaining bolt and

lift the reservoir out of the engine compart-
ment (see illustration).
19 Installation is the reverse of removal.

While the reservoir is off the vehicle, it should

be cleaned with soapy water and a brush to
remove any deposits inside.

6

Water pump - check

1

A failure in the water pump can cause

serious engine damage due to overheating.
2

There are three ways to check the oper-

ation of the water pump while it's installed on
the engine. If the pump is defective, it should

be replaced with a new or rebuilt unit.

3

Water pumps are equipped with weep

or vent holes. If a failure occurs in the pump
seal, coolant will leak from the hole. In most
cases you'll need a flashlight to find the hole
on the water pump from underneath to check
for leaks. Note: Some small black staining
around the weep hole is normal. If the stain is
heavy brown or actual coolant is evident,
replace the pump.
4

If the water pump shaft bearings fail

there may be a howling sound at the front of
the engine while it's running. With the engine
off, shaft wear can be felt if the water pump
pulley is rocked up-and-down. Don't mistake
drivebelt slippage, which causes a squealing
sound, for water pump bearing failure.
5

A quick water pump performance check

is to put the heater on. If the pump is failing, it
won't be able to efficiently circulate hot water
all the way to the heater core as it should.

7

Water pump - replacement

Four-cylinder engines

Refer to illustration 7.12
1

Disconnect the negative battery cable

from the ground stud on the left shock tower

(see Chapter 5, Section 1).
2

Raise the vehicle and support it securely

on jackstands.
3

Remove the right inner splash shield

(see Chapter 11).
4

Remove the drivebelts (see Chapter 1).

5

Drain the cooling system (see Chap-

ter 1).
6

Using a floorjack (with a wood block

placed between the jackhead and the oil pan
to prevent engine damage), support the
engine from underneath and remove the right
engine mount.
7

Remove the power steering pump

bracket bolts and move the power steering
pump and bracket aside. The power steering
li nes do not have to be disconnected.
8

Remove the right engine mount bracket

(see Chapter 2).
9

Remove the timing belt (see Chapter 2).

10

Remove the inner timing belt cover (see

Chapter 2).
11

Remove the bolts attaching the water

pump to the engine block and remove the
pump.
12 Install a new 0-ring in the water pump
body groove (see illustration).
13 Installation is the reversal of removal.

Tighten the mounting bolts to the torque

li sted in this Chapter's specifications.
14

Reinstall the pulleys and drive belts and

check for tension (see Chapter 1).

15

Refill the cooling system (see Chap-

ter 1). Run the engine and check for leaks.

V6 engine

Refer to illustrations 7.18 and 7.21

16

Disconnect the negative battery cable

from the ground stud on the left shock tower
(see Chapter 5, Section 1). Remove the drive-
belts and drain the cooling system (see
Chapter 1).

17

Refer to Chapter 2, Part B and remove

the crankshaft damper/pulley, timing belt
covers and timing belt.

18

Remove the water pump mounting bolts

(see illustration).
19

Separate the pump from the water inlet

pipe and remove the pump.
20

Clean all the gasket and 0-ring surfaces

on the pump and the water pipe inlet tube.
21

Install a new 0-ring on the water inlet

3

7.18 Remove the water pump bolts (arrows) - V6 engine

7.12 Install a new 0-ring onto the water pump