Ford Orion. Manual — part 22

Zetec engine

Cylinder head

Maximum permissible gasket surface distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.10 mm

Valve seat included angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

90º

Valve guide bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6.060 to 6.091 mm

Valves - general

Inlet

Exhaust

Valve lift . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7.500 to 7.685 mm

7.610 to 7.765 mm

Valve length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

96.870 to 97.330 mm

96.470 to 96.930 mm

Valve head diameter:

1.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

26.0 mm

24.5 mm

1.8 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

32.0 mm

28.0 mm

Valve stem diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6.028 to 6.043 mm

6.010 to 6.025 mm

Valve stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.017 to 0.064 mm

0.035 to 0.081 mm

Cylinder block

Cylinder bore diameter:

1.6 litre engine:

Class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

76.000 to 76.010 mm

Class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

76.010 to 76.020 mm

Class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

76.020 to 76.030 mm

1.8 litre engine:

Class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80.600 to 80.610 mm

Class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80.610 to 80.620 mm

Class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80.620 to 80.630 mm

Pistons and piston rings

Piston diameter

1.6 litre engine:

Class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

75.975 to 75.985 mm

Class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

75.985 to 75.995 mm

Class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

75.995 to 76.005 mm

1.8 litre engine:

Class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80.570 to 80.580 mm

Class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80.580 to 80.590 mm

Class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80.590 to 80.600 mm

Oversizes - all engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

None available

Piston-to-cylinder bore clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

No information available at time of writing

Piston ring end gaps - installed:

Compression rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.30 to 0.50 mm

Oil control ring:

1.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.25 to 1.00 mm

1.8 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.38 to 1.14 mm

Gudgeon pin

Diameter:

White colour code/piston crown marked “A” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20.622 to 20.625 mm

Red colour code/piston crown marked “B” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20.625 to 20.628 mm

Blue colour code/piston crown marked “C” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20.628 to 20.631 mm

Clearance in piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.010 to 0.016 mm

Connecting rod small-end eye internal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20.589 to 20.609 mm

Interference fit in connecting rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.011 to 0.042 mm

Crankshaft and bearings

Main bearing shell standard inside diameter - installed . . . . . . . . . . . . .

58.011 to 58.038 mm

Main bearing journal standard diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

57.980 to 58.000 mm

Main bearing journal-to-shell running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.011 to 0.058 mm

Main bearing shell undersizes available . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.02 mm, 0.25 mm

Big-end bearing shell standard inside diameter - installed . . . . . . . . . .

46.926 to 46.960 mm

Crankpin (big-end) bearing journal standard diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

46.890 to 46.910 mm

Crankpin (big-end) bearing journal-to-shell running clearance . . . . . . .

0.016 to 0.070 mm

Big-end bearing shell undersizes available . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.02 mm, 0.25 mm

Crankshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.090 to 0.310 mm

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2D•5

2D

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Main bearing cap bolts and nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80

59

Big-end bearing cap bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

18

13

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Angle-tighten a further 90º

Piston-cooling oil jet/blanking plug Torx screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Cylinder block and head oilway blanking plugs:

M6 x 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8 to 11

6 to 8

M10 x 11.5 - in block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

24

17

1/4 PTF plug - in block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

18

Power steering pump/air conditioning compressor mounting bracket-to-
cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

47

35

Exhaust manifold heat shield mounting bracket-to-cylinder block bolts

32

24

Crankcase breather system:

Oil separator-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Pipe-to-cylinder head bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

23

17

Transmission-to-engine bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

40

30

Engine/transmission mountings:

Right-hand mounting-to-cylinder block bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

102 to 138

75 to 102

Right-hand mounting bracket-to-cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

76 to 104

56 to 77

Right-hand mounting brace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

58 to 79

43 to 58

Right-hand mounting-to-body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

70 to 97

51 to 71

Left-hand rear mounting bracket-to-transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

41 to 58

30 to 43

Left-hand rear mounting bracket-to-mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

58 to 79

43 to 58

Left-hand front mounting bracket-to-mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

58 to 79

43 to 58

Left-hand front mounting-to-bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

41 to 58

30 to 43

Note: Refer to Part C of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.

