Ford Orion. Manual — part 20

and discard the gasket, and remove the
crankshaft right-hand oil seal. Thoroughly
clean and degrease all components,
particularly the mating surfaces of the pump,
the sump, and the cylinder block/crankcase.

Inspection

6 Unscrew the Torx screws, and remove the
pump cover plate; noting any identification
marks on the rotors, withdraw the rotors (see
illustration).
7 Inspect the rotors for obvious signs of wear
or damage, and renew if necessary; if either
rotor, the pump body, or its cover plate are
scored or damaged, the complete oil pump
assembly must be renewed.

8 The oil pressure relief valve can be
dismantled, if required, without disturbing the
pump. With the vehicle parked on firm level
ground, apply the handbrake securely and
raise its front end, supporting it securely on
axle stands. Remove the front right-hand
roadwheel and auxiliary drivebelt cover (see
Chapter 1) to provide access to the valve.
9 Unscrew the threaded plug, and recover
the valve spring and plunger (see
illustrations). If the plug’s sealing O-ring is
worn or damaged, a new one must be
obtained, to be fitted on reassembly.
10 Reassembly is the reverse of the
dismantling procedure; ensure the spring and
valve are refitted the correct way round, and
tighten the threaded plug securely.

Refitting

11 The oil pump must be primed on
installation, by pouring clean engine oil into it,
and rotating its inner rotor a few turns.
12 Using grease to stick the new gasket in
place on the cylinder block/crankcase, and
rotating the pump’s inner rotor to align with
the flats on the crankshaft, refit the pump and
insert the bolts, tightening them lightly at first
(see illustration).
13 Using a suitable straight edge and feeler
gauges, check that the pump is both centred
exactly around the crankshaft, and aligned
squarely so that its (sump) mating surface is
exactly the same amount - between 0.3 and
0.8 mm - below that of the cylinder
block/crankcase on each side of the

crankshaft

(see illustration). Being careful

not to disturb the gasket, move the pump into
the correct position, and tighten its bolts to
the specified torque wrench setting.
14 Check that the pump is correctly located;
if necessary, unbolt it again, and repeat the
full procedure to ensure that the pump is
correctly aligned.
15 Fit a new crankshaft right-hand oil seal
(see Section 17).
16 Using grease to stick the gasket in place
on the pump, refit the pick-up/strainer pipe,
tightening its screws and nut to their specified
torque wrench settings (see illustration).
17 The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, referring to
the relevant text for details where required.

17 Crankshaft oil seals -

renewal

4

Note: Don’t try to prise these seals out without
removing the oil pump or seal carrier - the
seals are too soft, and the amount of space
available is too small, for this to be possible
without considerable risk of damage to the seal
housing and/or the crankshaft journal. Follow
exactly the procedure given below.

Right-hand seal

1 Remove the oil pump (see Section 16).
2 Drive the oil seal out of the pump from
behind (see illustration).

2C•18 Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures

17.2 Driving out crankshaft right-hand oil

seal

16.16 Use new gasket when refitting oil

pick-up pipe to pump

16.13 Oil pump must be centred on

crankshaft, and square to cylinder block/

crankcase-to-sump mating surface - use
straight edge and feeler gauges to check

that pump surface is an equal amount

(within permissible limits) below crankcase

surface on both sides of crankshaft

16.12 Use new gasket when refitting oil

pump

16.9B . . . to withdraw oil pressure relief

valve spring and plunger

16.9A Unscrew threaded plug - seen

through right-hand wheel arch . . .

16.6 Withdrawing oil pump inner rotor

3 Clean the seal housing and crankshaft,
polishing off any burrs or raised edges, which
may have caused the seal to fail in the first
place.
4 Refit the oil pump (see Section 16). Grease
the lips and periphery of the new seal, to ease
installation.
5 To fit a new seal, Ford recommend the use
of their service tool 21-093A, with the
crankshaft pulley bolt, to draw the seal into
place; an alternative can be arranged using a
socket of suitable size, with a washer to
match the crankshaft pulley bolt (see
illustration).
6 If such tools are not available, press the

seal squarely into place by hand; tap it in until
it is flush with the pump housing, using a soft-
faced mallet and a socket with an outside
diameter only slightly smaller than the seal’s
(see illustration). This approach requires
great care, to ensure that the seal is fitted
squarely, without distortion or damage.
7 Wash off any traces of oil. The remainder of
reassembly is the reverse of the removal
procedure, referring to the relevant text for
details where required. Check for signs of oil
leakage when the engine is restarted.