2D•6 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

1

General information

How to use this Chapter

This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to

engine/transmission removal and refitting, to
those repair procedures requiring the removal
of the engine/transmission from the vehicle,
and to the overhaul of engine components. It
includes only the Specifications relevant to
those procedures. Refer to Parts A, B and C
for additional Specifications, if required.

General information

The information ranges from advice

concerning preparation for an overhaul and
the purchase of replacement parts, to detailed
step-by-step procedures covering removal
and installation of internal engine components
and the inspection of parts.

The following Sections have been written

based on the assumption that the engine has
been removed from the vehicle. For
information concerning in-vehicle engine
repair, as well as removal and installation of
the external components necessary for the
overhaul, see Parts A, B and C of this
Chapter, and Section 7 of this Part.

When overhauling the engine, it is essential

to establish first exactly what replacement
parts are available. On some of the engines
covered in this Chapter, components such as
the piston rings are not available separately
from the piston/connecting rod assemblies;
pistons, gudgeon pins and valve guides may
also not be available separately, as may some

under- or oversized components. In some
cases, depending on the extent of engine
wear, it would appear that the easiest and
most economically-sensible course of action
is to replace a worn or damaged engine with
an exchange unit.

2

Engine overhaul -
general information

It’s not always easy to determine when, or

if, an engine should be completely
overhauled, as a number of factors must be
considered.

High mileage is not necessarily an

indication that an overhaul is needed, while
low mileage doesn’t preclude the need for an
overhaul. Frequency of servicing is probably
the most important consideration. An engine
that’s had regular and frequent oil and filter
changes, as well as other required
maintenance, will most likely give many
thousands of miles of reliable service.
Conversely, a neglected engine may require
an overhaul very early in its life.

Excessive oil consumption is an indication

that piston rings, valve seals and/or valve
guides are in need of attention. Make sure
that oil leaks aren’t responsible before
deciding that the rings and/or guides are
worn. Perform a cylinder compression check
to determine the extent of the work required.

Loss of power, rough running, knocking or

metallic engine noises, excessive valve train
noise and high fuel consumption rates may
also point to the need for an overhaul,
especially if they’re all present at the same

time. If a full service doesn’t remedy the
situation, major mechanical work is the only
solution.

An engine overhaul involves restoring all

internal parts to the specification of a new
engine. Note: Always check first what
replacement parts are available before
planning any overhaul operation; refer to
Section 1. Ford dealers, or a good engine
reconditioning specialist/automotive parts
supplier may be able to suggest alternatives
which will enable you to overcome the lack of
replacement parts.

During an overhaul, it is usual to renew the

piston rings, and to rebore and/or hone the
cylinder bores; where the rebore is done by an
automotive machine shop, new oversize
pistons and rings will also be installed - all
these operations, of course, assume the
availability of suitable replacement parts. The
main and big-end bearings are generally
renewed and, if necessary, the crankshaft may
be reground to restore the journals. Generally,
the valves are serviced as well, since they’re
usually in less-than-perfect condition at this
point. While the engine is being overhauled,
other components, such as the starter and
alternator, can be renewed as well, or rebuilt, if
the necessary parts can be found. The end
result should be an as-new engine that will
give many trouble-free miles. Note: Critical
cooling system components such as the
hoses, drivebelt, thermostat and water pump
MUST be replaced with new parts when an
engine is overhauled. The radiator should be
checked carefully, to ensure that it isn’t
clogged or leaking (see Chapter 3). Also, as a
general rule, the oil pump should be renewed
when an engine is rebuilt.

Before beginning the engine overhaul, read

through the entire procedure to familiarise
yourself with the scope and requirements of
the job. Overhauling an engine isn’t difficult,
but it is time-consuming. Plan on the vehicle
being off the road for a minimum of two
weeks, especially if parts must be taken to an
automotive machine shop for repair or recon-
ditioning. Check on availability of parts, and
make sure that any necessary special tools
and equipment are obtained in advance. Most
work can be done with typical hand tools,
although a number of precision measuring
tools are required, for inspecting parts to
determine if they must be replaced. Often, an
automotive machine shop will handle the
inspection of parts, and will offer advice
concerning reconditioning and replacement.
Note: Always wait until the engine has been
completely dismantled, and all components,
especially the cylinder block/crankcase, have
been inspected, before deciding what service
and repair operations must be performed by
an automotive machine shop. Since the
block’s condition will be the major factor to
consider when determining whether to
overhaul the original engine or buy a rebuilt
one, never purchase parts or have machine
work done on other components until the
cylinder block/crankcase has been thoroughly
inspected. As a general rule, time is the
primary cost of an overhaul, so it doesn’t pay
to install worn or sub-standard parts.

As a final note, to ensure maximum life and

minimum trouble from a rebuilt engine,
everything must be assembled with care, in a
spotlessly-clean environment.

3

Engine removal -
methods and precautions

If you’ve decided that an engine must be

removed for overhaul or major repair work,
several preliminary steps should be taken.

Locating a suitable place to work is

extremely important. Adequate work space,
along with storage space for the vehicle, will
be needed. If a workshop or garage isn’t
available, at the very least, a flat, level, clean
work surface made of concrete or asphalt is
required.

Cleaning the engine compartment and

engine/transmission before beginning the
removal procedure will help keep tools clean
and organised.

On two of the engines covered in this

manual, the unit can only be withdrawn by
removing it complete with the transmission;
the vehicle’s body must be raised and
supported securely, sufficiently high that the
engine/transmission can be unbolted as a
single unit and lowered to the ground; the
engine/transmission unit can then be
withdrawn from under the vehicle and
separated. On all engines, an engine hoist or
A-frame will be necessary. Make sure the

equipment is rated in excess of the combined
weight of the engine and transmission. Safety
is of primary importance, considering the
potential hazards involved in removing the
engine/transmission from the vehicle.

If this is the first time you have removed an

engine, a helper should ideally be available.
Advice and aid from someone more
experienced would also be helpful. There are
many instances when one person cannot
simultaneously perform all of the operations
required when removing the engine/
transmission from the vehicle.

Plan the operation ahead of time. Arrange

for, or obtain, all of the tools and equipment
you’ll need prior to beginning the job. Some of
the equipment necessary to perform
engine/transmission removal and installation
safely and with relative ease, and which may
have to be hired or borrowed, includes (in
addition to the engine hoist) a heavy-duty
trolley jack, a strong pair of axle stands, some
wooden blocks, and an engine dolly (a low,
wheeled platform capable of taking the weight
of the engine/transmission, so that it can be
moved easily when on the ground). A
complete set of spanners and sockets (as
described in “Tools and working facilities” at
the rear of this manual) will obviously be
needed, together with plenty of rags and
cleaning solvent for mopping-up spilled oil,
coolant and fuel. If the hoist is to be hired,
make sure that you arrange for it in advance,
and perform all of the operations possible
without it beforehand. This will save you
money and time.

Plan for the vehicle to be out of use for

quite a while. A machine shop will be required
to perform some of the work which the
do-it-yourselfer can’t accomplish without
special equipment. These establishments
often have a busy schedule, so it would be a
good idea to consult them before removing
the engine, to accurately estimate the amount
of time required to rebuild or repair
components that may need work.

Always be extremely careful when removing

and installing the engine/transmission.
Serious injury can result from careless
actions. By planning ahead and taking your
time, the job (although a major task) can be
accomplished successfully.

4

Engine - removal and refitting
(HCS engine)

3

Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when disconnecting
any part of the fuel system. Don’t

smoke, or allow naked flames or bare light
bulbs, in or near the work area, and don’t
work in a garage where a natural-gas
appliance (such as a clothes dryer or water
heater) is installed. If you spill petrol on
your skin, rinse it off immediately. Have a
fire extinguisher rated for petrol fires
handy, and know how to use it.

Note: Read through the entire Section, as well
as reading the advice in the preceding
Section, before beginning this procedure. The
engine is removed separately from the
transmission and is lifted upwards and out of
the engine compartment.