Left-hand seal

8 Remove the transmission (see the relevant
Part of Chapter 7).
9 Where appropriate, remove the clutch
(Chapter 8).
10 Unbolt the flywheel/driveplate (see
Section 18).
11 Remove the sump (see Section 15).
12 Unbolt the oil seal carrier (see
illustration). Remove and discard its gasket.
13 Supporting the carrier evenly on wooden
blocks, drive the oil seal out of the carrier from
behind (see illustration).
14 Clean the seal housing and crankshaft,
polishing off any burrs or raised edges, which
may have caused the seal to fail in the first

place. Clean also the mating surfaces of the
cylinder block/crankcase and carrier, using a
scraper to remove all traces of the old gasket
- be careful not to scratch or damage the
material of either - then use a suitable solvent
to degrease them.
15 Use grease to stick the new gasket in
place on the cylinder block/crankcase, then
offer up the carrier (see illustration).
16 Using a suitable straight edge and feeler
gauges, check that the carrier is both centred
exactly around the crankshaft, and aligned
squarely so that its (sump) mating surface is
exactly the same amount - between 0.3 and
0.8 mm - below that of the cylinder
block/crankcase on each side of the
crankshaft. Being careful not to disturb the
gasket, move the carrier into the correct
position, and tighten its bolts to the specified
torque wrench setting (see illustration).
17 Check that the carrier is correctly located;
if necessary, unbolt it again, and repeat the
full procedure to ensure that the carrier is
correctly aligned.
18 Ford’s recommended method of seal
fitting is to use service tool 21-141, with two
flywheel bolts to draw the seal into place. If
this is not available, make up a guide from a
thin sheet of plastic or similar, lubricate the
lips of the new seal and the crankshaft
shoulder with grease, then offer up the seal,
with the guide feeding the seal’s lips over the
crankshaft shoulder (see illustration). Press

Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2C•19

17.12 Unscrew bolts (arrowed) to remove

crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier . . .

17.13 . . . and ensure that carrier is

properly supported when driving out used

oil seal - note notches provided in carrier

for drift

17.6 If seal is tapped into place as shown,

exercise great care to prevent seal from

being damaged or distorted

17.5 Socket of correct size can be used to

replace Ford service tool, drawing new

seal into place as described

17.18 Using guide made from thin sheet of

plastic to slide oil seal lips over crankshaft

shoulder

17.16 Oil seal carrier must be centred on
crankshaft, and square to cylinder block/

crankcase-to-sump mating surface - use
straight edge and feeler gauges to check

that carrier surface is an equal amount

(within permissible limits) below crankcase

surface on both sides of crankshaft

17.15 Use new gasket when refitting left-

hand oil seal carrier

2C

the seal evenly into its housing by hand only,
and use a soft-faced mallet gently to tap it
into place until it is flush with the surrounding
housing.
19 Wipe off any surplus oil or grease; the
remainder of the reassembly procedure is the
reverse of dismantling, referring to the
relevant text for details where required. Check
for signs of oil leakage when the engine is
restarted.

18 Flywheel/driveplate -

removal, inspection and
refitting

3

Removal

1 Remove the transmission (see the relevant
Part of Chapter 7). Now is a good time to
check components such as oil seals, and
renew them if necessary.
2 Where appropriate, remove the clutch
(Chapter 8). Now is a good time to check or
renew the clutch components and pilot
bearing.
3 Use a centre-punch or paint to make
alignment marks on the flywheel/driveplate
and crankshaft, to ensure correct alignment
during refitting.
4 Prevent the flywheel/driveplate from turning
by locking the ring gear teeth, or by bolting a
strap between the flywheel/driveplate and the
cylinder block/crankcase. Slacken the bolts
evenly until all are free.
5 Remove each bolt in turn, and ensure that
new replacements are obtained for
reassembly; these bolts are subjected to
severe stresses, and so must be renewed,
regardless of their apparent condition,
whenever they are disturbed.
6 Noting the reinforcing plate (automatic
transmission models only), withdraw the
flywheel/driveplate; do not drop it - it is very
heavy.