Removal

1 On fuel-injected engines, refer to Chap-
ter 4B and depressurise the fuel system.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
3 Referring to Chapter 1 for details, drain the
coolant and engine oil. Refit the drain plug to
the sump on completion.
4 Remove the bonnet as described in
Chapter 11. Position it out of the way in a safe
place where it will not get damaged.
5 Remove the air cleaner unit as described in
Chapter 4.
6 Release the retaining clips and detach the
following coolant hoses. Allow for coolant
spillage as the hoses are detached, note their
routing, and position them out of the way (see
illustrations):
a)

All hoses at the thermostat housing.

b)

Bottom hose from the radiator to the
water pump.

c)

Heater hoses at the bulkhead and water
pump.

d)

Inlet manifold coolant supply hose (where
applicable).

7 Disconnect the fuel trap vacuum hose from
the inlet manifold.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2D•7

4.6B Disconnect the bottom hose (A) and

the heater hose (B) from the water pump

4.6A Disconnect the overflow hose (A) and

the top hose (B) from the thermostat

housing

2D

8 Disconnect the brake servo unit vacuum
hose from the inlet manifold, by pushing the
hose retainer in towards the manifold and
simultaneously pulling free the hose (see
illustration).
9 Refer to Chapter 4 for details, and
detach the accelerator cable. Where
applicable, detach the choke cable from the
carburettor.
10 Compress the quick-release couplings at
the sides, and detach the fuel supply hose
and return hose from the fuel pump or CFi unit
(see illustration). Allow for fuel spillage as the
hoses are disconnected, and plug the
exposed ends to prevent further spillage and
the ingress of dirt. Position the hoses out of
the way.
11 Note their locations and disconnect the

wiring connectors from the following (see
illustrations):
a)

Coolant temperature gauge sender unit.

b)

The oil pressure switch.

c)

The radio earth lead.

d)

The cooling fan thermostatic switch.

e)

The DIS ignition coil.

f)

The crankshaft speed/position sensor.

g)

The engine coolant temperature sensor.

h)

The idle cut-off valve.

12 Apply the handbrake, then raise the
vehicle at the front end and support it on axle
stands.
13 Unscrew the retaining nuts, and detach the
exhaust downpipe from the exhaust manifold.
Remove the seal from the joint flange.
14 Refer to Chapter 5 for details, and remove
the starter motor.

15 Undo the two retaining bolts, and remove
the clutch lower cover plate.
16 Unscrew the retaining bolt, and detach
the gearshift stabiliser from the transmission.
17 Unscrew and remove the engine/
transmission flange attachment bolts and also
the bolt fitted from the front, securing the earth
lead (from the underside) (see illustration).
18 Unscrew and remove the single bolt
securing the engine mounting brace to the
crossmember (see illustration).
19 Check that the appropriate underside
attachments are disconnected and out of the
way, then lower the vehicle to the ground.
20 Unbolt and remove the heat shield from
the exhaust manifold.
21 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine. It is
possible to fabricate lifting eyes to connect
the hoist to the engine, but make sure that
they are strong enough, and connect them to
the inlet and exhaust manifold at diagonally-
opposite ends of the engine (see illustration).
22 With the hoist securely connected, take
the weight of the engine, then unscrew the
two retaining nuts to detach the engine
mounting from the apron panel, and the single
bolt to disconnect it at the mounting bracket
(see illustration).

2D•8 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

4.22 Detach the engine mounting fixing at

the points indicated

A Front apron panel bracket nuts
B Mounting bracket
C Bolt-to-engine bracket

4.21 Engine lifter and attachment

points (A) and M8 x 35 bolt location (B)

4.18 Mounting brace-to-crossmember bolt

(arrowed)

4.17 Engine-to-transmission flange

attachment bolts (arrowed)

4.11B Engine crankshaft speed/position

sensor and multi-plug

4.11A Wiring connections to the

HCS engine

A Idle cut-off valve
B DIS ignition coil
C Engine coolant temperature sensor
D Oil pressure switch

4.10 Fuel supply (A) and return (B) hose

connections at the fuel pump

4.8 Detach the servo vacuum hose from

the manifold