Inspection

7 Clean the flywheel/driveplate to remove
grease and oil. Inspect the surface for cracks,
rivet grooves, burned areas and score marks.
Light scoring can be removed with emery

cloth. Check for cracked and broken ring gear
teeth. Lay the flywheel/driveplate on a flat
surface, and use a straight edge to check for
warpage.
8 Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of
the flywheel/driveplate and the crankshaft. If
the crankshaft left-hand seal is leaking, renew
it (see Section 17) before refitting the
flywheel/driveplate.
9 While the flywheel/driveplate is removed,
clean carefully its inboard (right-hand) face,
particularly the recesses which serve as the
reference points for the crankshaft
speed/position sensor. Clean the sensor’s tip,
and check that the sensor is securely
fastened.

Refitting

10 On refitting, ensure that the
engine/transmission adapter plate is in place
(where necessary), then fit the
flywheel/driveplate to the crankshaft so that
all bolt holes align - it will fit only one way -
check this using the marks made on removal.
Do not forget the reinforcing plate (automatic
transmission models).
11 Lock the flywheel/driveplate by the
method used on dismantling. Working in a
diagonal sequence to tighten them evenly,
and increasing to the final amount in two or
three stages, tighten the new bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting (see
illustration).
12 The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, referring to
the relevant text for details where required.

19 Engine/transmission

mountings - inspection and
renewal

1

General

1 The engine/transmission mountings seldom
require attention, but broken or deteriorated
mountings should be renewed immediately, or
the added strain placed on the driveline
components may cause damage or wear.
2 The mounting arrangement varies
considerably depending on whether manual

or automatic transmission is fitted, and if
manual transmission is fitted, whether it is the
BC type or MTX-75 type. This also has a
significant bearing on the amount of
peripheral dismantling necessary for access
to the mountings, which will have to be
assessed according to model.

Inspection

3 During the check, the engine/transmission
must be raised slightly, to remove its weight
from the mountings.
4 Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands. Position a jack under
the sump, with a large block of wood between
the jack head and the sump, then carefully
raise the engine/transmission just enough to
take the weight off the mountings.

Warning: DO NOT place any part
of your body under the engine
when it is supported only by a
jack!

5 Check the mountings to see if the rubber is
cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal components. Sometimes, the rubber
will split right down the centre.
6 Check for relative movement between each
mounting’s brackets and the engine/
transmission or body (use a large screwdriver
or lever to attempt to move the mountings). If
movement is noted, lower the engine and
check-tighten the mounting fasteners.

Renewal

Left-hand front mounting

7 Position a jack under the transmission, with
a block of wood between the jack head and
the sump. Raise the jack to just take the
weight off the mounting.
8 Undo the two bolts securing the mounting
to the body side member, and the two bolts
securing the mounting to the transmission
bracket (see illustration). Withdraw the
mounting from its location.
9 Refitting is the reversal of removal,
tightening the retaining bolts to the specified
torque.

Left-hand rear mounting

10 Remove the air cleaner unit as described
in Chapter 4B.

2C•20 Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures

19.12 Engine/transmission left-hand rear

mounting and mounting bracket

attachments

19.8 Engine/transmission left-hand front

mounting attachments

18.11 Note “peg” tool used to lock

flywheel/driveplate while (new) bolts are

tightened

11 Position a jack under the transmission,
with a block of wood between the jack head
and the transmission. Raise the jack to just
take the weight off the mounting.
12 Undo the nuts and bolts securing the
mounting brackets to the top of the
transmission and to the mounting itself (see
illustration). Remove the mounting brackets
from the transmission.
13 Undo the two bolts, one from above and
one from below, securing the mounting to the
body. Remove the mounting from under the
brake servo unit.
14 Refitting is the reversal of removal, tightening
the retaining bolts to the specified torque.

Right-hand mounting

15 Raise the front of the vehicle, and
securely support it on axle stands. For
preference, raise the car on ramps.
16 Drain the engine oil, and remove the oil
filter (see Chapter 1).

17 Undo the two upper bolts and one lower
bolt and remove the mounting support brace.
18 Undo the two upper nuts securing the
mounting to the body (see illustration).
19 Undo the two lower nuts securing the
mounting to the engine bracket (see

illustration). Manipulate the mounting,
complete with damper weight, out from under
the car.
20 Refitting is the reversal of removal,
tightening the retaining nuts and bolts to the
specified torque.

Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2C•21

19.19 Engine right-hand mounting-to-

engine bracket retaining bolts (arrowed)

19.18 Engine right-hand mounting-to-body

retaining nuts

2C